Easton Axis Broadhead Alignment
Equipment
Hey guys-- This year decided to switch to Easton Axis 5mm Match Grade arrows. Really like them and have shot a lot this summer. I shoot fixed blade broadheads but really have an issue with proper alignment. I can hardly get even one arrow out of a dozen to spin properly. The way those inserts seat, its hard to believe they couldn't be aligned parallel to the shaft. The broadheads are brand new (VPA). Any ideas?
First rule out the broadheads. VPA for me hasn’t been particularly impressive for me. I bought two packs of the 3 bladed solid version several years ago and I was lucky to get half to spin without a wobble. Then make sure the arrows themselves don’t have any wobble to them… If it’s not your broadheads or shaft then you need to square up the face of both your shaft ends. Nock and insert end.
I’ve been using Axis 5mm Match Grade for quite some time. All my Magnus and Sevr broad heads spin true. It maybe the VPA’s aren’t true like stated above. Try another head if you have one and see if it spins true.
Echo all the above. I shoot both 5mm Axis and 5mm fmj’s. I prefer the fmj’s over all others. I actually screwed my broadheads all the way into the insert then use low heat hot melt glue and glue them in as one long piece. Then I can turn the broadheads how I want them. I shoot a two blade fixed so I index them vertically.
How did you square the shaft ends? That is the surface the BH seats on and is likely the culprit for any mis-alignment.
Squaring both ends of your shafts is the first and most important step to broad head alignment. Most shafts cut on saws are not square and as soon as you tighten the head down it’s forced out of axis. I turn and grind mine in a lathe , but at the very least get one of the squaring jigs like the G5 (I think it is?)
I’ve had to machine the shoulders on a few heads too that refused to spin and that fixed them. And the longer the head, the more exaggerated the wobble.
I have a small disc sander with typical T-square that slides into the table. I have that set to 90 and lightly touch the shaft end against the disc. Normally has worked great.
Is it possible those inserts are skewed in the shaft? There's no way to reach them or remove them.
HIT can not be askew unless the shaft face isn’t square. The insert tool like a broad will not abut flush. Sounds like that’s your problem. Turn and square the end and you will be fine. You can also put a flange footer over it to square it up, however that’s bandaid to a square shaft. Best to put the footer over a square face of the shaft so the flange contacts the entire face.
Let’s see a pic or two of your arrow. And then of the arrow with the broadhead seated.
Bought 6 VPA 150 gr 2-blade double bevel heads this past winter. They spun perfect on FMJ arrows with the 75 gr SS half-outs.
I can't believe everybody doesn't have a G5 ASD (arrow squaring device). I square the ends of all my arrows and they all spin true.
Yep, square the end up and use the correct BAR's (broad head alignment rings) once you do that you should be better off.
Mike, that’s the device I was thinking of. They do work and I have one in a drawer but don’t need it anymore.
And as mrelite said, use a BAR even if you don’t think you need it. Most BAR’s are flat on one side and appear a bit “rounded” on the other. The rounded side goes to the broad head and has a relief for any radius on the head’s shoulder. A head that won’t spin true without a BAR will often spin good or at least better with one.
You can also put a slight relief on the inside of the shaft. Axis shafts come with the stone to do that. But the BAR is better
Just wondering, does anyone have a method to test the squareness of the end of a shaft? Don’t recall ever seeing anyone mention or describe one.
—Jim
I agree with Mike, buy an ASD and you will know your arrows are perfectly square. Also this cheap arrow spinner is handy when cutting shafts. On some shafts I end up cutting from both ends of the shaft to get the run out to a minimum. And then spin all broadheads before they get to go hunting. Good luck !
Picture won’t post, just search Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector
I actually just built a new 1/2 dozen this weekend and had no issues with my magnus stingers spinning true. After putting field tips in I had one wobbling a little. The tip of a brand new field point ended up being bad….
Arrows right off the saw are terrible. You should see them in a microscope- ha.
Here is one squared on my home made jig with 220 sandpaper Left- and one right off the saw- right
Not only does it make them straight, but it makes them more durable when the mated surfaces are perfect.
Fwiw, when I was shooting those, i rarely had one not spin true…..and I didn’t break many.
I also cleaned the inside with 90% alcohol and used their thick/ strong epoxy distributing it evenly- that and squaring makes them very strong.
Hey all--thanks for the info. I was convinced for some reason that it was the HIT insert, but it was the shaft end. I don't have the ASD (but will soon!) so I built a jig to hold the arrow perfectly square and it made an incredible difference. Arrows now spin true. Thanks again--hoping one of those arrows runs into a caribou in a couple of weeks!
Scott
Good deal, Scott. Best of luck on the caribou hunt!
I use the G5 tool. If you want to tune your broad heads to match your fletching's just sand a little off at a time until they tighten and match up. Good luck.
I use the ASD on FMJ's and before I square them I mark the end with a sharpie. That way when all the ink from the sharpie is gone, the ends are square. I don't even have an arrow saw, I just use a regular table saw with a fiber blade. After cutting them with the saw I use the little stone to smoothen the end and chamfer the inside and then I use the ASD. Works great.
BAR......Broadhead Adapter Rings......were originally made and marketed by Easton, and they were flat with tapered edges. Their purpose was to provide a solid surface with a larger diameter than the arrow shaft to accommodate broadheads like the original Thunderhead, which relied on a small ring to keep the blades from falling out.
Later, when Easton started making the original ACC (Aluminum Carbon Composition) shafts, they began making the BARs in a tapered "cup" shape, specifically designed to fit ACC shafts of various diameters, and provide a smooth transition from the smaller diameter shafts to the typically larger broadhead ferrule, while at the same time providing a stable surface for the broadhead to seat against nicely.
In my experience the BARs do seem to cause better broadhead alignment, but if the shaft tip, or insert seating surface is out of square with the shaft, the broadhead will wobble on it's axis.
