I still need to buy the arrows, was looking on the classifieds but didn't find much so I'm going to buy the GT expedition hunters in lost camo 5575s. I also need a 150qt cooler for the meat. Cheapest I found was on amazon for about $80-$100. Found a guy on craigslist that has an igloo 150qt for $50 gonna see if I can grab that one. Next would be a coleman extreme150qt for $88.
From what everyone tells me I am definitely going to need a rangefinder bow hunting. I again looked on the classifieds on here and another archery forum but didn't find anything. I was trying not to spend more then $100, maybe between $50-$80 but is that possible? Cheapest I found was on Amazon, a Simmons lrf600 for $138. Is this even a good one? Does anyone know where I can get a good deal on an inexpensive one?
I appreciate any/all help. Thanks, Chris
It's nice encountering the enthusiasm of a new bowhunter and I wish you all the best as you become more engrossed in archery/bowhunting.
That being said, I believe you're putting a little bit more emphasis on "things" that you don't necessarily need as a bowhunter.
I'd like to offer one bit of advice that might help you out. Find out if there's an archery club near you that you could visit and eventually join, and then get to know some of the experienced guys/gals that have been at it a while.
Anybody who's been involved in archery/bowhunting for any length of time is a valuable resource of lessons learned, and I'm sure you'll find a few knowledgeable folks whose style of hunting matches yours, and who are willing to share their experiences in order to save you money and time and keep you from buying "things" that you may think you need now, but in reality, aren't really that important.
You need to come to Wapiti Archers this Sunday between 7:00am & 11:00 am. It is our monthly 3-d shoot. You don't have to shoot, just go into the clubhouse, introduce yourself, and talk with the folks inside and outside and let them know you need help. Almost everyone would be happy to help you out. Bring your bow, it will help us help you. Directions to the club are on the. Website.
Wapiti Archers of PA 465 South Bethlehem Pike; P.O. Box 992 Fort Washington, PA 19034 215-542-1216 www.wapitiarcherspa.com
Instead of relying on a rangefinder so you don't have to learn to judge by eye, or so you can simply shoot farther, you'd do better, imo, to learn to judge distance accurately out to at least your maximum effective range in a variety of conditions, and then hunt well within your capabilities. Like Stick & String said, respect for our prey is of utmost importance... and should be at least as important as whether we 'get one'.
Distance estimation is a skill that bowhunters should possess. A rangefinder can help you learn to do it by eye, but isn't necessary. You can just step it off. Practice it everywhere you go, every day if you can, to the mailbox, while at work, walking the dog, you get the idea.... if you have two working eyes, learning to judge distance inside bow range won't be difficult or take long. Once you get your form down, don't just continue to stand in one spot and fling arrow after arrow. I routinely take a single arrow out and shoot from a different spot at a different target and distance every time. That too helps with range estimation.
Enjoy this wonderful journey of archery and bowhunting. I remember the excitement when this was all new and in many ways I miss it.
When in the woods I would like to have it to range a few anchor points around the tree I'm in. Of course I am still going to have to count on my eye when the animal comes in to play, but having those anchor points will be VITAL in helping me train my eye.
Let alone training your eye in the woods, then adding a tree stand, inclining/declining elevations your eyes start to play tricks on you I'm sure. Hence having the rangefinder for some key anchor points is what I was intending to do.
Knowing the range you shoot at a live animal is very important, no doubt. At this stage in your hunting career in my opinion as a veteran bow hunter you should not even consider shooting at a deer any further than a 15-20 yard range. If you are going to be hunting from a fixed position like a tree stand or ground blind you can step off yardage and mark 10-15-20 yard trails off with surveyor tape.
Remember a big part of the challenge to bowhunting is getting close to deer. Never go into the woods thinking you have to kill a deer that particular day. Your confidence as a hunter will grow with every harvest, as your confidence will regress with every missed or worst yet wounded deer. Do not set yourself up for disappointment by trying to make shots that are not HIGH PERCENTAGE! The best advice I can give you is ONLY take high percentage close shots at un suspecting deer at this point in your hunting career. Infact I still live by that rule after 30 years and over 70 whitetail kills with a bow. You owe it to yourself as well as the game.
No dis respect to your set up but it is very outdated. If you are looking for a short smooth compound that is fast and forgiving and fits in your case without taking it apart you should be able to find a used one set up for what a new rangefinder would cost you. I for instance am selling a Hoyt Vipertech bow at 28 inches that was 6 to 7 hundred dollars new a few years ago. Speed bows do not hold their value for very long. Infact you can buy a new PSE that will shoot over 280 fps for about $300, that's just one example. If you check eBay you can probably find a newer bow totally set up with arrows broad heads and all for less money than what you are putting into arrows broad heads accessories on your older bow that is hurting your Shoulder.
Mike
PA_Archer1 is a troll.
Nah, I'm not buying this for a second anymore.
Joe, the ironic thing about "Mr. Painter" is that since he retired he finds himself deficient of the luxury known as "spare time". :)
Bob- whatever your trying to imply by me being a "troll" I'm not sure?? The advice to get a rangefinder was given to me from Bill the owner of B & A Archery and a couple of his friends there. That's why I referenced the anchor points, exactly like they told me to do. They also have years of experience and I have met them. No disrespect but I don't know you personally. How could I know how experienced you are?
I was actually trying to take you up on your offer to go to the Archery club on Sunday. I work at Lowe's on Roosevelt blvd. so 3 out of 4 weekends I work. Along with 4 kids and a fiance my free time is sparse. I work 2-11 a lot and even to get to B&A they are only open from 1-9 is difficult. What time are you there at Wapiti Archery club?
You mentioned even a novice knows to use a single anchor point and to use a single pin...Bill sold me a 3-pin sight so I just figured that was a good starter. As far as being a novice I wouldn't even consider myself that yet because I have NEVER been hunting. Bill from B&A invited me to go on a hog hunt the end of this month, he gets a group of about 25 twice a year so that's why I am trying to get stuff together.
Everything you guys have suggested to me I've read and tried to take in.
Treerat- my setup is definitely old lol. If you guys are telling me to forget the rangefinder what I'll do is put that cash aside for a newer bow. Truthfully how I got this bow was a guy came in to B&A with it and the owner Bill said it wasn't worth it to him and since I'm left handed told me to make him an offer. He asked for $20! I don't make a ton of money so at the time I thought it was a good deal. As I learn more about archery and bows I see the huge difference between my old bow and the newer ones.
I used a chronograph at B&A and my aluminum arrows were only going 175fps, carbon would be around 205fps they said. I'm going to do as you suggested Treerat and use some surveyor tape.
Not sure if you will believe me or not Bill but here is a pic of my son shooting his bow....notice the second pic is a portrait tattoo on my arm of him! Anyone that's been to B&A Archery will also know that is exactly how the inside looks, in the backround of my sons picture.
I'm really trying to learn from you guys so I do ask questions you might think are stupid, but it's only because I am trying to understand why or what is the reasoning.
I was going to ask Bob if since I'm not a member at that Archery club is it possible to still shoot and if so how would I go about it? My son in the picture would most likely want to go with me because he's the one really into archery and is going on the hunt with me the end of the month.
The bridge closest to me is the Tacony-Palmyra. I don't get what you mean about answering questions??
Mike
Sorry about that, your posts seemed very similar to an exchange on Facebook by a buddy of RC.
Please give me your son's clothes and boot sizes, I may have some boots and camo that might fit him...at no charge to you. Give me a list of what you already have for yourself, I may be able to add some things you don't currently have to your collection of gear.
2nd- Bob Mac maybe one of the most sincere generous genuine folks I know. Chris take him up on his offer. He's a good man.
3rd- I been tryin to be gentle here Chris... Treerat is right- you need a bow. You can buy an 8 yr old bow for about $200-$250 complete. You have time. I bought my compound off ArcheryTalk classifieds. They have a left hand section there.
Seriously the parts on that bow will work on another bow.
True that.....there ain't *NOBODY* reading this that has given back more to archery, especially those starting out, than Roy.
Chris, don't be afraid to let folks know what you might need. I have a basement full of gear in dust. Also, when you visit your shop have them show you what they're doing to the bow to tune it and why. It'll go a long way in making your shooting easier and better. From that pic above it appears they may have a "staff shooter" - those guys do know what they're doing and are generally always willing to get you started with good shooting form and other habits. That is critical to learning archery and becoming a great shot. Finally, don't take advice from guys who claim there isn't a wrong way to shoot a bow......rest assured, there are many.
Chris.... Roy......nevermind
Being as I'm not a member at Wapiti would I still be able to shoot even if not 3d?
I hear you guys loud and clear about needing a new bow...how do you guys recommend I go about buying it though without being able to try it? I have been on AT in the left handed bow section I will keep checking.
Also it was recommended because of the vast adjustments in dw and dl a PSE Rally would be good for me what do you guys think? I have seen them new for about 250-300?
Thanks, Chris
Specs are 28-30 DL 40-70 DW 65-80% let off 7" brace height 33.75" ATA 4.19lbs weight
My only concern is my DL is 31" do you think with D loop this would work for me? It seems hard to find a view with a 31"dl.
My compound bow is a 10 yr old Hoyt. Its about as hi-tech as I get. Don't know much about BowTech bows tho...
Somebody here will.
Roger- do you think using a bow that only goes to 30" DL is ok being that my DL is 31"? Will the D-loop make up that extra inch or should I get a bow with a longer DL that fits me correctly?
Should I look for a bow with a longer ATA maybe?
A 34" ATA length can work for you long armed guys too. It's just that when I worked at the pro shop we preferred to set long draw archers up with longer bows because they did tend to be a bit more of a forgiving platform for them to shoot. It's really in depth conversation, but it involves geometry to include the string angle, as noted above, but you already know how to mitigate that issue, so no big deal really. Besides, with the way the compound end of the industry is trending, longer bows are falling by the wayside anyway......There aren't many anymore to choose from anyhow. Thankfully, I'm on the niche side of archery and can still get the 60"-64" bows that I prefer, but that's another story and I hate digressing. ;^)
