tuning with slick tricks
Connecticut
I had my bow tuned at halls with field points mainly center shot. I shot it for a few months and felt good hitting a 6" spread at 60 yrds. So I get my grizzle tricks and swap points. The things are way off. About 4" left and 2" high at 10 yrds. So followed the instructions on slick tricks site and moved rest per instructions. I got impact difference to be about 4" at 30 yrds. Now I will say the shots with the broad heads are consistent but it would be nice to be able to swap between field points for practice. I'm chewing up my targets plus a miss may destroy a broadhead. Last season i had a diffrent bow but same tuning issues. I will say I like the slicktricks. Last deer I took I could swear I could see the hole and definetly see the blood coming out of the hole as the deer ran. Last season I used the standard slicktricks and they worked well. This season I'm using the grizztricks. The holes are huge. Tracking was easy.
That was your first problem going to halls. In my opinion they are now the worst bowshop. I will never return, I used to drive an hour and a half each way to go there as I thought they were on of the best bowshops in the state. However this year myself and one of my buddies go there to get our bows tuned new strings etc by them. 2 different bowtechs there one did mine and another my buddies. Well his initially started out with problems while we were there. While shooting the video a screw backed out of his cam and threw his shot way off that was corrected and he was shooting better, we left and 2 days later go to my archery club and are shooting 3d and he's shooting really well, 5 targets in and he's hitting dirt. Wth? They never shortened the new string they on his drop away rest, so it wasn't getting out of the way fast enough. For myself, I thought I may have gotten lucky and the woman who set my bow up did a good job. I shoot all summer, I'm on and hitting bullseyes out to 60 yds. I feel good and confident, well my own fault but I didn't get a chance to shoot my broadheads until a day before opener. I target shoot my slicktrick grizz tricks 1ft low and 4" left at 20 yds. Wth?! Take a 2 shot same thing, try 3 different broadhead types and brands. Finally I can get spitfires to shoot within 1.5" of bullseye. Ok not perfect but much better. I'm not a mech fan by any means and the 2nd day of the season I take a drive to mamaroneck and go to extreme archery. They look at my bow and find several issues including my nock point, 1.5" high. After about 10 minutes of tuning my grizztricks were flying identical to my field points out to 50 yds. Sorry for the rant but as you can see, I will never return to halls nor trust them to ever work on any of my bows or friends. In my opinion extreme archery in mamaroneck is the best around. Caring and patient and best if all know what they are doing.
My slick tricks shoot damn near identical to field points on all 3 of our bows. Mine are 1" high which is good cause i tend to aim low anyway.
I know we all have our favorite shops to go to but I have had great luck with Cabelas. Some guys think Im crazy but there are 2 or 3 techs there that in the past have found issues with my bow and corrected them and I have no issues except for my eyes getting worse!! I stick with Cabelas.
One thing that I've learn is that no matter where you bring your bow, they'll find something wrong with it just because it is not the way they do it.
There is one place where I don't go anymore because they are very condescending and think they are the best. They know nothing about customer service. I'm not going to name names but if you been there, you know exactly who I'm talking about.
Onthehunt, have you tried paper tuning your bow since it has been set up? This will give you a starting point. From there you can French Tune or "walk back tune" for finite adjustments. No one can pickup your bow and tune it for you...only you can do it.
What kind of bow are you shooting? You can also try yoke tuning. Its quick and could be the simplest and most effective solution.
If you need help Please ask. I shoot the Tricks and there is no reason that you can't achieve the same point of impact with field points and broadheads.
ive never used any slick trik product so I cant say but I don't understand why if it flies like a field point you would have to make so many adjustments . ive used rage before and with some minuet pin adjustment I was dead on 3/4"groups at 70yrds .
this year im playing with 160 gr zwikey eskimo because I wasn't happy with rages blades bending when hitting bone . so far it busted through 2 ribs and buried 3" into a tree . I found during practice if I split the difference between my pins 20 - 30 - 40 im hitting the same as my field points without having to make adjustments and it gives me a little better sight picture . so I guess its the best of both worlds .
yup , crow , I know exactly who your talking about ! I should've known from when I helped my buddies in the tackle business . they kept trying to sell me the latest and greatest bow when all I wanted was winners choice strings / cables and ended up with stock ! they wouldn't let me use my wrist strap to sight in my peep because they didn't sell that type , argued with me that they had to retie the peep cause it was off 2".instead of adjusting the peep they moved my sights . had to go back 2 times(40 min both ways) the same day cause parts were falling off and made it sound like it was my fault !!!!! the next day I shot 200 arrows , moved my sight 3" up 3/4 right just to get an acceptable group . I WILL NEVER EVER DEAL WITH THOSE BUMBLE F@#KS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! when the seasons over ill go to newbury and beg for forgiveness . lol. sorry for the rant
Bloodtrail is correct use the "walk back" method...its simple and effective...if you are unfamiliar with this method Google the Easton tuning guide, I'm pretty sure its included there
This applies to both field points and broadheads, but in my experience 90% of all problems stem from 1)fletching contact 2)grip. Draw length, body contact etc can cause issues as well but those first 2 are the big culprits assuming you have a bow set to centershot and square nock running through the berger hole.
Shawn is ridiculous with this stuff - listen to him.
I'll also add that you should get the easton tuning guide. It covers tuning really well and is free - cant go wrong!
Wicked big fan of slick trick
It's not the broadheads. That's for sure.
Have you tried the Ramcats? They fly exceptionally close to field points.
Just practice what you hunt with from where you hunt from if the lung fill with blood with a good shot you will see them drop any broadhead will work with a good shot practice practice practice . Oh yea and practice.
Paper tune! My slicks tricks wouldn't fly with my field points for the last few weeks so I finally learned to paper tune. Wow! SO effective. This will show you any little tuning issues in regards to knock height, rest placement, etc. All stuff you cant see with you naked eye. I even had a shop go through everything and couldn't find anything wrong. Absolutely paper tune if your broadhead aren't flying right. Paper tune with field points though. Its the only way to find out whats wrong.
New bow straight from halls. Was paper tuned three months ago ith field points when i bought it there. Was gropuing 5" groups at 60yrds with field points. As soon as i swithed to broadheads impact 6-8 inches left and high at only 10 yrds. Dont know about the "flies like field points claim" . they are consistent though. I get a consistent grouping so at this point i dont want bow to be down during season. I adjusted my sight but man are my targets getting chewed. I got a 2" hole bored through the center of one target.arrows go straight thru.
On the hunt, you should paper tune again. If your arrows are off like that at 10 yards, you definitely have tuning problems. Something is wrong even if its just a small adjustment needed. Slick tricks on a properly tuned bow will fly with field points.
Something is definatly not right because they do fly like field points. I know others have mentioned it but I would do it again and paper tune. I would use some chalk and see if anything is hitting your rest and paper tune for sure.
In three months you most likely have string stretch from all the shooting you have been doing. It is a new bow and string stretch is very common....also you could've adjusted your anchor point, etc. during that time which could throw some things out of whack.
Did you paper tune your bow OR did the pro shop guy draw your bow and paper tune it? Only you can tune your bow.
Also consider that even though you are getting consistant flight with your broadheads, your arrows might not be maximized for optimum penetration. I.E. they are entering the target at an angle and you have wasted energy. You want all that stored energy to be directed precisely down your arrow. Imagine your arrow entering the deer at a slight angle and not traveling directly through to your envisioned point of exit.
As far as your target....get used to it. You should be blowing out 1-2 targets every year practicing with your broadheads. It also builds confidence knowing that you are prepared.
If you need more help, just PM me. I hope all the advice on here is helpful.
I would start waaaay back at the beginning..bare shaft tune from 10 yrds . thatll tell you a lot ,then go from there . check your peep . it could be out of alignment ,up down not rotating enough . are you lifting your head to look through the peep ? did your anchor point or grip change ? are your arrows over /under spined ? check your rest , maybe not falling fast enough . check the timing on your cams . did you pencil in witness marks on your sights for reference before moving them ? a bunch of little things can add up to one big nightmare . better to lose a couple of days now than go in with so so confidence
biggest thing when paper tuning/ tuning in any other way... consistent anchor point and consistent release.
That is so important. You won't get any accurate readings unless you are completely consistent with those.
Bloodtrail and NotMe sound advice.
On the hunt... Are the broadheads the same grains as your field points? If they are different, it could have a slight effect in the amount of flex the arrow is experiencing at launch. Also you say that you are doing 5" groups at 60 with field points but are off at 10 yrds with the broadheads. What are field points doing at 10 yrds? You need to compare apples to apples. I know that I rarely go back to 10 yrds now that I am shooting consistently out to 40.
