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Need some time-saving advise

I'm going to have a laproscopic procedure done in a few weeks on my right shoulder and while its no big deal, it'll entail some rehab and a couple of months of recovery time.

I'm going to make it a point to do a lot of "band work" during rehab that applies to shooting so I'm hoping that I'll be able to start out in the 30#-35# range when I ready to get back to shooting.

Anyway, I plan on fletching up a dozen xx75 practice arrows suitable for that draw weight at 28" and rather than doing a lot of shooting/cutting/shooting/cutting, etc. I'm wondering what spine yunz would recommend. I'm thinking 2013's with either a 100 or 125 gr. field point cut to about 30" should work.

What would you guys recommend?

What type of bow, Dave?

1916's leave them long and start with 160 to 180 grains up front. You may want to add some type of cheap flipper rest for just this case. It will help eliminate some of your work. I have a 35 lb recurve Myself and my kid shoot. I use `1916s with 165 grains up front. The arrows are cut down to 29.5 inches. Fly great off the shelf or using a stick on flipper at both my draw length and my sons. Every bow is different! good luck with you operation!

Fwiw- I'm shooting 2013s out of my 50# grizzly. This is the best combo for me. Shooting 125gr tips. Draw at about 46#. I'm thinking you may want to go a bit smaller.

Best of luck with the surgery, Dave. I haven't shot aluminum in over 20 years so I can't help. Now if you want to shoot wooden arrows, I can make you a dozen for the cost of materials and shipping.

That's awfully kind of you RC, but I have quite an assortment of aluminums that I bought years ago when my nephews were all learning and they needed something more durable than cedar.

The ones I have are those that they've knocked a fletching or two off of or cracked the nocks on and I never got around to fixing. I've got 2013's, 1916's, and some X7's that I can't remember the spine.

Roger, I plan on buying a set of 30# or 35# limbs for a Samick Phantom that I have. I bought it with 50# limbs for hunting, and have always toyed with the idea of "downsizing" for chasing squirrels, bunnies, and stumps, and also for just plain playing with. It's 62" overall, and I have the brace height at 8 1/2" with a flemish fast flight string.

Dave, you can try the 1916 and 2013 since you already have them. Bare shafting will let you know if the spine is correct. Technically though, they should both be a bit too dynamically stiff for spine with that bow. 1816's would probably work very well, but like I said, try what ya got first. Best of luck during recovery, bud'. :)

Thanks Roger, Flatlander, and Dale,

I certainly appreciate the advise. I'm going to check and see if I have a couple of the 1916's and/or 2013 full-length and shoot them that way with some heavier tips and see what they do. I know that that's not ideal but its worth a shot.

And Rog, based on your advise,I'm going to order a half dozen 1816's and try them. I can always give them to the little girl down the street who's just discovered archery in gym class.

Sounds like a plan to me. :)

The 1916 and 2013 are almost indistinguishable in dynamic stiffness @ about .620 and .610'ish, respectively, but the 1916 is significantly heavier due to the wall thickness. Generally they do well in a full length shaft on limbs pushing 40# for a past center cut recurve like yours. It may just come down to how much weight you can actually draw after surgery, but I don't think 30# would flex them enough to get around the riser......never know though. Easton never fixed the problem with their arrow chart either, in that it still recommends arrows a full 15# over spine for recurves and longbows.

Roger,

Now I know who to reach out to for advise when it comes to this kind of stuff. ;^)

The generosity, willingness to share, and overall knowledge base on just about anything archery really, really, really makes me want to move back to PA just to be closer to all those smarts and all-around goodness.

I just wish the gov't would quit wanting me to work. LOL!

1816 all day long. Standard 125gr point. Try 30" long then shorten if needed.

I use 1816 w/125gr point with 28" shafts and 27" draw on my 42# longbow.

If you want to try your 1916's I'd suggest loading them up as Flatlander suggested. Heavy points might tame a too stiff shaft but you will lose trajectory fast.

OK, go ahead and shoot aluminums ya sissy pants wanna be:)

Hey old man, don't be hatin'. :^)

You have that new love of your life paper trained yet?

11 weeks old and she goes to the door and sits there waiting for us to take her out, she is doing great.

RC, That's great to hear. I'll bet you're going to have a blast with her as she grows up. She'll keep you young.

Hey Red, thanks for your input. Hearing that you're shooting those 1816's w/125 grain heads at 42# gives me even more confidence that all of you have steered me in the right direction.

I've used the solution Chuck proposed before way back when I was shooting fiberglass shafts out of a couple of Bear recurves. As I recall, I only had to go to 150 grains out front to get them flying right, but I never shot more than 20-25 yards.

wasn't there an xx75 0n here at one time?

He lost all his stars:)

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