I dre a zone D bear tag for this fall so Im making a new set of single bevel broadheads. Im using a homemade bow and didnt want to use the same homemade broadheads I used to take deer in the past so I want to make one that is a bit bigger.
Im using field points and 7 1/4" circular saw blades for the main blade. Im slotting the field tip (ferrule) and can peen the tip of the ferrule onto the blade but the joint at the back end is more challenging. I may try using tapered adapters instead of ferrules and Im still experimenting with what is better.
I designed a broadhead sharpening guide to create consistent blade bevels. I removed the bulk of the metal using th guide and a belt sander and then finished it on 400 and 1000 grit emery.
I will try the tapered adapter to see if they are a better option before O make a bunch of them. I hope to end up with something around 200 grains and then shoot the hell out of them out of my homemade bow until the hunt comes around. I think the simple design will do well if shot placement is held by me.
Im hunting with Art Hyde. Northern Bayfield County outfitters. I won a hunt with him a few year ago at the WBH convention and drew with 6 points.
RC,,,,,, with that head design, you might want to try some 4 fletch,,,,,, the 4 fletch seems to stabilize out of the stick better, with the heavy head....
just a suggestion,,,,, Art Hyde can not go wrong there,,,,,,,, are you going to hunt from the ground or tree.......
I wanted a little lighter version for the bear hunt broadhead so I switched from the re-shaped, steel, field points to aluminum adapters. Since they are aluminum I can use a micro saw and a Dremmel tool to cut the slots.
Then it was back to the saw blade. I used my broadhead sharpening guide to make the single bevel.I will use J.B. Weld in the slot cut in the adapter to fuse the blade and I will peen over the tip of the adapter in the hole in the blade to further trap the blade on the adapter. The J.B. Weld and eventual paint will have the final broadhead around 180 grains. Here is a video of the fit up before fusing the parts.
Awesome job on the broadhead and build along. I just happen to know of a state traditional bowhunting org. that would like to run a "how to" like that in it's magazine. ;^)
The first head is fused to the threaded adapter with J.B. Weld and by peening the tip closed in the hole in the blade. Then it was primed and painted.
In the universe of possible colors for broadheads, Ive always felt that glossy plum has been under-utilized. I hope to rectify that. Who knows, it might catch on. I took an indoor and an outdoor photo and you would think they were two different broadheads based on how the colors seem to have changed based on the lighting.
I calculated exactly just how much J.B. Weld and how much purple paint would be needed to get the head to exactly 180 grains....................... Nah, I just got lucky. The goal was 180 grains but I didn't think I would hit it spot on. Its better to be lucky than good. Now I just need to make a few more.
Yes, I use the reinforced (mesh) cut-off discs to cut the broadheads out of the saw blade. They don't overheat and take the temper out of the metal. You just need a steady hand.
Just curious how well the heads balance and spin true? Being new to traditional archery, only been shooting recurve for two years. Being that the arrow is moving at a much slower speed than a compound, does this come into play as much with arrow tuning vs modern equipment?
Zinger, your a dork. The Bowsite thread dumper would be a better name for you. I never met such an unhappy and pouty guy. Pull that stick out or shove it up in there the rest of the way.
The grownups are talking bowhunting. Take your tantrums elsewhere. ;-) LOL
"Just curious how well the heads balance and spin true? "
By balance I suspect you mean FOC of the entire projectile rather than the head itself. I like a heavy broadhead so I either make the head heavy or use a brass insert to boost FOC.
The head spins perfectly and the slots align everything. The J.B. Weld is just the "Glue"
"Being that the arrow is moving at a much slower speed than a compound, does this come into play as much with arrow tuning vs modern equipment? "
It doesn't matter compound or trad. The speed is not so much a factor as is correct spine and the archers paradox because of shooting it off the shelf with fingers. I bare shaft tune so once you get good flight with no feathers, adding feathers only makes it better.
Did you do any hardness testing to the saw blade you cut the heads from?
Any fear of the head being brittle?
How did you cut the blind notches / slots in the back of the blade where it mates with the tapered insert? Your inside corners are nicely square and sharp. Did you just use the Dremmel with a grinding bit? I know that the abrasive wheels are hard to control free hand and can shatter at the least little bit of binding creating a dangerous situation.
Your workmanship is quite good. You must have a lot of patience.
“Did you do any hardness testing to the saw blade you cut the heads from?”
I only make knives and broadheads from saw blades that DOT NOT have carbide teeth. Their base metal is pretty good. Most blades are L-6 with a Rockwell hardness of around 50. More than plenty to cut wood and flesh. I struggle to drill the dole in the mid section of the blade with standard drill bits so I use diamond. They will hold an edge well for the very limited time they pass through a bear.
“Any fear of the head being brittle?”
I like to test the drop left over after cutting out the blades. This will be more than durable for the task.
“How did you cut the blind notches / slots in the back of the blade where it mates with the tapered insert? Your inside corners are nicely square and sharp. Did you just use the Dremmel with a grinding bit? I know that the abrasive wheels are hard to control free hand and can shatter at the least little bit of binding creating a dangerous situation.”
Yes, all with high speed cut-off discs and free hand with inked lines. Very little file work to square things up. I pre-bevel on my belt sander and then final bevel using my Stay Sharp broadhead sharpening guide. (free advertising plug that will make some here wet themselves) hehehe
“Your workmanship is quite good. You must have a lot of patience.”
Thanks, but you will want to be careful how much you encourage me lest you be added to the list of “RC” clones. There is already a long list of people wanting to be me or trying to pass themselves off as me. (I don’t blame them one bit.) ;-)
A thread dumper? You're not even supposed to be here! Besides being booted a million and one times generally the people on here don't like associating with poachers.
Cool story bro but maybe its time you asked your doctor if Midol is right for you. Perhaps you are suffering from low T because I can't explain your constant bitching and pouting. Were here for ya lil fella. ;-)
By the by, what do you think of that rocking lavender paint job on the broadhead. Pretty macho, huh?
No kidding. You would think that by now zinger would have come to the realization that no matter how many tantrums he throws in every thread he is just not getting his way. I'm starting to feel bad for the guy knowing he cant let it go, get past this and move on. (that and his inability to ever actually talk about bowhunting)
I agree, I don't think anybody has ever been banned "a million and 1 times" but I think he was again using theatrics and drama in this latest tantrum rather than discussing broadheads, their construction or their use on bears. He really struggles to stay on topic. Its safe to say that not one of his comments have been on topic which in this case is constructing a single bevel broadhead using a saw blade for use with a stick bow for the purposes of bear hunting.
The guy doesn't start bowhunting threads himself and when he does comment in a bowhunting thread its the equivalent of him dropping his pants and curling out a steaming pile instead of making a comment of value or substance. That's what you get from a guy with a bogus handle and a made up profile name. He can be a complete tool since he is anonymous (in violation of the very rules he pretends to value).
You don't start bowhunting threads either, you start threads that pat yourself on the back or advertise the crap you sell. How many bogus names and handles do you have?
And you're right no one has been banned a million and one times, but I bet you've been banned more than all other members on here together.
This was a pretty neat thread. I have to say the broadhead looks very nice and I'm sure it would be extremely rewarding to kill a bear with a homemade BH. I surely don't have the talent, patience, or time to make one but it would be very cool to do if I did. I am not sold on the color though :).
Zinger some unsolicited advice......IF YOU DON'T LIKE READING RC'S THREADS, DON'T READ THEM. MOST OF ALL KEEP YOUR NEGATIVE COMMENTS TO YOUR SELF THEY ADD 0 VALUE. You should maybe look in the mirror before you call the kettle black.
I have to agree with you Happy on the color. :) But at the end of the hunt when the head and arrow are covered in crimson red, does it matter the color of the head?