Also, will the Garlon4 kill surrounding grasses and weeds of should some Gly be added to the mixture to cover them?
Thanks in advance!
Not sure about the weed kill, I have not really paid attention to that but I did spray some on quack grass intentionally once and did not kill it.
As far as mix rate for Garlon 4 in oil goes, 20% v/v is most popular. Some go as low as 12.5%. It all depends on how much coverage is done. Dilute=more coverage needed.
Garlon 4 is a broad leave herbicide. Glyphosate is a general killer of anything green. If you want long-acting grass and annual broad leaf control, Princep (Simazine) works well in water.
As far as mix rate for Garlon 4 in oil goes, 20% v/v is most popular. Some go as low as 12.5%. It all depends on how much coverage is done. Dilute=more coverage needed.
Garlon 4 is a broad leave herbicide. Glyphosate is a general killer of anything green. If you want long-acting grass and annual broad leaf control, Princep (Simazine) works well in water.
Would it be safe to spray the Garlon4/diesel and Gly/water on the same day? Basically what I have is an old logging trail that was terribly overgrown with tag alders. After loads of hours of working with a brush cutter and chain saw, I have most removed down to the stumps. I want to spray that trail to kill the stumps so I don't go through this effort again. Next, I want to spray Gly to kill the weeds and grass in there as I will be trying to get something good to grow in there (meadow fescue and birdsfoot trefoil). And yes, I will be laying down the lime and fertilizer according to the results of a soil test. This is not good soil in this area and my research shows what I plan to plant has a chance there. Northern Sweet Grass is another option and I might try that separately on a different section of the trail. THere is one area I have opened up getting lots of sun where some Alsike Clover might work in my main mix too.
It is hard to see the stumps now because of how far down I trimmed them with the brush cutter. Also, they are everywhere on this trail as it was totally overgrown with them. The trail was not walkable when I first started this last year. There were lots of sprouts from last year's cut down that I cut down this year. I am hoping to not have to do this annually.
Jeff, you bring up a good point. How much of this spray needs to make contact with the already cut alders?
Diesel fuel is commonly used but as treefarm says, it is a pollutant and I would discourage broadcast spraying it. Again expensive, ineffective, and just not good for the environment. Again, targeted use is much more appropriate.
With any of the pesticides, pay very close attention to the mixing directions. I often hear people say they used more than recommended thinking it will work better. That's not how these products work. You are just wasting money, putting excess chemical in the environment, and in the long run building resistance the the chemical. Use the numbers the manufacturer recommends.
If I spray this on uncut tag alders, I am assuming I only spray them at the base of the ground. How wet do they need to get to be affective or is this not a recommended approach?
Thanks again everyone.
Jeff in MN's Link
For future reference, if spraying with diesel in the winter I use #1 diesel, it comes out of the sprayer easier in the cold. In the summer the cheaper #2 is fine. You probably know about off-road diesel. It is usually cheaper than highway use but with fuel prices changing so much there could be circumstances where the highway stuff might be close or even cheaper.
If you think you will be doing a lot of base or stump treating for a while you might want to invest in an Ultra Low Volume Spray Wand. (see the link) $163 but it saves solution and pollution, valve is at the tip so no dripping after you let off the trigger, longer wand so less bending over, screen in the handle area so the tip clogs up less. One problem spraying in the woods is crap is always falling on the spray tank. Funnel top style tanks are magnets for this junk to get into the tank. I use Gilmore tanks as the top is more of a cap so less gets in but stuff still gets into the plunger area and gets between the seal and causes leaks of solution into the plunger tube. Or the junk gets into the solution and plugs your tip, or in the my case eventually plugs the filter in the handle. Always let pressure out of the tank when done. This stuff will last a long time even after being mixed with diesel but if you have crap in the pump tube then solution will find it's way into the pump tube and eventually on your floor, hands, whatever is in the way if presureized.
If this is the case, I wouldn't be too concerned with ridding your trail from it's existing vegetation as it likely is providing the best sod/root support possible. Periodic mowing of the existing alder and grass might be a better option than trying to establish something new there that doesn't off as extensive of a root system. Odds are the soils at that location are also rather acidic and prone to excessive saturation which may make it difficult to grow much other than what nature is already providing.
happygolucky's Link
Note too that I have lots of trails on this property where I have cut tag alders to open the trails up and expand them. I will not be planting in those areas but would want the tag alders killed so I don't have to do this brush cutter work annually. I will only hit those with the Garlon4.
This land I bought sucks. I got what I paid for (90 acres and a nice cabin for $100K), but it is mine and I am improving it. It is 90 acres of mostly cedar marsh but there are some higher dry spots and the land does hold deer and year round at that. My son got his first buck ever with his bow from here last year. We saw lots of deer. I know all the neighbor's land are the same (lacks quality) and any plots I can get in will be differentiators. I have 3 other areas that are higher ground that I have cleared and will plant on. My soil samples were poor but not terrible and not anything that can't be corrected - in those higher drier plot chosen areas. The trail in question is by far the worst and I did not get a soil sample. I am going to take a flier on this 1/5 acre section and drop 300#s of lime and 150#s of triple 19, do a fall planting of the mix noted above (after spraying it with Gly 3 times this season) and see what happens there next spring. Maybe I'll be surprised? If it works, I'll do the same in other areas of the trail that are drier.
I appreciate all the comments and advice.
Am I able to lay lime and fertilizer on the same day I spray either Gly or Garlon4? I live 3.5hrs from the land and time is a commodity. If I can't do same day, is the next day OK?
Thanks again for all the assistance.
If you plan on spraying, liming, fertilizing, overseeding and cultipacking you can do it after spraying gly, just make sure it is dry.
I have never done it with Garlon4, I only use that to spray stumps and other woody invasives. I do not know what the diesel does to the lime or fertilizer.
I wouldn't fertilize before planting, that's just adding food for the weeds. There is never a bad time to spread lime because it takes up to 6 months to start working.
I would cut the brush you want to, spray the stumps. Spray the gly and lime after the gly is dry and you should be good.
There never seems t be enough time to get it all done....
Headed out to meet with the bee man. He is helping me set up 2 hives to see of we can improve the pollination on the property and surrounding areas.