Contributors to this thread:
Anyone plant Austrian pines along their property border or by the road as a visual screen? Spruce varieties available grow a bit too slow for my liking. Share any thoughts on using Austrian pines. Thanks!
I have ten of them along the road. I live off of highway 51, so I did it for a wind barrier/sound barrier/and sight barrier. They grow fast, but they also start to spread their boughs and open up. I also planted a second row of Colorado blue spruce between each tree, and by far, the spruce have filled the void. I wish I could show you how much they have grown. It's incredible. You cannot see into my yard any longer. I would say at 12 years, they were large enough to hide my yard. I bought 3 year old blue spruce trees at a nursery in Hayward for a $1.50 a piece, along with a few white spruce, and put in 50 of those. Less to mow, and they look beautiful. My vote is spruce, and think they've grown very fast. My spruce trees are now 15 years old, and are around 15 to 18 feet.
If you are looking for a privacy bank, there should be more consideration than "fast growing". I had this dilemma blocking view so cars wouldn't stop on the road disturbing deer I was bowhunting. I also, have designed breaks for several others.
Sunlight. Long term, spruce exposed to good sun will retain their fullness.
Age. As evergreens age, they tend to open in lower canopy. That said, stick with species that can get full sun on one side at least. Spruce is that species.
Avoid non-native trees. Non-native trees can be susceptible to disease.
My recipe: White spruce in good soil grows fast. The thickness is great. Start with a row of White spruce seedlings spaced 15 feet. Less pacing if desired, but the fill effect is better with ample space. Start a second row 12-15 feet behind the first row, however, space the second row exactly 1/2 way parallel to first row. If more room is available, or more barrier is desired, continue with additional rows. Keep in mind. The middle rows will be shaded low, no matter what you do. I like to place a final row, if desired, of Red Pine. The Red Pine adds a mature element. I really like mature pruned Red Pine. It is visually appealing.
The success of a good barrier planting depends on available sunlight. South facing is always a good bet.
In the end, don't overlook White spruce. Avoid Colorado Blue spruce as there are issues long term with them.
Will deer browse spruce seedlings?
Tomas, in rare winter starvation mode. Generally no. Firs like Fraser and Balsam will get browsed before spruce. Firs and especially Tamarack are susceptible to deer rubbing.
Treefarm, what issues with blue spruce long term? I have them in my large yard only, but interested in what you have to say about them. I used your formula almost to the letter when you spoke of it in the past when planting, these trees (meaning apart). I have three different spruce breeds, two species of fir trees, and those original Norways I planted 21 years ago. All of them have plenty of sunlight, and the soil here is very rich southern farmland black dirt.
I have Colorado Blue Spruce and haven't had issues. It is one of the spruces that is more disease prone. It is still a popular choice for breaks so no worry.
Pete-pac, I think I'll try your suggestion. I planted White spruce along the road a couple of years ago and they are really slow in taking off. A row of Austrian pines should do the trick until the spruce catch up.
In the woods, I'm just looking for a visual barrier from my neighbors and the Austrian pines might give me the faster growth I'm looking for. In the interior spaces, I've been fencing in White Pines to keep the deer from browsing of their tops in the winter. It's amazing how fast white pines will grow if you keep the deer off of them. Will continue this practice until you can see white pines throughout my 80 acres.
Along the edge of my food plots, I'm thinking of planting a row of red cedars and than back them up with Austrian pines. Good visual break and may result in more bedding on my property.
Thanks for the comments!
JPA, planting trees is a good idea. We need more people like you.
One caution on Red Cedar. Red Cedar and apple trees don't mix (Cedar Apple Rust), so use caution. Generally speaking, removing Red Cedar, especially oak savanah restorations is done. If only habitat, Red Cedar is fine but it spreads widely on drier sites. Habitat improvement is an individualized ordeal depending on site, and goals. Habitat is key for keeping deer happy. Way to go!
Would you use White cedars instead of the red? I know the whites can be ordered through the DNR site. Your thoughts.
The problem with White Cedar is it is a preferred winter food source. If you have seen neighbor's Arbor Vitae denuded, you would understand. If not eaten, it is beaten!
Speaking of White Cedar in my bow hunting haunts...the Cedar swamps and isolated white cedars are all matured. With modern day deer populations, white cedars just don't regenerate without exclosures. I can honestly say, I never see small regenerated white cedar. It makes one wonder, how did the mature white Cedar ever get started? What were deer densities when those white cedars got going?
White Pine regeneration too is another good indicator of deer populations. Back in the early 2000's, virtually all white pine 4 feet and under had terminal buds nipped off. After the massive antlerless harvests and subsequent back-filling of wolves, I now see white Pine that is not browsed. Here is a tip. White Pine that gets its terminal bib nipped has to form a new leader from adjacent branching. An easy remedy in the late fall is to take a 2" x 6" strip of paper and fold over terminal bud. Staple the paper to the needles if the Pine. The new shoot will grow out in the spring. Deer generally won't bother the protected terminal bud.
In the end, if your bowhunting property isn't what it should be, plant more trees and create habitat. Planting trees is your best bang for your buck if you want deer. Think of trees as permenant food plots, with the advantage of providing cover. Trees are our future.
I would stay away from Austrian pines. Think about Norway spruce if you would like faster growth. Faster than the other spruces and not the disease problems of other non native conifers.
I've been planting Norway Spruce for 3 years now. They say they sleep, creep, and leap on the 3rd yr. I'm hoping they take off in the spring. After the 1st yr I throw some triple 10 around them.
I know this thread mainly is talking about Austrian pines and screening options. I have recent bought a property and see I have lots of need for trees. Screening fast growing by highway(hybrid willow(?)), pine screens to shield open farm field, fruit tree options, etc Can a few of you more experienced land owners point me to some resources to read. I am well aware of the QDMA site and some of the "whitetail land pro" sites. Just wondering if there might be some other suggests. Secondly, once you get that multi year plan then where, when do you buy the trees from. DNR verse other nursery's, etc
My friend in South Dakota is looking using Hybrid willows to block the road hunters from looking past the ditches. The one problem I see with the willows is they loose their leaves in the fall and you can look through their trucks just like any other non-evergreen tree.
I was thinking of white cedars in a low area. The DNR price seems good. My goal is more for habitat than privacy.
Tweed, regeneration of White Cedar is extremely labor intensive because if deer aren't eating it, they are rubbing it. It needs to be fenced until it goes tall. Used to be a product called Tree Guard. It contained denatonium benzoate in a latex binder. Sprayed on Cedar, deers would not touch it for months. Can't find the product anymore.
