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Recurve
Pennsylvania
Contributors to this thread:
Drdj 21-Mar-17
DaleHajas 22-Mar-17
Vonfoust 22-Mar-17
Jeff Durnell 22-Mar-17
Joe The Teacher 22-Mar-17
Phil Magistro 22-Mar-17
DaleHajas 22-Mar-17
Drdj 22-Mar-17
DaleHajas 22-Mar-17
Phil Magistro 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 22-Mar-17
Phil Magistro 22-Mar-17
Red Beastmaster 22-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 23-Mar-17
Bob McArthur 23-Mar-17
RC 23-Mar-17
Phil Magistro 23-Mar-17
RC 23-Mar-17
JacobNisley 23-Mar-17
Red Beastmaster 23-Mar-17
DaleHajas 23-Mar-17
RC 23-Mar-17
superslamsam 24-Mar-17
From: Drdj
21-Mar-17
I'm thinking of trying to shoot a recurve and am looking for suggestions on what to get. I primarily just want to target shoot but would consider hunting with it if I learn how to shoot it. I currently shoot a Mathews creed xs at 55 lbs with a 28" draw. Any help???

From: DaleHajas
22-Mar-17
Start with 45# give or take. Yard sales, craigslist, ebay, before you drop serious cash on a custom bow. I recommend aluminum arrows to start. You can be in a decent completed rig for $200 or less, in case you might not like shooting trad. First few weeks of practice worry about grouping not bulls. Good groups mean consistent form. Your back muscles will start to tire after 15 shots or so, take a break for another day. Build up those muscles this is a different ball game. Have fun, go roving for stumps, find a buddy, take your better half :) or find group of trad folks as theyre becoming more popular now. Dont be afraid to ask questions, Good Luck! Heck you have enough buddies that will help get you going!

From: Vonfoust
22-Mar-17
When I find one on CL or yard sale, what do I look for to make sure it's safe? General condition is one thing but are there certain spots I should check for cracks? Surface cracks, or what I call 'crazing' and issue?

From: Jeff Durnell
22-Mar-17
Make sure all glue joints are tight, including overlays. No cracks at the tips/string grooves. Overall crazing in the finish isn't a structural issue. But watch for isolated signs of stress in the glass where the riser fades out into the limb on a one piece, or where the wedges fade out into the limbs of a take down. I've seen the fiberglass on their backs fail here in a handful of older recurves.

Sight down the limb, from the handle towards each tip to verify the limbs are in alignment.

If it checks out and a proper length string is available and you or the seller can string it, do so, and again check the limb alignment at brace height. If a recurve's limb is twisted, it shouldn't be drawn until fixed. Most can be fixed at home without much trouble. If alignment is good, draw it a short distance and then in increasingly longer pulls listening for any creaks, cracking sounds, etc.

22-Mar-17
Wow,, this is such impressive advice. The passion shines thru.

22-Mar-17
Denise, what part of the state are you in?

From: DaleHajas
22-Mar-17
Jeff offers great advice heed it.

Longitudal surface cracks are common in many older bows, especially Bears. They can be repaired and filled but will return. Bows with these can still be shot but I wouldn't recommend one for the beginner to use, unless he plans on getting the bow refinished.

The very first things I look for are bent limbs from bad storage or the leg stringing method. Easily repaired. Since I Like to refinish, the stress cracks arent as important to me unless we're talking de-lam. Then I check nocks to see what kind of shape they're in. Crazing is the small horizontal cracks that are finish only and can be sanded away or left on temporarily

From: Drdj
22-Mar-17
Phil, I live in New Ringgold which is near Cabelas Hamburg. I saw a recurve at Cabelas right under $150 but I'm not sure if it's any good. Can I use my same arrows from my compound?

From: DaleHajas
22-Mar-17
Denise, IMHO you can get a Samick Sage new for nearly that amount, and theyre great shooting bows. Lancaster which is a UBP sponsor sells Samick bows. FWIW

22-Mar-17
The reason I asked was to see if I could point you to a good resource near where you live. I live just outside of Reading. If I wasn't all packed up to move to a new house I'd offer to let you shoot some of my bows to help you know what to look for.

Depending on which bow you get you may be able to use the same arrows you use now. You may have to increase the point weight to get them to fly well. That said, I think you would probably be better served with a 40# bow to get started. I seen guys that shoot 60# struggle to get good form with 45 and 50# recurves. At 40# you'll likely need to get new arrows.

Cabelas is not the best choice to get help or equipment. A trip to Lancaster Archery to talk with the traditional folks would be very helpful.

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17
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From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

From: Bob McArthur
22-Mar-17

Bob McArthur's embedded Photo
Bob McArthur's embedded Photo

22-Mar-17
Bob, selling is not permitted on the forum. And Denise asked about something lighter than her 55# compound.

22-Mar-17
A 56# recurve to start with is a recipe for disaster. A bow 40# for target and hunting is more reasonable.

Nice bow though.

From: Bob McArthur
23-Mar-17
Started out with a 55# longbow, had no problems. Moved quickly to a 60# recurve. Back to a 56# longbow.

From: Bob McArthur
23-Mar-17
Can't remove the post and pics using my cell.

From: RC
23-Mar-17
LMAO:)

23-Mar-17
I agree with Red. Going from a 55# compound to anything more than 45# is asking for problems. I think 40# is a much better way to start.

From: RC
23-Mar-17
Probably 30 to 35 would be better for a women.

From: JacobNisley
23-Mar-17
The Samick is a great bow. In my opinion you will have to spend twice that much on something else to get a better bow.

23-Mar-17
I love Samick bows. My Samick recurve cost 1/5 what my custom did and I really can't tell any difference in shooting. I had the Samick in less than a week, the custom took 28 months.

You can find Samick bows at Lancaster Archery. Look them up then give them a call for excellent customer service. They are a good source for arrows too.

From: DaleHajas
23-Mar-17
And do you buy them in bulk?:)))

From: RC
23-Mar-17
Prolly a 100 at a time the way he shoot's:)

From: superslamsam
24-Mar-17
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/big-rock-pharos-takedown-recurve-bow.html

Check out the link above. I can not imagine a better bow to start with. The limbs are easily interchangeable so you can start out with light weight limbs and move up in poundage as you become comfortable. This bow can be shot off the shelf or using a rest. I'm not trying to confuse you, but this bow will be extremely adjustable and customizable. The price seems to be great too! I would also recommend starting with 30-35# for your first trad bow. You can EASILY overbow yourself leading to bad habits and less enjoyment from the sport. Good luck!

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