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Steep Angles and Shooting Form

I posted this on the Elk Forum. I am really scratching my head here. Perhaps my fellow CO archers can provide some insight:

Need some help here.

I shoot RH and have the MBG adjustable sight. Yes, it has the 3rd axis and we've tested it out and it's all dialed-in. On flat ground, I can shoot sporting clays at 70-100 yards. Not trying to brag, as any of you can do that with the modern bows and sights.

The problem is this: when I shoot angles, my arrows drift left on me. Yes, I bend at the waist. Why would this be happening? Need some help on what I can do to correct in my shooting form. At 80 yards or so, it's about 6". Any ideas/tips would be appreciated.

Sight is not level 2 and 3 axis

seems like u are canting your bow

Assuming the most obvious, that you're watching the bubble level.....then something in your form is probably changing. Possibilities would be your bow-hand grip, the follow-through action of your bow-hand at release, your anchoring geometry, or something else form-related. It would be interesting to know whether you get the same left-sailing tendency on steep angled shots both uphill AND downhill.

I doubt your arrows are actually "drifting" to the left. You arrows are hitting exactly where the pin was at the time of release. Canting the bow, dropping or sliding the bow arm to the left, slight change of anchor point, change of form, change of stance. At 80 yards, most would be happy with that. The average bow elk kill is less than 40 yards as was determined by a bow site survey a few years back. Of 11 elk killed. my farthest elk killed in 38 yards for an average around 25 yards.. Hope you figure it out. Paul

There is more to it than simply bending at the waist. How you pull in to your anchor can has a big impact on accuracy. If your anchor is your peep sight, it can change the pressure your string is putting on your face/nose. Pull in to your anchor, then address your peep sight, then the target. Paul mentioned your grip as another potential weakness and I completely agree. Another thing to look at is how your "V" is potentially changing. The "V" is made up with your grip, bow shoulder and anchor point. Many people have a relatively open "V", but when they bend at the waist, it opens up on them.

One last thing is how you checked your 3rd axis level, if you did it on a jig, it is only telling you part of the story. You need to use a Hamskea EZ Level, it accounts for the torque that you are applying to the grip.

Are you shooting out the other side uphill?

I got the downhill dialed-in. We checked and adjusted the 3rd axis the other week. However, shooting uphill really alters things and yes, it still goes L. I feel like I'm almost laying my bow on its right side (shoot RH) when getting my MBG sight bubble level. The bubble says it's level but it sure doesn't feel that way.

Aim a little to the right when shooting at angles. That should fix it

COHOYTHUNTER, that's what I started doing, especially after Taylor Canyon's walls claimed a number of arrows. I'm still curious if there is a better way to shoot than just guessing 6" R on a 30 yard shot straight up. Again, it feels weird almost laying the bow on its side to get the bubble to level.

I was actually joking... But I do have a question.. when you set your 3rd axis, were you at full draw or was your bow in a vise? The reason I ask, is that your bow is obviously at a greater degree of torque at full draw and also depending on your form could be tweaking it a bit... There are basically two schools of thought on the 3rd axis set up.. some say that there is no need to be at full draw while others say its a must.. I personally feel that I want to set that axis as close to real shooting scenarios as possible so I set mine while at full draw.. Anyway, if you didn't set your 3rd axis at full draw, try that and see if it makes a difference.

Something seems off. 2nd axis or 3rd axis. Or your releasing different or torquing

Yes, at full draw.

Get a stick bow and learn to hunt instead of how to shoot 80 yards. Don't get me wrong but learning how to hunt /with that said, close shooting can be much more rewarding.. IMO... I have 12 bulls with a 12 yard avg./w 5 under 5 yards , one over 51 of my paces =40 yards . Most were under 17 Yards. A shot longer than 40 yards is foolishness in my way of thinking. But that is my limitations or in other words if I can't get inside 40 I am not likely to loose an arrow. I have called those 5 bulls in to 5 yards so I know it can be done when you learn to hunt Elk. Good Luck to all my bow hunting buddies in Colorado.

Dead-on downhill, but flying left uphill means of course it's all in your form, which I'm sure you've already realized. If you shoot a wrist style release, you could try changing the offset length on your release. Or if not, you might have to tweak the draw length.

Rambo, your elitist attitude is rather insulting. It's people with your mentality that keep us hunters divided--exactly what those with opposing views want to see from us. Your response is nothing but an opportunity for you to puff your chest and do nothing to contribute to this thread. I asked for help, which some people have been very generous and offered, unlike you.

I never said anything about hunting at 80 yards. Shooting longer distances makes one a better shot, as it exposes your flaws.

I was seeing shots drifting L when shooting directly above me at 30 yards. But I guess that's too far and is just shooting, not hunting. Maybe someday I'll be as great of a hunter as you.

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