Sitka Mountain Gear
Arrow length
Massachusetts
Contributors to this thread:
Eastie778 04-Dec-17
spike78 04-Dec-17
Donnie36 04-Dec-17
Eastie778 04-Dec-17
Sosso 04-Dec-17
Sosso 04-Dec-17
Will 04-Dec-17
Eastie778 04-Dec-17
Sosso 05-Dec-17
From: Eastie778
04-Dec-17
So I've been contemplating cutting my arrows shorter, because they seem a bit long for me, and also on the arrow chart my setup is right on the border between 400 and 340 spine. I shoot 400s, and if I cut it down it would put me solidly in the 400 range. I'm wondering if this would also help with accuracy, and bringing up the speed a bit. My concern is a loss in arrow weight, and as a result, kinetic energy. I'm shooting a 29 1/2 inch arrow with a 28 1/2 inch draw, the arrow is 10.2 grains per inch, and the total arrow weight at this point is a bit over 400 with a 100 grain head. I clear the riser by a little over an inch, but with the drop away, I could trim anywhere between 1 to 2 inches easily. How long should an arrow be in relation to your draw? Will a shorter arrow increase accuracy? Thanks guys.

From: spike78
04-Dec-17
If you shorten it then you give yourself a stiffer spine which could affect your accuracy. It all depends on what your bow likes. I hate being on the border cuz it makes you have to think. I would definitely only cut one to try out first. The guys can correct me if I’m wrong but the goal IS to clear the riser drop away or not by an inch. My opinion is if it is in tune and shoots good don’t fix what ain’t broke. A few extra feet per second ain’t worth the headache of what may come.

From: Donnie36
04-Dec-17
I build my own arrows and I chop them as short as I can get them, I find they fly faster and more accurate less bend off the string. My personal experience, somebody might have more input but I shoot very accurate so it works for me . Sounds like your shooting flj’s by your description and that’s what I shoot.

From: Eastie778
04-Dec-17
Yeah, that's exactly right. I'm not so much concerned with speed as I am accuracy. If an increase in speed occurs as a side effect, that's great too, I just don't want to lose much kinetic energy. The bottom line is I would like to make a shot as perfect as I possibly can on an animal, and hopefully have a pass through be the end result. I was really happy with the arrow as far as penetration, I'm just hoping to make it as accurate as possible. What are you guys shooting for arrow length in comparison to draw?

From: Sosso
04-Dec-17
Just one question. Do your arrows pass through deer?

If the answer is yes, do it for accuracy sake. If not, consider going to an 8.4gr/in arrow. It’ll kick up your KE. On the curve it’s likely your easiest increase to KE.

Pass through is wasted KE and most modern compounds 60lb and over kick out arrows 350gr to 500gr. that all deliver over 50ftlbs at impact, which is a pass through. Fixed broad heads maintain the most KE and at 50ftlbs at surface impact an arrow could even strike a scapula and pass through the remaining body.

My draw is the same, my arrows are 29” 384gr (including broad head) at 62lb pull at ~290 fps. I get full pass throughs at 20 yds...it’s why I ask.

From: Sosso
04-Dec-17
Oh, and I realize that the loss in weight of an 8.4 arrow would lose KE, but the speed increase would make up for it, most observable in 60# bows where speed fall off is much higher due to arrow weight than 70+ bows. But I don’t know what you’re shooting for a bow so I just assumed 60. ....

Ok, just took 5 min and played with the numbers. It’s a fair bet you’re over 70ftlbs. If you cut your arrow a half inch the KE drop is ~1ftlb. Drop 1 FPS for shiz n giggles and you still only drop 1 ftlb. And are still hitting for about 75-77 ftlbs.

From: Will
04-Dec-17
Sosso nailed the physics. You would gain a smidge of stiffness, which may impact accuracy - better or worse - really depends on the force curve of your bow.

I like Spikes idea. Cut one and mimmic walk back tuning without changing anything, just watch how differently things fly. My gut says with the distance you have to cut, the acciracy change will be smaller than most humans skill level can display.

From: Eastie778
04-Dec-17
That's cool how you guys can figure that stuff out, can someone balance my check book now? Haha, just kidding, I have kids and Christmas is around the corner, nothing to balance! Lol. Ok, seriously, I also liked spikes idea, cut one and see how it performs. Your right on Sosso, I pull 60 lbs. I do get pass throughs, on the two bucks I shot last year the wound channels were great. I just find my groups outside of 30 yards aren't as tight as I want them, although I'm super critical of myself, nothing wrong with aiming for perfection. Thanks for the help guys!

From: Sosso
05-Dec-17
For your groups do you check your arrows? When you get new arrows, shoot a small group of 3. Then repeat with remaining arrows. If form was good with each set, pull out the arrow(s) from each group that were furthest from center. Now repeat with that new group of arrows. There’s usually a goober or two in every half dozen.

It could also be your broadheads if you target practice with those.

Lastly, it could be your grip. 30 yds is when our tiny hunter stabilizers actually have to do something, and frankly they’re just about worthless. So what do you do to fix it? You grip! Lots of people make little micro adjustments to their grip at distances 30 or over because of their tiny stabilizer. I’m guilty of it.

If you’re sporting a 6oz. Stabilizer, it may be time to spring for something larger. Keeping in mind that a larger stabilizer in a tree will work against you (you’ll grip again, only the bow will want to fall forward).

Just some things to check is all. Good luck with it.

  • Sitka Gear