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I've had a number of Bowsiters ask me to do this in the past year or two, so here goes. I might say that this method will work on the snuffer ss's and similar heads that allow you to lay your three blades broadhead flat.

I'll try to make this as simple as it really is.

Before starting let me just say that I have been shooting and sharpening snuffers for over 20 years. I am sure there are a few ways to sharpen snuffers that I haven't tired, but I really can't think of any. I used the file method, the grinder, the sand paper, the carbon sharpening stones, Arkansas stones, etc. You name it, I think I have tired them all. Through all the trails and tribulations, the following method is the one I found to be the easiest and it gets the snuffers sharper than any method I have ever tired. I could go in great detail explaining the reasons I no longer use a file, or the reason I will never put a snuffer to a grinding wheel again and so forth and so on. Like I mentioned, at least for me, the method I use at present is the best and easiest I have been able to get the snuffers razor sharp.

The picture above is an array of some of the stones I used along the way. One can see I spent quite a bit of money experimenting. Now, I only use two stones to get the job done. I showed the array of stones and will explain a little bit about sizes and the reasons for different stones. But in reality a person only needs to purchase two stones and to start out, you can get by with just one. I will explain that a little later in my series of posts.

Okay now we are ready to sharpen a snuffer. Like mentioned in my first post, I use two stones. The first stone I use is the large yellow DMT diamond steel shown at the bottom of my first posts picture.

It is 4" wide and 10 inches long. I purchased it from Bob of Helle Knives. I am sure he can tell those interested where one like that can be picked up. I just got this stone about a year ago. DMT color codes their stones and although this is a two sided stone, I just use the black side, or the very rough side. It removes material very fast. From package to the finishing stone I can do the process in about 3 minutes per broadhead.

The picture above shows a snuffer and its factory grind. We are now ready to make it hunting and razor sharp.

I take a snuffer that is turning true and set it on the stone. One side of the snuffer with be sticking up and grab that with my thumb and fingers. I then move the snuffer from the back of the stone. long wise to front. I then drag it back. I do this cutting off excess material for 30 strokes. I count each full stroke I do. If I do thirty, it really is 60 as I count only a full repetition.(forward and backward). Once I have done this I rotate the head 120 degrees. and repeat the process the same number of counted strokes until I have done all three blades. I then look at the blades in the light and you can see the material you have removed. At this point you can also still see some of the factory grind. I continue this procedure until I have removed all the factory grind from the back of the head to its point and on all three sides.

The picture on this post shows where the diamond steel has removed part of the factory grind, but also shows that remaining. Look close at this picture and the one that preceded it in the last post. The second picture shows a snuffer that has about ½ the factory grind removed. You continue this operation until ALL the factory grind is removed and all edges come together. Once this is done you are ready to got to the finishing stone.

The picture on this post shows the stone, the snuffer and the way I grab and push from rear to front along the length of the stone.

This picture with this post shows all the factory grind removed on the rough stone and it is now ready for the finishing stone.

Note the grind marks removed, and that all edges come together, there are no dips, and it runs the full length of the broadhead from back to point. And you have removed the same amount of material from all sides. And all edges are perfectly flat because you use the stone and broadhead itself as your built in guide. Again, not so with grinding or filing.

For this I use the very finest diamond steel. I suggest you don't purchase the short ones, but spend a bit more and get the 2 1/2" x 11 1/2". I got mine about 6 years ago and its better today than when it was new. I think I paid about $70.00 for it at the Woodcraft store. I know most of the stones shown can be purchased over the internet for less money. Just make sure you are getting the proper stone before ordering.

The picture with this post shows that stone and the final touches to getting a razor sharp snuffer.

At this point, I just push the snuffer from the back to the front of the stone. I lift it up and come back until I have done it 4 times, counting the number on each side. Then I do it 3 times, then 2 times and then finally a series of one time. 1-2-3 1-2-3 1-2-3 going very lightly the full length of the stone on each side, picking it up and starting from the back and moving forward each time. Soon you will hear a smooth, soft sound and you will gain a feel and an ear and know when the head is done.

Use light strokes with very little pressure now. You are not trying to remove material now, you are honing a sharp edge. It does not take pressure, just some light strokes. In no time it is shaving sharp. Even the a person who has no talent at sharpening things, can use this method and get a razor sharp head.

The picture with post show me shaving my arm with an arrow I pulled from my bow quiver. In a large picture you can plainly see the hair and hopefully in this one you will be able to at least see the hair missing from my arm.

I can take a factory head, once spin tested, and have it razor sharp in less than five minutes using the method and stone shown in the above method.

From that point on it takes just a few strokes to keep it sharp. I re sharpen my snuffers about every other day when I'm hunting, unless its wet and I do them each day.

Have a great bowhunt. BB

I will challenge anyone to a snuffer sharpening contest. My method-against yours. There is none better! And as Will Sonnet used to say on the old TV western show------ "No brag, just fact."

Have a great bowhunt. BB

Codfish

At this point in time I think a guy could purchase one double sided DMT steel and be set for life. In fact I just purchased a friend one for his Christmas present that is coarse (one step down from the black one(extra coarse) shown in the post where I was removing the grind). The other side is extra fine. I purchased it from Woodcraft and it ran $120.00 with free shipping.

You can also use these steels to sharpen your knives, and many other tools. I don't know how I could get along without one, now that I’ve had one.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. BB

Have a great bowhunt. BB

Only problem I have with snuffers is their long length makes them weak and prone to bending. Find Montecs to be much tougher, just harder to sharpen and I think thats because the steel is harder.

PS. If you can't afford or don't want to drop the coin on the diamond stones just yet you can ge similar results(speed and sharpness) using a smooth piece of tile, some spray adhesive and a few different grits of WET/DRY sand paper. Be sure to use water with this method as well.

Good thread

Bob Urban

I've been shooting snuffers since the early 80's and I beg to differ with you on that statement. In fact there's not many, if any heads, stronger or more stable than is the snuffer design. And the length adds to it ability to penetrate better. I think the old 100 grain snuffers, because they were smaller and had less steel had a tendency to bend, if they hit something very hard, but the bigger ones, which I use, are as tough as they come. The new snuffer ss's are as tough as they come too.

I've used water before and I know there are lots of ways to skin a cat, but I prefer to use the dry method after trying it both ways. With either method they sharpen razor sharp in no time.

I've tried sharpening snuffers in everyway imaginable. For several years I did the sandpaper method, but it does not compare to the edge one can get with a good, fine, diamond steel. At least that was my observation.

Have a great bowhunt. BB

This was a Montec G5 and Snuffer shot at a concrete wall 3 years ago.

Thanks again BB for turning me on to Snuffers years ago! In my opinion I dont believe there is a better BH on the market. (Although I am VERY impressed with the SS)

I sharpen the same way BB does and it is a very slick and simple process.

Above someone posted that the longer length makes them weaker. Perhaps, as BB noted, on the 100 grain model the heads bend but the heavier ones are tough as they get. If they make a tougher head they are keeping it for themselves; I sure haven’t seen it.

WARNING: Strongly biased editorial below

Along with the many other compromises that I personally think today’s bowhunter makes with the business end of their arrows (e.g. dull heads, mechanical failures, punch-then-cut, light arrow weight), I rank cutting length right up there. Everyone focuses on cutting diameter and neglects length. This is a mistake – IMHO.

After all, you wouldn’t cut your bread with an Exacto-Knife or skin your deer with just a razor blade would you? Snuffers have always left an exit wound that was significantly larger than the cutting diameter of the head (which, by the way, is about 1½” on the 160 grain model). That is completely due to the length of a sharp blade. On the other hand, I’ve seen some heads actually produce exit wounds that were less than the diameter of the head. That’s not good. I believe a dull head with short blades is the culprit here.

I prefer the Fred Bear filed edge serrations over a clean sharp edge. I feel that the blade retains its cutting characteristics better as it passes through bone and tissue when its serrated than it does when it’s a clean edge. I rank head dullness on its ability to hold an edge through the entire shot on an animal. It should still be sharp when you pick it up after the hit. My Snuffers always are.

On another note, the three blade design puts the Snuffer over the top. Once, after a tough lessen in carelessness, my doctor explained the difficultly in closing a wound that is created by a 3 bladed object. After what it took for him to repair my Snuffer skewered hand, he tried to convince me to use a two bladed head because the wound is easier to close. Since then, I’ve never considered using 2-bladed head – the purpose of the head is to make a wound that doesn’t close.

So to me, a Snuffer is right up there with the wheel when it comes to design perfection.

Seems to bend the blade in slightly. Have to remove a lot of metal to get it sharpened when that happens. Really shows up with the Magic Marker.

bb you are one heck of a bowhunter and a man. I am not just saying that because we own the snuffer, i am saying that because your selflessness shows on how you help bowhunters everyday. Thank you so much bb for taking the time to show bowhunters an ease of sharpening. By the way your items are on the way to you, we had a backorder. Thanks again and merry xmas to everyone!!

Mike, did you mean bb or BB? I know your machine doesn't capitalize anything so its got me confused :-)

LH in all the years I have shot snuffers, that has never happened one time to me. There have been rare occasions where I have bent a blade or two by hitting something hard, but never once have I broken the braze. I did have several of the original Roothaar snuffers where the braze broke while practicing, but never on a critter.

And I can tell by the sound of the blades on a steel if one is bent or not as soon as I start to sharpen them. After a while you just get a "feel" and an "ear" for when they are razor sharp.

In the old days, when I first started using snuffers, I shot many critters with the factory grind. It's a very rough edge as is the edge achieved by filing. I know it kills and cuts, but not nearly as well as does a razor edge and here's why.

Any cut made on tissue with a rough edge makes a jagged cut if examined under a microscope. When blood clots, tiny string like pieces called fibrin strands hook on the cuts edges and stop blood from flowing. The rougher the edge, the easier it is for a body to stop the bleeding.

Let's take for example you cut your self with a rough piece of tin. It hurts like heck, and is cut deep, but it usually doesn't bleed that much as the fibrin grab onto the rough edges and stops the blood flow.

Now take a very sharp razor blade and just nick yourself while shaving, and it bleeds like a stuck pig. The reason for that is the fibrin strands have little or no edges to grab onto and thus the blood keeps flowing and clotting is delayed.

The same thing happens when we hunt and in identical hits the sharper head leaves a smoother surface on the cut it makes thus retarding the clotting process. That's why I prefer the razor sharp edge vs. the filed edge.

The rough edge might feel sharper after having gone through a critter, than a razor edge does, but it is what it does in the critter that really counts and not how it feels after its done its job.

Have a great bowhunt. BB

I used to sharpen my Snuffers to clean razor edge but noticed after shooting a deer that it wasn't sharp -- couldn't shave hair. That got me thinking: when did the head go dull? Right after it pierce through the hide or cut through a rib? Before it got to some of the tough, rubbery arteries in the boiler room?

On the other hand, with a finely filed edge I am still able to shave the hair from my arm after shooting through a deer. Plus the serrations grab tissue rather than deflect it.

I think Fred Bear had this one right (hard to argue with Fred). Perhaps you could argue that a serrated edge doesn't start out quite as sharp as a smooth edge but it also doesn't go dull as quick. ;0)

It appears to be a fairly soft (low Rockwell) steel.

GG

400 on the Brinell scale requires high pressure to file, at 500 a file removes almost no material, and at 600 the material cannot be filed (roughly 58 on the Rockwell C scale).

The hardness equates to about a 1040 Tool Steel (also used in knife making once in a while) or a 440 stainless (Brinell scale) for example.

On occasion, I've had to anneal them a bit just to be able to sharpen them. Meaning they were probably up in the 55 range on the Rockwell C scale.

BB we know who he means:)

I have been shooting the SS for a couple of years now and I really like them. I sharpen them the same way BB describes and they will shave hair easily. I find them to be extremely tough also. The other bb

There is no standard hardness that "equates" to a specific steel. Most steels perform best within a certain range, but it all depends on how it's heat treated. For instance, 440C is often tempered to 60 Rockwell, or higher, in knives.

A 44 Rockwell hardness is considered very soft by quality knife standards. If that's what is used, then that explains why the Snuffers are so easy to sharpen and tend to bend instead of break when they hit something hard.

It also means their edge retention is quite low relative to most quality knife blades...hence BB needing to sharpen his so often when he's hunting.

GG

You may also wish to try the XBLOCK with the stones set at a more acute angle than flat. Then finish with the Simmons Wheelie sharpener.

Pls. let me know your results with these 2 options. [email protected]

Gee, I don't know, maybe because they're both instruments intended to cut thru hair, hide, flesh, and sometimes bone. Call me silly.

"Most stainless broadhead blades on the market you will find below 50 and some below 40 on the C scale."

Yep, and that's precisely why nobody has separated themselves as a clear leader in the industry. Generally speaking, they're all made out of the same crap steels using the same poor forging methods. They're designed to be a disposable product, for the most part. I agree, Magnus is better than most, but there's still a LOT of room for improvement, IMO.

BTW, did you happen to notice the specs on the Silver Flame blades? 440 stainless steel hardened to 55-57RC and a .071" thickness. I wish they made a 3-blade.

Actually, the ideal broadhead, IMO, would be a milled, one-piece design of roughly the same dimensions as the Snuffer, only slightly thicker blades. It would be made of O1 tool steel, or possibly D2, treated to about 55-58RC...just like my favorite knives.

GG

I smacked Montecs into serious bone on bou this past year and you didn't really need to sharpen them after I pulled them out.

Both work just great if we do our job but there is no doubt the snuffer has a shallower cut angle and will probably penetrate a bit better.

GG the difference between a knife and a broadhead is the difference between and wide angle lens and a telephoto lens. Both basically do the same thing (knives and broadheads cut, and both type of lens help take pictures) but in much different manner and with a much different purpose and out come.

A knife, because of its intended purpose, needs to be able to hold an edge a lot longer than does a broadhead. My broadhead only needs to stay sharp long enough to go through a critter. That would be 6 feet at the max and more often than not, only 3 feet. The reason I sharpen my broadheads so often, is I like them to be sharp all the time, plus I like to sharpen them. I do it in respect for the animal and to insure when I hit something I have the sharpest head possible. How often do you sharpen yours?

Matt I'm an old man now, but when I was young and going to college I worked in a blacksmith shop to earn money to help put myself through college. It just so happened I was just a blacksmith helper, but ended up working for the best blacksmith in a large shop. We annealed and tempered a lot of steel in a lot of different ways, using many different types of steel and many different substances with which to temper, from powder, oils, salt brine solutions etc.

I ask this guy a lot of questions, and although I don't know near as much as Woody or Mike about making broadheads, or even tempering them, I did learn a bit about tempering when I worked in the blacksmith shop. Each tool and each type of steel has its own characteristics and needs and when tempered, they have to consider the use of that item.

Knives, although they cut the same type tissue as broadheads, do it under entirely different circumstance and that has to be considered in the tempering process.

From your statement it sounds like you want people to think the reason broadheads are tempered to rockwell 45 is to save money as that's the cheap way. That statement is just absurd. For the same cost they could be hardened considerably, if a harder temper was needed or what was best for the product. Time has proven, for its specific use, that to be the best hardness. It has nothing to do with saving a few pennies or being cheap as you infer. And one of Magnus's main goals is continually improve their products. And it seems funny to me that they would have a lifetime warranty on any, as you say "disposable product".

David, believe me, I have sharpened snuffers for many years. I‘ve tried doing them in every way imaginable, including like you suggest and have found that the way I do them now is the fastest and the heads come out the sharpest. I do acknowledge there are more than one way to skin a cat and what works great for one might not be best for someone else. I would suggest that those learning try each way and judge for themselves.

I will make this challenge to anyone. Let’s take a regular snuffer, with the old grind, an I will bet anyone I can get it sharper, from start to finish, in less time, and at the same time, keep the snuffer perfectly balanced and not effect the temper! The method I use will do that. It’s a simple, fast, easy way to get a sharp broadhead and can be done by anyone if they have the basic equipment and driven by the goal of shooting a sharp head each and every time they let an arrow fly at a critter.

Have a great bowhunt. BB

Thanks for sharing your technique. I downloaded and saved the your original posting 10/11/04 and then "bit the bullet" and dug down deep in my wallet and bought a 4x10 DMT stone, Blue and Red.

Now my Snuffers are sharper than ever, (and so are my knives!)

Roger Rothhaar showed me how to sharpen his heads with a bastard mill file and a whetstone, I think it was about 1979. I experimented with a couple other heads since then, but have always been happiest and most confident when I have my No. 1 touched up Snuffer screwed in to my No. 1 arrow.

Back in the 80's and 90's I used to file down the back edges and put an edge on them.

But since I began shooting a compound bow in the mid-90's it does not seem necessary to file the back edges because the arrows always go through the animal.

Thanks again. All the Best and Best of Luck

Instead of your usual smarminess, why don't you explain why a machined 3-blade out of D2 isn't feasible for production. Or, why a 2-blade out of 440 at 57 Rockwell is doable, but a 3-blade isn't. Is it the tool pressures within the CNC machines that make this process so difficult?

I was formerly a CEO for a large design and fabrication shop that made printing press equipment. We had 3 state-of-the-art CNC machines running 24-7. Many of the parts that we fabricated made broadheads look like child's play from my perspective. But, I'm admittedly not an expert on the nuts and bolts side of fabrication.

So, please share a little more of your knowledge with us and back off the snide remarks.

Gratefully,

GG

BTW, thanks again for the pics you sent. The muddy bull desktop at work has everyone that walks by do a double take.

The hole a Snuffer makes is........as BB said, Magicial. and not to mention Huge. I've changed bows a couple of times in the last 10 yrs. but not my broadhead.

And for you guys that just can't get them sharp and are gonna give up on them? PM me, I'll takem and pay the shipping.

Tom

Please accept my apologies if you feel I derailed it. I was attempting to discuss how different materials and heat-treating can effect sharpening and edge retention, which I feel is relevant to the topic. Unfortunately, my posts were perceived by some as "bashing" your beloved Snuffer and the discussion took a turn for the worse.

The Snuffers are a great blade relative to most of their competition, IMO, and I know many folks are grateful to know how you sharpen them.

GG

Mike Sohm says all the time that his heads aren't perfect, but they keep trying to improve upon them and he's one of the few that give a lifetime warranty.

I don't think you derailed this thread at all. As you know I have never been one to discourage debate, because through it issues arise and it gives ALL a chance to defend, correct and set the record straight. I think Woody was just trying to do that.

I try to keep an open mind in all things, weigh the facts and then try to make an informed decision. This approach has served me well in life and so I welcome all comments, whiter I agree or not. I take no offense.

Merry Christmas Matt and Happy New Year.

And of course you old hunter, have a great bowhunt BB

Same to you and yours, my friend.

GG

I just ordered one with extra fine and coarse like you described above! Thanks! I use Snuffers and Wensel Woodsmen and have been able to get them sharp, but not the way I want them. Now I have just started using some SnufferSS with my compound and I think the Extrafine side of the DMT will be just the ticket! I also have an EZE-Lap fine stone that I just got that Greywolf showed me.

Great thread and great info BB!!! I was with Greywolf and saw him take those new from the package Snuffers and pop hair in just a matter of minutes!!! He uses an EZE-Lap stone and goes thru the same basic process you use!!

It doesn't sound like you have actually tried the XBlock followed by the Simmon's wheelie sharpener.

A more acute edge correctly done will be sharper...that's why some guys here are trying the methods above to sharpen on a curve - to get a more acute angle.

That said, it may not make any real world difference.

Irregardless, one of the problems we all have is the inprecison of bh manufacturing. The blade grinds could be better and the blade spacing could be better. Some people don't think this is important since sharpening will eventually "get them there". I disagree. Starting with a more precisely made bh would help.

Magnus does a good job, but it could be better and there is some opportunity for another company to come along and fill that niche. Currently, it seems the hi-precision folks are mostly interested in making Steelforce type heads, but sooner or later...

The problem is, these bhs really need to made with a machined furrule to reach the next step, otherwise you can't get absolutely precise spacing of the blades. W/o that, sharpening results will never be optimized.

DuoSharp® DuoBase - Bench Stone Base

$16.99 Item #: B8250

a necessity?"

No, but it's really nice to use. Money well spent IMO

The link I have listed is one BB sent me. It is the link to where he purchased the 10" stone he is talking about. It is a coarse/extra fine 10" duosharp. I bought the 8" coarse/extra fine duosharp. It is on the way right now. Also, free shipping on an order of that amount(I think it is over $75).

The only problem with that steel is they only make it with the coarse-extra coarse combination. I wish they made it in an extra coarse-extra fine, but they don't. Therefore I recommend the coarse-extra fine steel. The coarse steel will take a bit more time, to remove lots of material (factory grind) (bad damage from a shot), but still do it reasonably fast. Once that's achieved, then the extra fine is the steel I like to use, but the fine is okay too.

I can assure you, if you're thinking about getting one of these, it is well worth the extra money to go with the longest steel available. There’s a reason I recommend this, as I have purchased a few shorter versions, and because of the short stroke, the process is tougher to do. Believe me on this one! I made that mistake several times, and will never make it again. The shorter steels can work, but like mentioned the longer strokes make it much easier, faster and I think better in the end.

Above is a picture of my finishing steel. It's 2 1-/2 inches wide and 12" long. For putting a very sharp edge on a snuffer, knife, chisel etc., I have found nothing better. The combination steels I suggest are great and do a super job. As you can see in my first post (the picture of all my steels) I’ve tried quite a few combinations. If one has the money to spend, there is nothing better than the extra coarse-coarse combo for taking off the grind or the damage from shooting. And there is not a better steel than the 12” solid steel in the finest grit made (see pictured above with this post) to put the finishing touches on a blade.

And like someone already mentioned, the holder is not a necessity, but sure is nice! I have bought them both ways, and the holder, if one can afford it, is well worth its price.

Have a great bowhunt. BB

Happy New Year to all. BB

That said, I have the stones BB has recommended and in fact have posted for years on the "Leatherwall" (bowsite's sister site for trad. archers)virtually the same system for getting good results with the Wensel Woodsman which as most here know is essentailly a lower profile Snuffer.

Zbone, yes just orient the Snuffer so the long axis of the head is perpendicular to the long axis of the stone. Hold the head with thumb and index finger and move sideways in both directions, counting the number pretty much as BB describes.

Woody, thanks for your comments. I pretty much agree with your points, but I believe the overall market shows people are willing to pay more for the very best.

I'd like to see a low profile SS with no blade vents. Imagine it, produce it...I predict "they will come"! lol That would be a wicked little broadhead.

I am just kidding about the cat of course. But I understand there are lots of ways to make heads sharp. I just happen to think the way I do it, is a very simple way, that results in razor sharp snuffers, in very little time, providing one has the proper steels or stones. It took me a lot of years to discover this method, as I had no one to teach me. It is a very easy method to learn, with a pretty minimum out lay, when one considers these steels will last a lifetime.

If one wanted the very best steels for THIS process(and money was no issue), the two pictured above is what I would choose and the ones I always use. The yellow one on the top is the steel I use to take off the factory edge (black dot). Once the grind is removed, I switch to the bottom steel and finish them on that (extra fine dmt steel). If one wanted them even sharper you could leather strop them. I have found that unnecessary, although I have done it in the past. I put myself through college barbing and thus I used to use a straight razor and so I have a very good leather strop.

When I place my broadhead in my quiver, I know it is razor sharp and will go through the length or the wide of a critter and come out sharp, unless I happened to hit a very hard bone. Since I use my knife and not my broadhead to gut my critters, it only has to stay sharp long enough to do the job intended and that is to go through an animal.

Once its done its job, I place it in my quiver, clean it when I get the first chance and sharpen it up for the next go round.

And once a guy gets sharpening his broadheads and sees how sharp he can get them, it becomes fun and pleasurable. I can not imagine hunting with a broadhead I hadn’t sharpened. It just becomes another enjoyable satisfaction of the bowhunting process.

Have a great bowhunt BB

I doubt many will try the Simmon's wheelie sharpener I mentioned above,figuring it's just another tunsten wheel sharpener. But it's not. Although small and inexpensive, it's a great finish sharpener that will even get Steelforce blades sharper than factory. Think about that.

The wheels are actually titanium. It gives a finer edge than tungsten. Fantastic for two blade bhs like Magnus & Zwickey as well as very hard to sharpen 3 blades like the Bodkin (which does not respond well to DMT).

Let me add something about the 3 blade Bodkin. It acutally is a GREAT bh that never hit the bigtime. Why? 1) very hard to sharpen 2) was marketed and priced as a cheap bh. 3) wrong color. Fact is, it is one tough SOB that is fabulous IF you can sharpen it! As I said, a bit lower profile with real metal...you'd have something great.

Great thread..

DJ

Try allprotools.com for good prices on dmt

Nick

LBB

I opened up a new package of Snuffer SS heads the other night and sharpened them up. While it took a lot longer than 5 minutes to go from the factory grind to my finished head, they did come out much sharper than they were when they came out of the package.

I did not realize how much pressure you can use with the extra coarse steel to remove the factory grind. Once I got that figured out, I reduced the time it took to get it sharp by half.

Thanks BB,

Nick

G

i picked up one of these and have some fine whet stones around the house to finish the edge with. make sure if you keep the pressure equal on either side or you will wind up with a steeper angle on one side.

G

Tony Sanders/aka"SNUFFER"

Here's a thread I did some years back and its a very easy, sure way to get snuffers razor sharp.

Have a great bow hunt. BB

Back to the top.

I got this list of supplies from a site where they talk about archery...

"Well, I decided I was going to do it right and get some quality tools that will hopefully last me many years. Sold off my climbing treestand I never used to pick up what I needed to do the job probably better than I need to, but I'm kind of anal about these kind of things. I went to sharpeningsupplies.com picked up the following tools: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DM...it-P404C3.aspx

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/10...p-P264C11.aspx

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Gr...nd-P26C11.aspx

Like I say, I'm sure it's probably overkill, but this should be all I need and then some for the forseeable future. Thanks for the suggestions. "

I shoot a broadhead league all summer. We shoot broadheads through cardboard animal silhouettes and then into sand piles. I wanted to see if I could get one shaving sharp after a summer of sand piles. It might take a coarse stone to get started.

A large fine grit file costs $8. Finish on cardboard, leather, your pants leg, anything that can be pulled tight or has a smooth surface, and you will be shaving with them in no time. The key isn't the tools he uses. The key is the reality that he removes the factory grinds, then cleans that edge by honing. He accomplishes that better with the tools he chooses. Anyone can do the same, with the same results, with adequate tools of their choice. they need not cost a days work.

I'm not being disrespectful. I know the costs of the stones as I have bought them for the same purpose. I just prefer cheaper. I now have a lifetime times 4 of diamond stones that don;t do anything but sharpen knives. You tube is full of much cheaper but, just as effective and fast ways to do this. Search Rick Barbee as a good start. To each their own. God Bless

A file is very easy to use to take down the factory edge on Snuffers or WWs (which I used to use). VPA's come sharp enough that you won't have to do this until you hit dirt or rocks.

The stone that I use to finish them is a fine diamond stone from Cabela's that is 8" long. No doubt that BB is right and that longer is better (heh heh).

Your mileage may vary.

Its so simple- and gets any 3 blade fixed head popping sharp with no burr