My first Mechanical
General Topic
Contributors to this thread:
cnelk 29-Jan-19
PAbowhunter1064 29-Jan-19
PAbowhunter1064 29-Jan-19
Paul@thefort 29-Jan-19
midwest 29-Jan-19
cnelk 29-Jan-19
JohnMC 29-Jan-19
GF 29-Jan-19
Bowfreak 29-Jan-19
Ambush 29-Jan-19
Paul@thefort 29-Jan-19
GF 29-Jan-19
Matt 29-Jan-19
craig@work 29-Jan-19
GF 29-Jan-19
Ambush 29-Jan-19
Ambush 29-Jan-19
12yards 29-Jan-19
IdyllwildArcher 29-Jan-19
cnelk 29-Jan-19
GF 29-Jan-19
GF 29-Jan-19
Matt 29-Jan-19
Teeton 29-Jan-19
Teeton 29-Jan-19
Teeton 30-Jan-19
Owl 30-Jan-19
APauls 01-Feb-19
Trial153 01-Feb-19
T Mac 01-Feb-19
HEAD DOCTOR 04-Feb-19
Beendare 04-Feb-19
ELKMAN 05-Feb-19
APauls 05-Feb-19
From: cnelk
29-Jan-19

cnelk's embedded Photo
cnelk's embedded Photo
Came across a good deal on some StickTrick mechanicals the other day, so I picked up a 3 pack for $19.

Since I’ve never shot/used a mechanical before, I have a question.

There are 3 grooves on the front on the BH that the rubber O ring can be placed.

Does it matter what groove the O ring is on? Further back? Front groove? Middle groove?

29-Jan-19
I'm not too familiar with those Raptor Tricks, but I do recall hearing that those o-ring slots are for different draw weights. I would call the folks at Slick Trick to confirm, but that's my guess.

29-Jan-19

PAbowhunter1064's Link
Here's a link, with some videos explaining. Hope this helps, and good luck with them!

From: Paul@thefort
29-Jan-19

Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
exit
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
exit
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
exit, arrow entered opposite front shoulter, destroyed the lungs.
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
exit, arrow entered opposite front shoulter, destroyed the lungs.
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
I will not use these for elk and will stick with VAPs
Paul@thefort's embedded Photo
I will not use these for elk and will stick with VAPs
1. the top ring is for light weight bows, ie, under 30-40 lbs

2. the middle ring is for heaver bow, ie, 50# plus

3. the bottom ring is for x bow

When I killed my Coues buck with one of these mech, I had a pass through at 22 yards, and found the arrow and BH 30 yards away, still intact and ready to be used again. I set the oring on the middle ring

From: midwest
29-Jan-19
Paul, How big was the entrance hole?

From: cnelk
29-Jan-19
Paul

What do you consider the top / bottom ring of the mechanical?

From: JohnMC
29-Jan-19
I would think it is the opposite of what Paul said bottom being closest to the arrow.

From: GF
29-Jan-19
Entrance wound SHOULD be no larger than the head with blades in closed position. Otherwise you’d be dulling the blades on bone (ribs, ideally) instead of preserving the edges for the stuff that you DO want to be cutting cleanly.

From: Bowfreak
29-Jan-19
Middle slot should be for compound.

From: Ambush
29-Jan-19
^^ So, the exact opposite of a fixed COC ?

Another booster for Over the Top mechs.

From: Paul@thefort
29-Jan-19
John is correct, the top slot is for x bow,

the middle for compounds,

the bottom, closest to the arrow if for light weight bows.

The BH does not open on contact with the hide, ie, cutting the hide, but pushes through and starts cutting once the head is past the hide. Smaller enterance hole.

From: GF
29-Jan-19
“^^ So, the exact opposite of a fixed COC ?“

That’s why blade profile is important.

Both options come with compromises as Standard Equipment, so you have to ignore the marketing hype, look at what has worked over time, and think for yourself.

I designed a mechanical myself and went with an OTT for that specific reason, but no matter how much I liked what I came up with, I still don’t think it yields enough up-side to make sense.

From: Matt
29-Jan-19
Many MBH's will cause an entrance that larger than the closed diameter due to hide stretch. This is yet another place where actual experience trumps internet opinion.

From: craig@work
29-Jan-19
Matt, I’ve seen you chime in on various mech threads. You still using vortex? I’ve consistently been a Magnus user but am considering switching to a mech this year just to try it....

Sorry if I derailed this thread tho...

Craig

From: GF
29-Jan-19
“Many MBH's will cause an entrance that larger than the closed diameter due to hide stretch. ”

You get a bigger slit when the hide gets stretched before it begins to get cut; the holes from an old Thunderhead 125 were WAY bigger than the holes from a Hellrazor; not because of the difference in width but because the hide was getting cut along the LENGTH of the BLADE rather than the WIDTH of the HEAD.

The roll-over blades on the head in this thread are probably designed NOT to cut hide (or not so much) so that there will be ample leverage to pop out the blades and get them free of the O-ring so that they can deploy.

Which is good unless you hit the scapula and those spurs get hung up on meat and hide while they are trying to lever open a blade that’s being held down by bone....

I don’t believe my bows have enough Oomph to do that except under maybe the rarest of occasions & circumstances...

From: Ambush
29-Jan-19

Ambush's embedded Photo
Spitfire over the top Entrance
Ambush's embedded Photo
Spitfire over the top Entrance
Ambush's embedded Photo
Close up of entrance
Ambush's embedded Photo
Close up of entrance
Ambush's embedded Photo
Exit
Ambush's embedded Photo
Exit
Ambush's embedded Photo
1 1/2" cut, trocar style point.
Ambush's embedded Photo
1 1/2" cut, trocar style point.

From: Ambush
29-Jan-19

Ambush's embedded Photo
Ambush's embedded Photo
Very thick hair but thin skinned. Cut ribs on both sides and head was in fine shape and still straight.

From: 12yards
29-Jan-19
Welcome to the dark side.

29-Jan-19
Brad, the power of the dark side is undeniable, but never works out in the end. See Stars Wars episodes 4-6.

It's not too late for you.

From: cnelk
29-Jan-19
The only reason I purchased the mechs is right after PNY Omaha, I’ll be heading north of there about an hour and hunting turkey with a buddy for a few days.

Then it will be back to the ‘Light Side’ and fixed blades.

From: GF
29-Jan-19
Those gigantic entrance ones are exactly why I would never consider using that type of a mechanical. I just don’t trust that I would have enough inertia to drive a hole that size through a couple of ribs.

The SlickTrick head at the top of this thread should not open at all until the point has penetrated to the depth those spurs, so the tips of the blades aren’t going to start cutting until they’re inside the thoracic cavity. Should considereably reduce the resistance to penetration.... until you have to smash those opened blades out through the ribcage from the inside. Depending on how fast the animal is moving at that point (and in which direction), that could take a truckload of Force, violently applied.

From: GF
29-Jan-19
And by the way....

As far as black bears go...

We’ve got a guy on Leatherwall who is on record as saying that s Bear is about as hard to kill as a jackrabbit.

He has killed north of 300 of them as a bounty-hunter for the timber companies and a couple each year for eating.... for about 60 years.

And FWIW, he’s been using the same supply of Ace Express broadheads the whole time, pretty much. Says he last bought heads in ‘58....

And those bark-peeler bears were killed with a kid’s #35 recurve.

From: Matt
29-Jan-19
Craig, yes I still use Vortex. I've been shooting them for over 25 years with great results.

From: Teeton
29-Jan-19
I've been shooting my rocket steel head 100's for 20 plus years. Never had any problems with them. Of 7 elk I've killed 4 I shot with the steelhead 2 pass thrus, the two that didn't pass thur was a 11 yd dead center frontal and the other was a 54 yr that hit right behind the right shoulder hitting the far side humerus shattering it.. These heads do have a small entrance hole but just penetrate so well. They also are very strong. I believe that their penetration factor is due to only being 1 and 1/8 inch opened, have well swept back blades and with no vents in the blades to catch on muscle and stuff.. I remember shooting a bear with them, the bear was about 18 yds out, heavily quartering way. The arrow hit right in front of the left hind quarter, exiting in front of the right front shoulder. I've been thinking of trying a different head the last couple of years, but just talk myself out of doing it. Especially that I'm only paying $19.95 for 3. Every now and then when I'm in the Pro Shop I pick up a pack. I guess I have about a half a dozen packs of them right now in my cabinet.

From: Teeton
29-Jan-19

From: Teeton
30-Jan-19

From: Owl
30-Jan-19
"My first Mechanical"

-So you decided to give up killin' stuff? ;)

From: APauls
01-Feb-19
If I was to choose an over the top I've had way too much success with Rockets to belittile them. Excellent mech head. Got curious a few years back and dabbled with a rage hypodermic. As they argue, you are only guaranteed one hole. After watching the results it was tough to argue that point as well. One big entrance is plenty with that kind of damage. Both arguments have merit. Tell me where you want to hit I'll tell you what to use.

From: Trial153
01-Feb-19
I bene liking raptor tricks a lot, really good results with them

From: T Mac
01-Feb-19

T Mac's embedded Photo
T Mac's embedded Photo
Spitfire.....what’s not to like?

From: HEAD DOCTOR
04-Feb-19

HEAD DOCTOR's embedded Photo
HEAD DOCTOR's embedded Photo
Vortex 2-1/2 inch two blade.

From: Beendare
04-Feb-19
I love mech heads for turkeys....they knock them silly.

From: ELKMAN
05-Feb-19
Yay for Mechs!

From: APauls
05-Feb-19
Beendare I can't remember what Pat used. That turkey sure was silly.

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