Man cave question
General Topic
Contributors to this thread:
Drop tine 22-Sep-21
Vonfoust 22-Sep-21
smarba 22-Sep-21
Habitat 22-Sep-21
BOHNTR 22-Sep-21
Tilzbow 22-Sep-21
dnovo 22-Sep-21
Norseman 22-Sep-21
rooster 22-Sep-21
Stix 22-Sep-21
deerhunter72 22-Sep-21
spike78 22-Sep-21
JL 22-Sep-21
Dale06 22-Sep-21
deerhunter72 22-Sep-21
Fields 22-Sep-21
shade mt 23-Sep-21
shade mt 23-Sep-21
BULELK1 23-Sep-21
Al Dente Laptop 23-Sep-21
Zebrakiller 23-Sep-21
cnelk 23-Sep-21
TGbow 23-Sep-21
Grey Ghost 23-Sep-21
Aftermerle 23-Sep-21
Mule Power 23-Sep-21
BOHNTR 23-Sep-21
ben h 23-Sep-21
BULELK1 24-Sep-21
FrontierMulie 24-Sep-21
Drop tine 24-Sep-21
BULELK1 25-Sep-21
standswittaknife 25-Sep-21
Stix 25-Sep-21
cnelk 25-Sep-21
jdbbowhunter 25-Sep-21
bowbender77 30-Sep-21
From: Drop tine
22-Sep-21
So I finally finished framing in the basement and am looking to put plywood/OSB on some of the walls in the main rec room. Is 3/8 sufficient or is it necessary to go with 1/2" or 5/8"? I am going to put some backing on the areas where larger mounts may go regardless, but I want the option to put mounts anywhere. Thanks.

From: Vonfoust
22-Sep-21
Married? Kids? Pro tip: don't finish it. If you make it too nice they will want to go there and then it's not your man cave anymore.

From: smarba
22-Sep-21
3/8" seems pretty thin to support screws for taxidermy. I'd go at least 1/2", but 3/4" better. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in shortly.

From: Habitat
22-Sep-21
If I was using OSB I assume you are using finished side out.I would put some 2x6 pieces in between studs and take a pic before sheeting

From: BOHNTR
22-Sep-21
I sheered mine with 3/4”……can hang a mount anywhere I need to

From: Tilzbow
22-Sep-21
I’d go with 5/8” minimum and 3/4” would be preferable. You might want to do a full size on a nature scene/rock at some point in the future and those can weigh much more than a simple shoulder mount. Or, what if you decide to hunt moose or other large critters?

From: dnovo
22-Sep-21
In a new house I built for a customer 3 years ago we covered all the walls in the trophy room with 3/4 OSB. Now this is a 30’ x 40’ room with vaulted ceilings and he wanted to hang mounts anywhere. We then drywalled over it. Took 36 sheets 4’x8’

From: Norseman
22-Sep-21
Go with a full size beer fridge. Dorm room size just won’t cut it.

From: rooster
22-Sep-21
I don't particularly like to screw into OSB, through yes, I'm an old school plywood guy, and I don't trust OSB to hold up.

From: Stix
22-Sep-21
Check with county code. Most require 5/8" in living spaces.

From: deerhunter72
22-Sep-21

deerhunter72's embedded Photo
deerhunter72's embedded Photo
deerhunter72's embedded Photo
deerhunter72's embedded Photo
When I built mine I decided to go with 1”x6” rough cut lumber. Got it from a local sawmill and it was multiple species of wood. Bought a whole pallet that ended up doing the all of the walls and ceiling. I like it for the look and also because I can hang anything anywhere. The only downfall is that there is always some shrinkage. I put the boards up as tight as I could get them but now there are gaps. This was very cost effective at the time as well.

From: spike78
22-Sep-21
1/2” is for the ceiling.

From: JL
22-Sep-21
DH72.....I actually like the gap in the wood. It gives it a bit more rustic/barn look.

From: Dale06
22-Sep-21
I had a house built a year ago. The builder recommended 5/8” osb. It’s glued and screwed to the studs. Then there is Sheetrock over that. I have elk, and eland and many smaller heads hung on it. It’s working fine.

From: deerhunter72
22-Sep-21

deerhunter72's embedded Photo
Day of install. Not many gaps
deerhunter72's embedded Photo
Day of install. Not many gaps
JL, thanks. The gaps don’t bother me, I knew it would happen. Definitely makes it rustic, maybe not the right look for everyone. Here’s a pic from the day of install.

Can’t get the pics to orientate. Tried editing.

From: Fields
22-Sep-21
Vonfoust knows things....... I'm living his advice....

From: shade mt
23-Sep-21
i would lath it out with 2x4 ,16" or 2' O/C flat and anchored to your basement walls then your OSB or drywall .

concrete and block hold moisture, even though it seems dry. If you are really set on fastening your OSB directly to the walls, I would at least drylok them first.

OSB does not hold screws quite as good as regular plywood, but it holds up better to moisture. Regular plywood will delaminate...OSB will not.

We use nothing but advancetech sheeting on subfloors...it is Waaaay better than plywood or regular OSB..

Zip wall is OSB with a rubberized coating on one side, we use it for exterior sheeting and is better than conventional OSB and tyvek

Tapconing zip wall to the foundation with the rubber toward the wall might be an option, but even that may trap moisture....and your right back to lath and a airspace.

From: shade mt
23-Sep-21
If your "framing" you finished is referring to lathing the basement walls, my apology for such a long winded reply above.

Just keep in mind whatever you screw into the screw is only as strong as the backing. If anchoring to OSB alone, more is better.

Personally I'd feel a whole lot better anchoring screws holding larger mounts into studs.

From: BULELK1
23-Sep-21

BULELK1's embedded Photo
BULELK1's embedded Photo
I think 3/8 would be fine if you are putting some type of tongue-n-groove over it.

I've had no problems at all with mine done that way.

Good luck, Robb

23-Sep-21
3/4" plywood, no OSB. I hang heavy (a few hundred pounds) switch gear off of 3/4" plywood with lag bolts, and have never had a problem.

From: Zebrakiller
23-Sep-21

Zebrakiller's embedded Photo
Zebrakiller's embedded Photo
I did 1/2 plywood then drywalled

From: cnelk
23-Sep-21
@ STIX - "Check with county code. Most require 5/8" in living spaces."

Id like to see that code book

From: TGbow
23-Sep-21
Some nice man caves there fellas..Id go with 3/4

From: Grey Ghost
23-Sep-21
Whatever you use, if there are doors and windows involved, be sure your overall wall thickness matches the width of the door and window jambs. Otherwise, you will have some tricky trim details to deal with.

Matt

From: Aftermerle
23-Sep-21
If it was mine, like many have stated 3/4 plywood. Over the course of my life I have learned it's cheaper to do it right, and once.

From: Mule Power
23-Sep-21
No OSB. Plywood and if you’re hanging mounts bigger than deer… elk, moose etc go 3/4. Think about how many threads of a screw actually do the work in 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Not many!

From: BOHNTR
23-Sep-21

BOHNTR's embedded Photo
BOHNTR's embedded Photo
GG brings up a good point about allowing for window trim, etc. Wasn’t my builders first game room…..3/4” plywood, then drywall and 80/20 finish.

From: ben h
23-Sep-21

ben h's Link
The attached link shows pullout values for OSB panels and thicker definitely has higher values, but your main force is going to be shear, not withdrawal. If your area is not very large, who cares and go with thicker or block areas you know will have higher loads? If its large, you may want to sharpen your pencil and figure out what you really need. If your finish material is only drywall, then the strength is only from the OSB or plywood. If you finish with T&G pine or some of the barn material (I think looks really nice), then you'll get more capacity from the finish material than you will from the OSB or plywood. I don't have any mounts myself, but I am a structural engineer.

From: BULELK1
24-Sep-21
I did mine opposite of most of you guys, I did sheetrock over the studs/insulation, then the 3/8 plywood then the t-n-g.

Some dang good advice here for sure,

Robb

24-Sep-21
I went with 3/4 OSB over the drywall already in place. Then I put a LVT flooring planks over the OSB. Hope to be able to hang stuff anywhere without having to find a stud. Still waiting for my trophies from South Africa to get done at taxidermist from 2019. Darn Covid.

From: Drop tine
24-Sep-21
Thanks for the advice guys, some good info here and some great rooms. The outer walls are already insulated and have moisture barrier done. I did not like the half pony walls around the outside so on half of them I put a new wall inside it.

I am planning on putting drywall over the plywood other than one feature wall that will have barn wood from my Grandparents first house.

I have started to put some blocking in places where there may be larger mounts for added reinforcement.

I will come back and add some pictures of the finished product when I finally get it done.

From: BULELK1
25-Sep-21

BULELK1's embedded Photo
BULELK1's embedded Photo
Good for you

Looking forward to your updates

No need to go overboard on to much reinforcement's.

My walls have plenty of weight on them all the way up to 12ft.

Good luck, Robb

25-Sep-21

standswittaknife's embedded Photo
standswittaknife's embedded Photo
I went with three-quarter plywood it as it is by far the strongest and with some of these head mounts I just don’t wanna worry about them falling.. it’s a buy ones cry once type of scenario but while building our house it was a no-brainer for me.

From: Stix
25-Sep-21
Sorry, not sure of code for plywood. Didn't read your question correctly. I thought you were talking about sheetrock

From: cnelk
25-Sep-21
The only time 5/8” Sheetrock is required is for Fire protection.

That’s for both IRC & IBC ( International Residential Code & International Building Code - Commercial)

From: jdbbowhunter
25-Sep-21
If you know where mounts are going I'd put 2x8 blocking between studs .Then drywall over.

From: bowbender77
30-Sep-21
Lots to think about when planning a trophy room for sure and some different ways to get it done as it relates to cost and your situation. One thing that I found helpful was to take detail photos of all the framing before any sheet goods were hung. Helps a bunch. Good luck!

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