Sitka Gear
Metal "D" loop
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
T43 03-Sep-11
The Rooster 03-Sep-11
Big Daddy 03-Sep-11
midwest 03-Sep-11
nehunter 03-Sep-11
Shadow Man 03-Sep-11
TradTech 03-Sep-11
roger 03-Sep-11
Big Daddy 03-Sep-11
Bill in MI 03-Sep-11
Bill in MI 03-Sep-11
r-man 03-Sep-11
T43 03-Sep-11
sundowner 03-Sep-11
ChrisK1977 03-Sep-11
Big Daddy 04-Sep-11
Russ Koon 04-Sep-11
T43 05-Sep-11
Hunting555 06-Sep-11
stagetek 06-Sep-11
T43 06-Sep-11
Hunting555 06-Sep-11
T43 06-Sep-11
Hunting555 07-Sep-11
From: T43
03-Sep-11
I have had a problem with my peep turning. I had a twist put in the string but that didn't completely resolve the problem. The guy at the shop suggested either an alignment loop or a tubed peep. I picked up both and I would like to try the metal loop to see if it fixes the problem but I was curious if anyone knew of any problems associated with this set up.

From: The Rooster
03-Sep-11
They take like 10fps off your arrow and add lots of noise. I would stick with rope...

From: Big Daddy
03-Sep-11
I've used one for years, Ultra Nok XL, and you can't beat them. Peep is always turned properly, I prefer the smoother release using my Tru fire release than I got from a rope ;loop and you'll NEVER wear it out.

From: midwest
03-Sep-11
Get a quality string and the peep turning problem goes away along with most tuning problems.

From: nehunter
03-Sep-11
Steel loop is noisy. Steel on steel! My buddy uses one and its noticeable.

From: Shadow Man
03-Sep-11
Don't go with the steep string loop. I had one of those for a while and ended up with all kinds of problems; including target panic. I've had the dang thing hang up on my release and after "releasing" the arrow, I've been able to close the release and let the bow down with the arrow still unfired. I had hang-fires, got smacked in the face with my release hand during hang-fires and all kinds of mental target panic problems since.

Shadow Man

From: TradTech
03-Sep-11
Make it easy on yourself, just tie a d-loop on and forget about it. There is no advantage to a metal d-loop.

From: roger
03-Sep-11
Metal D loops are about the worst thing I've encountered in the 15 years or so that I helped others tune their bows. Pitch it.

From: Big Daddy
03-Sep-11
Like I said earlier I've used one since back in the late 80's and have nothing but good to say about it...the poster whom stated he had target panic,etc. should know that target panic is mental nothing to do with what type of loop you use or anything else except your brain.

From: Bill in MI
03-Sep-11
...which can be magnified by mutliple equipment malfunctions and contributes to future twitches...

From: Bill in MI
03-Sep-11

From: r-man
03-Sep-11
why not use the rubber guided one that ties to secondary cable. it lines up peep, keep some tubing in pack cause it does dry rote.

From: T43
03-Sep-11
I picked up both but I figured it would be easier to put on a new loop than a new peep. I had some concerns about attaching a piece of metal to the middle of my string. I didn't open it and saved the receipt. I guess I'll try the tube peep before the metal loop.

From: sundowner
03-Sep-11
Get a high quality string from Korbin, trash the metal nock loop and the rubber tube. The metal nock will slow your arrows, and believe me, that rubber tube won't break in your bow case when not is use. It will break when you draw it to your eye. Not fun.

From: ChrisK1977
03-Sep-11
Had one once, and then took it off and had a rope loop put on. Screws kept coming loose and made a lot of noise.

From: Big Daddy
04-Sep-11
try lok-tite for loose screws or instal it properly to begin with

From: Russ Koon
04-Sep-11
The string loop is the better way to go. There's a reason or two why the metal loops have been around for many years but the string loops are many times more popular among experienced shooters.

The string loop will also pull the peep into correct alignment as you draw, without the need for rubber tubing, because it is tight on the string and is pulled tight again with each draw, which assures you that it won't have vibrated loose, like screws can do.

I have read that a bit of string wax on the loop as it's installed will help even more in it's "grip" on the serving, but I can't attest to that myself, as I've found the loop to have enough grip without it to do the job very well.

If the loop ever does get accidentally twisted out of position, it can simply be twisted back into position in a couple seconds without tools and with little movement.

They are extremely durable, but if one should ever fail in the field, it can be replaced without tools or any expertise other than being able to tie a simple knot, if you have one already prepared and shot in with you. And keeping that spare is extremely easy, since it takes up hardly any space and is feather light.

Even the shortest practical loops can be replaced in the field this way. If you can tie your own bootlaces, you're more than qualified.

Good to have one already prepared and shot in with you, because if you don't and replacement should be needed (rare, but it could happen, and you probably know about Murphy's Law), you'll need to trim the new one to length after installation and burn the ends, which could be problematic in weather, plus there will be some strecthing as the new loop is shot in for a few shots. It can also be done in the field, but it's worth the bother to be prepared with a replacement ahead of time, IMO.

The string loop is lghter on the string as well, helping performance slightly, and eliminating the risk of equipment damage or minor personal injury from impact with the heavier metal loop.

The string loop is also the least expensive (nice when the best solution happens to be the cheapest). A foot of the loop material is avaible at your archery shop for about the same price or less than the cheapest metal loops, and is enough for three string loops.

You can also adjust your draw to best fit yourself by replacing your loop with one slightly longer. This is a less efficient permanent solution to the draw being a poor fit, but is an economical way to adjust it to determine if you would be better fit with a slightly longer draw length bow or cam.

Some of the above reasons will also apply to my choice of the loop that I can tie in myself, as opposed to the served-in ones that would probably need a trip to at least camp, or for most of us, to an archery shop to replace if needed.

From: T43
05-Sep-11
I decided to stick with the string loop. I had yesterday off so I took my time, cut the old loop off, measured everything out, set up the new sting loop, tied it pulled it, melted the ends, re adjusted the arrow rest as the new loop was a tad higher, took a few practice shots and put every one on target from every distance I tried. So far everything looks great. I figure I'll hold on to the tube thing until the season is over just to be safe but I plan on returning it and the metal loop in a few weeks. Thanks for all the comments, it helped sway me to just starting over and getting it right.

From: Hunting555
06-Sep-11
Here is another alternative...

You still use the string loop, but install a "speed-noc" (Sorry, not sure about the name) It's a nock with a little tab on the back that your arrow nock aligns. They claim it weights the same as a metal crimp on nock set.

I switched to one when I put on a new string on my old bow 2 years ago and it works great. Not noisy like the metal loops. Didn't need it with the new string, but just a "peace of mind" thing.

My bow I got back in November has a factory string and it is a "must have" on that stupid string!

Would have switched out the string already but I don't have a press that I can press the new bow with.

From: stagetek
06-Sep-11
T43, When you throw the metal loop in the garbage, make sure you throw the rubber tube in with it ! Get a good string and a string loop.

From: T43
06-Sep-11
Not throwing them away, I kept the receipt and never opened them.

Hunting 555 tell me more about this device. How much and where can I find one? I think I have the issue resolved but I'm a bit spooked that it will return at the worst time.

From: Hunting555
06-Sep-11

Hunting555's Link
The piece around the string is about the size of a metal nock set but it has a little plastic tab that sticks up (or down) in the back. You tie your string loop above and below it just like a normal nock.

All the pictures show it with the "nock set" on top with the tab pointing down, like most normal nock set you see.

I do mine just the opposite. I put the "nock set" on the bottom and point the tab up. The string loop knot keeps the arrow from sliding up the string.

Reason I do this is because if you look at the arrow/string relation at full draw, my way the string is straight up and down thru the nock. The conventional way the string is angled thru the nock. Don't know why, but that's the way it is. Someone pointed it out in a forum and I noticed it was true.

Truthfully, it probably doesn't matter, but I picky like that.

I attached a link to one on Sportsmans Guide's website.

From: T43
06-Sep-11
That looks like a good bit of insurance. I have the factory Bowtech strings and I bought the bow this spring so I hope the strings aren't worn out yet. I suppose it could be possible but there is no way I can afford new strings this year so I'll try and pick one of those up.

From: Hunting555
07-Sep-11
Yeah understand the whole "Bowtech String" thing. That's what my new bow is.

I can't wait to be able to afford a press so I can put a new string and cables on mine.

Watched my son shooting my old bow last night and that peep comes straight back and never twists even the slightest amount!

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