Easton HIT System Feedback???
Equipment
Is the Easton HIT insert system as big a pain in the butt as it appears to be (compared to standard inserts) or is it worth the trouble to be able to shoot even thinner shafts like Axis and FMJ?
I'm used to putting glue on an insert and moving on with life, but looking at HIT seems like you need a chemistry major to mix up epoxy and an dual degree in engineering to seat the insert in the shaft.
Thoughts?
It's so simple an idiot, like myself, can easily do it. I am mechanically stupid. My mechanical IQ is an easy 70. My overall IQ is maybe a 75 but that's beside the point
You literally squeeze two tubes out, swirl them together, then put the insert in and push down with a little tool that is provided. An ape could do it. Literally.
They are extremely easy to install. Mix 2 substances, touch small amount on insert and use applicator to seat in shaft. Now getting them out is not so easy
Easy enough, for sure. My only complaint with the HIT insert is lack of lateral wall support. But I like my Axis enough to make short footings to solve that problem. And I will say it’s more of a problem if you shoot long broadheads, like I do. But I also like my broadheads enough to go the extra step.
won't use them and consequently the arrows that do simply for the reason stated above.
Hde have you considered the BAR?
I’m in my second month of axis 260 pro’s with 50 grain brass inserts, bar 6 collars, and 125gr heads. Zero and I mean zero complains so far. I haven’t hit anything hard yet, just bounced a couple off the dirt. So far so good.
I've used the .204 arrows (Easton Axis and Victory RIP). You can either use the HIT insert or you can use an "outsert", which goes into the shaft and then sticks 1/2" out to line up with a 5/16" head. I think I prefer the HIT for durability and alignment. The installation of a HIT insert is much easier than it looks.
You actually lose strength with an outsert unless it comes back over the shaft a 1/2” plus.
I guess it’s easy for me because I make my own footings, but I can see the drawback for others.
If you can make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich you can glue in HIT’s . Been useing them for 10 years or more with no problems.
Uscdryder - in truth, really can't see a reason to hidden inserts in the first place. I'm not convinced it even offers much of an advantage to anything.
This is great feedback, thanks. May be simpler than I thought.
Rough inside of shaft and the insert and wipe rough residue off with alcohol or acetone, mix the 2-part glue, put glue on insert, stick insert in shaft and use green seating tool to push the insert to the designed length. Then remove the green seating tool from inside shaft. Allow adequate time for glue to dry.
You must use BAR when using a BH to prevent bludging or breaking of shaft end when arrow impacts target.
Used axis 400s like Ambush did with a home made footing but made them 1in long. I was shooting a 57 lb. bow. And if I hit a tree they wound penetrate better than any other arrow I tried (figured it was due to the field point and sleeve being a bigger diameter than the arrow) Also I used hot melt on the inserts and had zero problems. Quit doing this because of going to a 340 victory arrow. It was a lot of work to build but was a VERY tough arrow!
Ok now it appears something called BAR needs to be added to the process. Please elaborate
Only on certain broadheads but I use them on every bh I shoot and just keep using them over. Get them at Lancaster Archery. ...cheap. Broadhead Adaptor Ring....
https://www.rayzor-vpa.com/Custom-Shop-CTR-Punch-Footers-204-CTR-PUNCH-FTR-204.htm
I build some RIP TKO's with the 50g brass and the VPA footers very happy so far. better than the BAR to me
I prefer standard inserts but have shot the HIT system in the past. The Axis is a great arrow but personally I don't want to fool with the HIT system. It is definitely not difficult to use, I just prefer standard diameter, standard insert shafts.
Bou,
Here is all about BAR's. I purchase mine from Bowhunter Supply Store in GA. Good folks, fair prices and excellent delivery of orders.
I love the HIT inserts. Been shooting FMJ Deep6 since they came out and shot Axis before that and before them I shot the FMJs. I get the footers for the Deep6 arrows from Rayzor along with the Deep6 VPAs. Simple to put in. As stated above, idiot proof.
Vpa footers with the flange are a huge step up from bars. It will not only protect the face of the shaft it will also protect from lateral for applied to the front of the arrow.
Any photos of these set ups readily available
Axis arrows (HIT) came out in 2004. They are still going strong 14 yrs later and many other brands have tried to compete. If they were as bad as the naysayers make it appear they would have faded out long ago...
I switched about 10 yrs ago and never looked back, and have never had an issue with them. I feel that the Axis is the best overall arrow, with weight, straightness, increase penetration and less wind drift from the smaller shaft. A big advantage I saw with the HIT was my broad heads spin better. The last arrows I had it was common for 5 out of 12 wobble a bit when spin testing broadheads. My axis pretty much spin true all the time, and if not- its the broadhead's fault. Also easton sells the 50/75 gr brass HIT insert which is great at adding weight upfront.
I tried the bar, and footing arrows, but it was extra work not needed. the footings would catch on my bag target when pulling out. I shoot a 300 axis so the wall is thick and have never had an issue unless hitting rocks, which any arrow/insert would break on.
Here is a picture of a BEA rampage with a 75 grain HIT insert, i epoxy the VPA footer on. The flange acts as a bar and adds even more strength to the whole build especially if any lateral force is applied
I've been shooting the axis for over 10 years and have killed quite a few animals with them & never had an issue, though I have spoken to a few ppl who have mentioned the folding issue. Is the VPA footer the same diameter as the axis? I have both the regular 340's & Traditionals, though there is a slight weight difference I wonder if the traditional would take the footer the same w the "traditional camo" on it? Learn something new every day!
The overall straightness of the arrow is what causes the broadhead to spin true, a hidden insert has nothing to do with it.
An arrow with a tolerance straightness of .001 will have a better true spin repeatability than one of .003 and better still than .006
Why couldn’t someone use a Gold Tip accu tough kinetic insert in an Easton Axix arrow when both have an I.D. of .204?
Steel outsert and a choice of aluminum or steel post.
Steel outsert and a choice of aluminum or steel post.
For big animal hunting (elk) and increased FOC I prefer an Outsert System when using a .165 or .204 ID arrow.
They are easy to set up. Most of my Easton Axis nano whatevers are lost, broke, or the tips mushroomed. I'd get another dozen if I can get them on a good sale again.
They are easy to set up. Most of my Easton Axis nano whatevers are lost, broke, or the tips mushroomed. I'd get another dozen if I can get them on a good sale again.
The mushroomed part does not sound good
"The mushroomed part does not sound good" The part of the arrow from the back of the broadhead to the front of the insert is the weakest point. That Is why you see people "footing" this area. However they were still stronger than most standard arrows I have shot. I believe that if I would have used 340s instead of 400s the footing would not have been necessary for me. I still believe they are one of strongest if not the strongest arrow out. If you are worried use FMJs the aluminum outside is a natural footing. Greg
I have been using axis 340's for years and have never had any problems. I have never footed them or used a BAR. I don’t have a count but it is well over 50 animals without a problem.
I,literally just ordered 2 dozen shafts this morning.
Why use the epoxy with so many other insert bonds available. Super glue would work right.
A couple of years ago Easton started including packet of an even stronger insert glue with their inset kits. It is awesome strong.
I’m like Eric, think we got an overblown non-issue going on here. I will continue to “fling” without “footing” and hopefully continue to “feed” my face and others.
From what I have heard the epoxy that comes with them is best. Slower cure epoxy is more impact resistant that super glue. I don’t see any need to complicate anything, Easton has made it easy.
Wild wilderness's first posts mirror my thoughts exactly.
I would add that since I started truing the ends on my Axis on a jig with fine sandpaper....the better mating surface not only makes for better BH straightness...but also a stronger arrow. I did a thread with arrow assembly and lots of pics showing the difference on the AT Western Gallery....'My Elk Arrow"
Brendare,
I too have found that squaring the front and rear ends of the shaft aids in a much truer, stable flying arrow with BH.
I just use superglue. Never had a problem
Like the HIT system a great deal. I foot mine as well, and use JB weld for the inserts. No complaints.
One tip I would offer is to lay shafts horizontal as you allow epoxy to set up. You don't want the inserts moving after you set them. That epoxy is good. I have moved to a slow curing JB Weld as an option. (Quick curing stuff is more brittle)
Well you have to lay them horizontally to dry [clearly stated in the instructions] ....even with a 5 min epoxy you might get some insert movement.
The thick/slow epoxy is there for multiple reasons....one is better insert alignment.
ThE epoxy does not lend itself to doing a single arrow though. One you open the epoxy it is a must use or lose scenario right
I use one of the JB Weld twenty four hour epoxy’s to put my footings on. If I have to do one or two inserts, I mix up a little for that too. The two tube pack will still last several years. I generally throw it out way before it’s half gone and buy some fresh stuff. It’s cheap compared to the rest of the components.
What JB Weld product do you recommend they have a number of different types
I just use whatever epoxy I have around. I have shot axis and Fmj for the last 8 years. Only one that ever mushroomed was the one I shot into large basketball Sized rock. I am sure Most others would have too.
The Easton epoxy is definitely a super strong compound. There is no way you’re getting the insert out if you prepped the shaft properly.
But most any 24 hour or slow cure epoxy will work.
Very easy, and I use any slow cure epoxy I have at the time. Never had an issue.
I use the Gorilla 5 min epoxy on my HIT's, works great and is multiple use to answer that question Bou.
