Sharpening Montec Broadheads
Equipment
The Montec broadheads I have bought are not very out-of-the-package sharp. I've tried the various methods for sharpening them with various grit abrasives, but can't get a shaving edge.
Thinking about it, I believe the reason is the angle of the edges. The knives I have are sharpened on a roughly 20° angle, and they get a razor edge easily. However, Montec blades are sharpened on a 60° angle, which, while creating a tough edge, it just can't be razor sharp. Montecs will kill animals, like any dull Thunderhead will.....but they're not razor sharp......at least mine aren't.
Several other companies are making, or just marketing, broadheads similar to the G5 Montec. NAP Hellrazor, Cabelas BlackOut, Slick Trick SS3, and Muzzy makes one. I have not tried to sharpen any of those, but they all appear to have 60° angled blades like the Montec.
Again, these heads will kill.....that's not the point......so please don't say "The deer I kill think they're sharp." I've killed deer and hogs with Montecs. What I'm asking is, do you have success getting a razor sharp edge on Montecs or any of the 60° heads?
No and I don’t fight it. Other options out there Better options out there. No need to complicate what can be simple
A 60 degree edge is untended to chop or punch thru material, like an axe, not slice thru it like a razor. It’s nearly impossible to get a 60 degree edge shaving sharp. Don’t sweat it. I’ve used the G5s for over 20 years, and they’ve never failed to do the job, as long as I do mine.
Matt
Same here, but I do get a sharper edge with 1000 grit.
Use a file to change the angle then sharpen on a flat stone. The actual cutting edge will still be 60 degrees but it will be on thinner steel.
I’ve used Montecs for a long time.
The key is to start with a coarse enough stone to raise a burr. Sharpening two blades at a time on a flat stone, do not move on to finer stones until you are sure you’ve raised a burr for the entire length of both blades. I use a little piece of paper and push it on edge over the bevel to see if it ‘catches’. If it snags, that’s the burr. Rotate and repeat until you have raised burrs on all 6 bevels. Then go to finer and finer stones, finally stropping with compound on leather or cardboard. Because of the angles inherent to the 3 blade head, the edge won’t ‘feel’ as sharp as other edges you are used to. But this is as sharp as they are gonna get - it’s how I’ve sharpen mine - with good success.
There is a way around the bevel angles offered by a 3 blade … there’s an outfit (Stay Sharp I think) that offers a jig with a convex backing plate. You sharpen with sand paper, using the convex shape of the backing plate to create a lesser ‘hollow ground’ bevel angle. But be prepared - on the initial time thru the jig, there will be lots of material to remove to achieve the new angle. Again, you need to go until you raise a burr! I’ve never used the jig, just saw it on YouTube - seems legit.
For the money, I think the Montecs are Ok, but not thrilled with their ability to hold an edge. A positive of a 60+ degree edge is that it should be more durable than a steeper (say 20+20= 40 degree) edge - as GG said above, think axe vs knife from a durability standpoint. But even with the ‘tougher’ bevel angle, the Montec edge is not very durable - imo, due to the steel quality. I would disagree with the assessment that this edge is meant to ‘chop’ rather than slice. I have a very blunt angle on my favourite hatchet, and it slices paper just fine. Scary fine. WTF
I collect broadheads and killed two South Dakota bucks with the Montec. I sharpened them using the flat diamond stone G5 sells, following the accompanying instructions. The finished product was not very sharp but the arrow/broadhead combination flew well. I was not able to get a fine edge on them - hopefully you have better fortune.
I’ve used Montec & Wacem which are very similar. Small, short & excellent flying heads. Was never satisfied with poor bloodtrails. Prefer a head with steeper blade angle.
The one piece heads with open blades are typically extremely strong and fly well. The problem with the sharpening angle could be solved if the manufacturer would simply devise a hollow- grinding system. This would reduce the final angle and provide a razor edge. Maybe not as durable as the 60° blades, but much sharper. Someone should do it.
The only way to make a three blade fixed (machined) broadhead "razor sharp" is to reshape the bevel with something other than a flat stone.
You're right HDE. I think the answer is some form of hollow-grinding that could be done inexpensively, or perhaps a hollow-cut during the machining process. Maybe re-sharpening could be done on a radiused stone or diamond. Or 1000 grit paper wrapped around a pipe of appropriate diameter. Just thinking.......
I don't have any problem shaving hair with my Montecs after I sharpen them on flat stones. The 60 degree angle is no problem and they are indeed razor sharp.
With so many options out there why buy heads that don’t come sharp enough? This head looks like almost any other head on the market nothing special. Try Tooth of the Arrow 1” heads. Huge hole and easy to sharpen they even sell a sharpener made for them!
I get all three blades shaving sharp. It is possible. It just requires the right tools. File, 1000 grit diamond stone, then a honing rod of steel, carbon, or ceramic. And, as bowbender said, you gotta put the reps in.
A file will make the edge sharp. But, it’s a rough edge in comparison to what you end up with. So sharpen it with the file until you have and edge along every blade that you can pluck and it catches you finger.
Then run it on the stone until that pluck is gone. Then finish. If you don’t get a good start it’ll never get sharp.
Some good sharpening advice above. It all starts with the burr.
As with most things in bowhunting, archery and life, there are compromises. I hear people talking about hollow grinds, thinned blades and scalpel-like edges. Sounds good if you say it quick, but be aware of the tradeoff in durability of the edge. What good is your scalpel if the edge folds over on entry? We are asking our blades to cut hair, hide, bone and flesh - a scalpel is not the right tool for all that. Durability of edge is not only about steel quality, it is also affected by the geometry of the bevel. For example, a common profile for bushcraft knives is a skandi grind - it is a fairly blunt angle with no final bevel, still very sharp, built for abuse like chopping and batonning. An axe or hatchet takes this one step further where the grind is actually convex. That doesn’t mean it’s not sharp - my hatchet is no scalpel, but it shaves hair while still exhibiting the durability of the convex grind for chopping and splitting.
So - even though it might take some practice to sharpen your 3 blade bh, the end result is an edge with more durability than one with a steeper bevel (all else being equal).
I just lay them flat on an extra fine Arkansas oil stone and do a circular polish
Fuzzy - Montecs? Brother!! Are you using the cs or ss version? I think cs are easier to sharpen.
My problem was that I could never raise a burr with the stones I had. When I got a more aggressive stone, I immediately got a burr and was off to the races.
I've shot a couple bucks with Hellrazors. While I've never been able to get them shaving sharp, I get them sharp enough to catch my thumbnail (not slide over it). If that edge catches, it's a nice strong edge that, when traveling 230 to 300 fps will cut and kill very efficiently and leave a nice bood trail. If you want a shaving sharp edge, replaceable blade heads are your friend.
Fuzzy - they come in stainless and carbon. Carbon are easier to sharpen - but prone to rust.
All three blade broadheads can be sharp enough to shave.
See if this link works
https://youtu.be/V9Wg7FiCeUA
I've only used stainless. No problem sharpening on an Arkansas extra fine oil stone. Good blood trails and shabing sharp
Ok guys, same topic different broadhead. I know that there was a thread awhile back on sharping broadheads. You guys talked about this clamp devise. Can anyone or does anyone remember the name of that clamp is. I think it comes out of Minn. or Wis. thanks
I know fixed three blade heads have killed lots of game. I bought some, tried to get them to a level of sharpness that I want in a broad head. I was unable to get them that sharp, with files, stones, sand paper etc. I gave up and moved to heads that can be sharpened to a shaving sharp condition, and I’m not going back to three blade one piece heads.
Dale06: "I know fixed three blade heads have killed lots of game. I bought some, tried to get them to a level of sharpness that I want in a broad head. I was unable to get them that sharp, with files, stones, sand paper etc. I gave up and moved to heads that can be sharpened to a shaving sharp condition, and I’m not going back to three blade one piece heads."
That's been my experience with them too. Seems like a good idea that needs improvement.
I’ve used the 100 gr stainless Montec for 15+ yrs. Never had a problem getting them hair shaving sharp. I use an ordinary steel and run the head across the steel at a 90 degree angle. Takes a little time, but all the heads in my quiver will shave the hair off your arm with minimal pressure. They’ve taken a 5x5 bull and numerous whitetail. I feel no need to change. Shoot a buck, wash arrow, resharpen and back in quiver. Still have 8/9 of the original heads purchased. 3 are still in the original package.
