Cheap Traditional Arrows - Amazon ?
Equipment
I am starting to shoot my recurve again and want some cheap arrows that I can bang around without worry of losing. I am looking for something heavy, feathers and cheap. I have a 29.5" draw which I think is 62# or so on this bow. Wanting feathers and aluminum with 125 gr head. Would make due with carbon. I see there are some highly rated carbon arrows on Amazon with feathers but they come with 100 grain tips and are lighter arrows. Anyone have a recommendation? I don't mind buying cheap foreign junk for this application.
If you’re looking for aluminum I’d look at 2117s. Carbons 350-400. Don’t let the 100 grain tip scare ya off from buying them. I shoot a 190gr Simmons Interceptor and practice with 160gr field points because that’s what I had for years. It has no effect on my shooting. Main thing is is get your arrow flight as straight as you can. No porpus or fishtailing. Don’t cut your arrows too short it’s okay to have some arrow hanging over your shelf. Your can always shorten your arrows for stiffness for spine. Nocking point will adjust your fishtail. Porpus can be adjusted with stiffness of your arrow. Also your brace height can be adjusted by twisting your string. This is good starting stuff.
Shane
Do you even know what spine you need?
There basically are no “heavy”’ carbons, but you can get there with point weight.
I have shot up a LOT of cheap aluminum, and it gets very expensive very quickly. Best bet is good old Easton aluminum; try the bay or the big List for used arrows in good shape. Or bite the bullet and buy new. Three Rivers has been clearing out heavy-spine aluminum arrows lately; might ask them to set you up. They’ll just need bow make & model, string type, desired arrow length & point weight, and as close as you can get on your actual net draw weight.
Checkout Fleetwood carbons. Imported, but by US guys that know what they are doing and have been in the archery business for many decades.
Or Big Jim’s Dark Timbers…. But you still need to know the right spine for the point that will get you to your target all-up weight.
Jim will set you up, too….
Cheap arrows, as in quality could be hazardous to ones well being. If you start shooting at close range losing shouldn't be a issue. Go over to the leather wall and find some quality arrows at a reasonable price, your hand may thank you.
My goodness. Just buy some hunter grade 400’s or 340’s, depending on your bows shelf cut, and put a 75 or 100 grain steel insert in it. You can buy heavier field tips. Too.
This isn’t rocket science.
I'd rather have a cheap bow than cheap arrows (as in tolerance consistency, etc.) if I actually wanted to shoot relatively well.
Yes...the arrows more important than the bow. Personally, I've not found aluminum to be fragile if you're shooting a thicker wall shaft like a 1916 or 2016. I've been shooting some Gold Tip blems off n on and they hold up very well. I very seldom lose an arrow..I'm particular where I shoot..lol I've heard the Easton 6.5 shafts are good shafts for the money.
I second the big jims dark timber shaft also. Great price and a good arrow.
I had a lot of 2018 aluminum arrows as they stood up better to stump shooting ,etc.
Now I shoot Goldtip or Beaman 400s Traditional. They are tough. You loose more arrows to damage than by poor shooting. Currently shooting A 44# Bear, Bearcat recurve.
I always shoot 4 inch feathers
I wouldn’t go super cheap on arrows. Some of that crap on Amazon or eBay is not worth buying.
You will do much better and be happier with the results if you have a good set of arrows that are tuned to your bow and shooting style. I would recommend carbon because they are way tougher than wood or aluminum, they’re either straight or broken, and much easier to tune.
I would guess at that draw length and weight you would be be in the 340 to 300 spine range. Would guess the 340’s would need a 125-175 grain point and the 300’s would need a 200-250 grain point up front to tune. You may end up different though. Either of those would end up with a finished weight in most of the arrows I shoot from 500 to 650 grains, depending on the setup. Plenty for anything.
Some good options listed above for lower priced carbon arrows. You might also look for blem arrows that are typically just messed up finishes. I’ve gotten some great deals on blem Gold Tips.
A suggestion I would make would be to get a lighter draw weight to get started with. Something in the low to mid 40’s. Much easier to work on form with!
Also, look up Tom Clum at Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear and either spend some time with him or sign up for his on-line coaching videos. He will definitely get you on the right track.
Good luck! Have fun!
Stick bow supplies has blemished gold tips in stock. I would do them or Big Jim’s dark timber shafts. Not real expensive but more than good enough.
Tavis is right..there comes a point when you will be disappointed because the arrows are flying like they got caught in a Kansas sand storm. GT bless, Big Jims, Easton 6.5 are good choices..I have to say though..I'm no expert on carbon arrows.
“ there comes a point when you will be disappointed because the arrows are flying like they got caught in a Kansas sand storm. “
Maybe I’m misinterpreting, but that makes no sense… If your spine is anywhere within the ballpark, then with 4” or 5” feathers, any (reasonably) straight arrow will shoot well enough that it’ll be hard to detect anything wrong… and the higher your FOC, the harder it’ll be to pick up any wobble in flight.
I suppose if you were to buy arrows so cheap that none of them were actually in the same spine group, but as a rule…
I calculate my spine requirements with Stu’s calculator and it always steers me to spot-on or maybe just a bit weak, but I’ve given up on advising anyone on that for carbons; there are just too many variables from one bow to the next to be able to get it all right without all of the details.
All that said, I would venture that it would be foolish in the extreme to try to learn to shoot a single-string bow at #62. #35 or #40 is plenty, and I used to know a guy who shot compounds at #80 or #85 who said #35 absolutely kicked his ass… And with good-shooting limbs as cheap as they are these days, the only reason to not start off at an EASILY manageable weight is Pure Ego. But hey, if you’d rather hurt yourself and develop bad habits, I’m sure I won’t be the one to talk you out of it….
You might've missed the "again" part of my first sentence.
Nope, but I thought Treeline might know more about your background with it, and a lot of people read these posts looking for guidance… not just the OPs. No offense intended.
So out of curiosity… are you looking for input on which arrows to look into, or do you need input on what spine you need?
JMO, aluminum is a lot easier to get right, and durability is only an issue if you are at high risk of hitting something highly unforgiving, like rocks or the rebar legs/reinforcements in the 3D targets. Most people shoot soft targets where aluminum will last forever unless they pull their arrows carelessly.
I seem to have a pretty consistent 2%-3% casualty rate these days, but there are days when I come off the course with about 1/2 dozen arrows in need of repair… so I’d either go broke or would have to change my ways if it weren’t for aluminum-footed carbons.
Id use wood arrows for trad shooting especially for playing/enjoying.Having said that I recommend going to the leatherwall subforum and starting a thread youll get alot of help.
If you buy arrows that are not spined at close enough spine tolerances they won't fly consistent
The cheapest factory made arrows I've seen are aluminums at yard sales, estate sales, Craigslist, flea markets, etc. I've found new dozens still in boxes, many others in great shape, and CHEAP. I suppose I should buy them all up, but I pass on most of them because I like using wood arrows.
Next time you find 2016s or 2117s, Jeff…. ;)
Thank yall. I appreciate the discussion and guidance. I really was just looking for a link or vendor that sells cheaper arrows that I don't mind losing as I go plunking around shooting at things at random distances walking through the woods. My arrows that I practice with on targets in the yard or hunt with, I want higher end arrows. My apologies for the lack of clarity.
OK, so then 2 follow-ups… Well, 3, because I appreciated your comment on Conduct Unbecoming, and I think you might either be doing it already or at least be open to the idea…..
#1 - Judo Points pay for themselves very quickly, if you’re not already a fan
#2 - think about setting up some flu-flus to take the edge off of your impact velocities on the short-midrange shots; it won’t affect your trajectory to speak of and it’s good practice for small game. Also a good way to use up feathers that don’t make the grade for more serious endeavors.
#3 - Don’t forget your garbage receptacle for packing out whatever crap you come across out there. A large potato sack works well, so it’s a double win - Trash Monsters make lovely targets (bonus points for mylar) and nobody who sees you roaming around with your bow is going to assume that you’re up to no good if they notice that you’re packing out a whole bunch of other people’s litter. Might even be good for our image…. ;)
Im shooting the 6.2mm, .003” Linkboys $38/ shafts and the Accmos 350 shafts $36/shafts and they are as good as the $100 shafts I was buying…actually thats not true, they have a far better finish then the current Easton shafts.
I was getting chunks of the finish of the Latest easton woodgrain shafts I bought at 3 rivers flaking off in big chunks.
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