Aluminum arrows still?????????
Equipment
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Anyone still in the dark ages and shooting aluminum arrows with compounds. If so what is your set up.
I don't shoot vertical anymore, but yesterday at the gun show, they sold alot of them, from guys downsizing. Curious, I asked a seller, he said 2117 and 2018s were the big sellers.
If they fly well and do the job, why not use them?
If they ever make a comeback, I should be able to make a fortune.
State Field Championships.
State Field Championships.
I do for hunting and competition. Dark ages, chit. I did the carbon bit 2 years and was never satisfied with them. I've been in the game since 1956 & was a shop/lanes owner for 18 years SO "I know how to tune".. Carbons were nothing but a pain in the arse. I did arrow 5 biggame in that 2 years I used them. Now that I've given you a little back ground I'll answer the question. My out door target Darton is set on 45#s & I use a 1716s cut 26". Sometimes I use a 1913, same length. My Darton hunter is 60#s & I use a 29" 2216 with a 125gr 3 blade fixed. Sometimes I use a 2219, same length, head. I can use a 2117 too. Sometimes I have them fletched with blazers but prefer feathers. My hunters last year had 2" Razors, 4 fletch. My indoor Darton is 50#s & I have aset of 2712s, 4" 3 fletch, 30", 300 gr points. I practice with my hunting BHs through 50 yds & they shoot like bullets. Hunting, I can't remember taking a shot over 25 yds in tons of years. In Field & Target I shoot through 80 yds.. I use woodies most of the time in my 50# 68" longbow but so have a set of 29", 2117s with 4" feathers for it.
Lots of folks still shoot aluminum. Still no carbon made that is as consistent as aluminum.
Carbon won’t bend though. No consistency with bent aluminum
I have a bunch of them at my cabin on POW Island. I use them to shoot bears at bait. Shots are less than 20 yards and heavy aluminum arrows tend to blow through bears nicely. Most arrows are destroyed after killing a bear, so I’ll probably eventually run out of them. I don’t know though, I’m 68, so maybe I’ll run out of gas before I run out of aluminum arrows. Until I do, I’ll keep shooting the old 2219’s for black bears.
2 carbons and an Alumalog from 45….
2 carbons and an Alumalog from 45….
I have all of my bows tuned with both aluminum and carbon. Not that hard to come up with very similar TAW by going up a spine class and about 100 grains point weight from the Aluminum spec, so here are a pair of 340s with 225 grain points and 2117s (400 spine) with 125 points. They come out matched for weight within about a gram, so they’re close enough that I can’t shoot the difference. The added bonus is that I can foot my 500 woodgrain carbons with pieces of 2117, so I’m pretty much Both And.
31.5" 2018's 3, 5" shield cut feathers using recurves from 47 - 52lbs.
Carbon won’t bend though. No consistency with bent aluminum. In reference to that comment. I have some Aluminums that I had when I moved into this house 25 years ago.. They are just fine, no cracks or bends. I say, IF you can put your arrow in the target anywhere, you will have no more damage than a Carbon. I see "little" things all the time that destroy a carbon. 3ds in particular. Hunting-I have 3 arrows sitting that have taken 5 Biggame critters each & many more that have taken 3 & they are still good to hunt.. They are not as fragile as some might believe. I'm actually building some outdoor aluminum target arrows today, 3 fletch, 2" shield. My last couple years (same size) have Blazer Vanes & I just wanted a change. Since I build all my own & build/repair for 8 family members in some form of archery, it's a common sight.
If you have a forgiving backstop, aluminum shafts will outlast their anodized finishes… And they can be straightened…. if you have the patience for it.
I had to switch to carbons for the durability, because taking a LOT of long shots with stickbows on a very rocky 3D course can rack up a serious tab in a real hurry. Re-bar legs (and sometimes spines) in the targets + ricochets off the backlines and belly-lines will take a real toll on the thinner-walled aluminum… I don’t usually shoot them at all past what would be a realistic hunting range unless I’m working with a big NFAA butt.
But if you’re shooting pins at known distances, you’ll probably ruin more shafts with poor arrow-pulling technique than anything else…..
Still using them here, 2413 tipped with a 125gr. NAP Thunderhead. But why not, I am still shooting my Mathews Z Max also. They match up great.
My youngest son has an Elite Enlist that I bought him several years ago that he isn't shooting. So I'm setting it up with some 2315s I refletched with 4" feathers and some 150 grain Magnus Stingers. Or I might sharpen up some old Bear Super Razorheads. Just for chits and giggles. Should be fun.
I still use them. Tried carbons for a while. Didn't like them.
If I was shooting black bear from a short range at bait stations like Bob, I would also be shooting 2219's. For indoor spots, 2712's are the most practical and most common shafts. I would never use pure aluminum for 3D or Field though(ACE or X-10). Carbon is also still the best alternative for "general purpose hunting/3D" if you only want to have one setup. I always hear the bent/broke reason but, to me. one of the biggest drawbacks to aluminum is the high resonation. They lose much more energy per foot traveled than carbon does, and I would prefer to have as much energy retention as possible when hunting. Especially beyond the average 17 yard shot.
I stopped shooting them when the new shafts I needed (2117's and such) were only offered at 31.5" or lower. Did the Woodie thing for a bit and may again, but mostly carbons now.
I always did for the most part. Back in 2004 I tried my first release. In 2007, I figured I try carbon. I shot one elk with them. It was a complete pass through. I shot numerous deer with them too. About a 75% pass through rate.
Fast forward to present. I bought a new compound in 2017. I bought a ton of 2413 arrows. They are slower but, dang it man they shoot through everything. Andxx78 won’t bend if it’s a straight on hit.
I’m back to carbon on both bows due to cost of arrows. But, I weight them to get in the 475-500 range. They won’t penetrate like aluminum because the end busts if it hits something hard dead on. Collars will save a lot of them but, if you hit solid it still messes up some shafts.
“… to me, one of the biggest drawbacks to aluminum is the high resonation. They lose much more energy per foot traveled than carbon does…”
Please explain.
Had maybe a hundred aluminums from when I switched to carbon years ago.. Couldn't find anybody that wanted them so been using them for garden stakes over the years. Fletched stakes look cool.
I started out in the 70s using aluminum n wood. I have a few carbons but the majority of the time I use aluminum. Most consistent shaft material on the planet. I find 1916, 2016, 2018, shafts to be very durable..but then I don't intentionally shoot at anything that may damage my arrows, whatever shaft material I'm shooting.
Don’t anybody trash any 2114s, 2117s or 22XX without talking to me first, eh?? Those things are awesome…. I need inserts, too…
Slight chance I have yet another bundle of aluminums up in rafters. If so I won't use them for garden stakes, I'll let one of you guys know, not sure just a chance I have more.
I shot 2219s for about 30 years. Switched to carbon 15 years ago and much prefer them. But I killed a lot of stuff with aluminum.
2219 is a BEAST, ain’t it? I have some sections of that which I’m hoping I’ll be able to use to foot the 340s. Those need a little bomb-proofing around here…
I had to switch to carbons when they stopped making 2419s. I find carbon not as consistent or as easy to tune as aluminum. A lot more available spines and weights on aluminum. Sure, they bend, but are easy to make straight again, and very cheap compare to carbon.
Heaviest arrow I can make work from my (recurve) bow is a 2018. 2016's are better flight-wise and tuning-wise. If I cranked up a few ponds draw, the former would be ideal for 'heavier than deer' size critters. 12.3 gpi. Would probably need 200-225 grains up front.