Sitka Gear
European skull mount for a wild boar
Hogs
Contributors to this thread:
chief400 12-Dec-08
ORARCHER 12-Dec-08
Hollywood 12-Dec-08
neverdull 12-Dec-08
Beendare 12-Dec-08
White Falcon 12-Dec-08
chief400 12-Dec-08
RTH 12-Dec-08
BOBSTER 13-Dec-08
Beendare 13-Dec-08
BOBSTER 14-Dec-08
chief400 15-Dec-08
From: chief400
12-Dec-08
Has anyone done one of these? Can you post a picture if you have? I have done deer all the way up to a buffalo and would like to do a hog but want to see how it looks first. Thanks

From: ORARCHER
12-Dec-08

ORARCHER's Link
Not mine but here is one

From: Hollywood
12-Dec-08

Hollywood's embedded Photo
Hollywood's embedded Photo
here's one.

From: neverdull
12-Dec-08
when you do your hog make sure you pull the tusks out after boiling, they are hollow and need to be cleaned out so they dont stink.

From: Beendare
12-Dec-08

Beendare's embedded Photo
Beendare's embedded Photo
Here is one I boiled out myself years ago. Not a very good job- years later it is leaching (oils?) thus the discoloration plus the teeth crack (due to the heat?).

If I did another one I would send it to the beetle box guys.

From: White Falcon
12-Dec-08

White Falcon's embedded Photo
White Falcon's embedded Photo
Javelina I did

From: chief400
12-Dec-08
Beendare

Could you use peroxide and bleach that out? Did you just boil it? When we do our heads we peroxide them to get real white. Thanks for all the pictures.

From: RTH
12-Dec-08
How are you guys getting the greasy oily crap out of the bone. I've done some pretty respecable whitetail euros but I'm trying my first hog and the mag carbonate will not stick to the greasy parts. Funny how some parts are greasy and some are dry. Thinking about boiling it again and using dishwashing detergent on it. What you you guys using?

Thanks

From: BOBSTER
13-Dec-08
After you boil the meat off the skull, then start over again with clean water and some real good degreasing soap. Boil again but not at a real hot temp. Take the teeth out so that they do not get brittle. You will start seeing the oil or grease start forming at the top of the water. You may have to repeat this process several times to get all of the oil out of the skull. If not, over a period of time, the oils will start showing on the skull again. Bob

From: Beendare
13-Dec-08
Chief, that skull is 20 years old- I'm don't remember exactly what I did. Will peroxide from the drug store work or does it have to be extra strength? I probably need to degrease first- correct?

Bobster, your comment "Boil again but not at a real hot temp" defys the laws of physics and though probably a good tip it will need further explanation.

From: BOBSTER
14-Dec-08
Beendare, the best peroxide is from a beauty supply store. It will be a two part. One part is a paste and the other part is a powder. You need to get the highest #. You will mix them together to make a thick paste and then apply onto the skull (small paint brush) and let set for several hours if not over night. Then brush it all off (old toothbrush). When boiling any skulls, you want to boil the water on a lower heat where it is just enough to make the water boil, but not so hot that it wants to boil all of the water out. Real high heat is not good for bone. It takes time, but will be better in the long run. Bob

From: chief400
15-Dec-08
We used the stuff from a beauty shop and left them in the sun to bleach for a little of the time. Dawn dish soap takes grease out of the way (that's how they advertise it) and it did work. This was on Buffalo and deer have not tried anything else.

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