Contributors to this thread:
broadhead right of field points 2, back
back to the subject.
I moved my rest to the left and the broadheads moved left but so did the field points. No matter where I move the rest, the field tips hit about 4 inches to the left of the broadheads. Both fly beautifully and group nice, just 4 inches apart. Now what?
I'm using the same arrows, I have six, 3 broadhead and 3 field tipped. I even tried swithching them around, doesnt matter still four inches apart. They are carbon express 350's cut down to 28", shooting a 66# hoyt vector and qad hd rest. There is no vane contact at all. help please
Have you paper tuned your bow? I would never start with moving your rest. Always start with tuning your bow.
I would do this.
1. Shoot it through paper - Tune to bullet hole results 2. Try broadheads again.
IMPORTANT: Have you tuned your broadheads to arrow? Have you spun the arrows with broadheads? Did they spin true or did they wobble? I spin my on the sink (something slick) Just spin with your hands on the tip. If your broadheads are not tuned/aligned to the arrow, they will never fly.
1. Make sure your bow is in time. Yes, even the new bows
1. Have your friends shoot same bow/broadheads if possible. It could be your form.
1. Try a friends arrow with your broadheads. Spine can have huge affects on broadhead flight. Certain combinations just don't work as well as others.
Lastly, buy Slick tricks...problem solved...LOL
I think if it was any of those wouldnt the patterns be arractic. My groups are very consistant with both, just 4 inches apart
honestly no....especially the spine of your arrows and tuning your bow. Seen it too many times. What kind of broadheads? Have you tried something else just for grins?
muzzy mx3. No I havent, but my block target is not going to last long at this rate, which I cant afford.
I Had the same problems when I tried the MX-4's... went back to Slick Trick Standards and Mags....no more problems....The MX-3's are planning(catching air) and being steered by the front...are your arrows fletched Helical ?? If not, that also may be the problem... Start from scratch, Set center shot then paper tune...then walkback tune(using FP's) on a "perfectly calm" day.....then if needed, BH tune ...you can also try tiller tuning....turn the top limb bolt in or out 1/4 turn(mark the starting point first on the bolt head) and see what happens...you may go for a full turn in 1/4 turns....try top limb, if no good(go back to starting point) try bottom limb the same.....Jeff
It's your bow hand. I wish I had a nickel for every guy who came to my shop shooting four inches right with BH's. It's the number one most common problem. You are torquing the bow with your grip. RELAX your hand! use absolutely zero muscles from your forearm on. At no time should you be touching any part of the bow other than with the fat part of your thumb. If the palm of your hand, or any fingers are touching the side of your bow, this will happen. It's also very important to dr your bow with only the fat part of your thumb touching the bow.
If you could watch yourself shoot in super slow motion, you would see yourself tightening your grip on the bow as the arrow leaves the rest, twisting it to the right. With field points, the fletching compensates to a degree, but with a fixed head out front to steer, they will go right every time.
x-man is likely right. sigh. again.
When you move your rest, both FP and FBBH groups will move. This seem to freak some out (My FP group moved too! They aren't hitting where I'm shooting anymore!) but that's how it works. Unless you're in danger of missing the target all together don't worry about it.
In theory the FBBH just move a bit more with the adjustment than the FP and again in theory the distance between groups should close a bit. But both groups will move.
That's how it's supposed to go. You can re-sight everything easily enough when you are done tuning.
I also struggled with this issue for about 2 years. After trying everything with arrow spine and point weight, tiller adjustment, and papertuning I was about to throw my bows away for a different brand. Then I was given a suggestion to shoot my bow through paper with my hand and the bow grip covered in vasoline to help eliminate torque. once I was shooting bulletholes that way I switched to shooting without vasoline to see if I still got bulletholes. Of course I didn't, but I kept changing hand position until I found the proper way to hold my bow to get a perfect tear. After that I trained myself to have that same proper form until it felt natural, then I checked broadheads. First time trying my FP and BH hit the exact same spots. I'm now a firm beliver that hand torque(or lack of torque) plays the most important part in broadhead flight. I'm no expert, but this is what 2 years of frustration has taught me.
It is highly likely that x-man has nailed it.
Two items, for future reference,
Any spine issues can be isolated simply and quickly by turning your draw weight (both limbs equally) up and/or down a few turns. That will often give you a hint as to where to go next.
And, whenever you turn only one limb up or down WITHOUT resetting your nock to it's former position on the string each time, you changing the angle of the handle in your hand but more importantly for this conversation, you are moving the nock point up and down in relation to your rest and it would be simpler and less damaging to your serving to just move the rest.
Well first thought would be under spine for right hand shooters right impacts are underspine, however your shafts are the right selection so it leaves operator error, you are torquing your bow like the others have said. It's not alway easy to hear someone tell to.u your the problem rather then equipment, but a wise man wiIll learn.
I'm very new to 'posting', but not new to bowhunting (1963!). I just wanted to compliment everyone on this great thread. I've done all these things, except for the vaseline. I've been shooting the Magnus Stinger broadhead for several years. I didn't think anything would ever take the place (for me) of the Zwickey Black Diamond. Been shooting them since the 60's (Stick-bows to the first compounds, up until about 3 years ago) and have taken a lot of game with them. Yes, I tuned them to the arrow, by filing them to exact same weight and spinning them. Anyway, I'm pretty helpless when it comes to getting technical, with just about anything. Love your posts and they are certainly very informative, Thanks. Pic is S. Africa 1999 (Zwickey).
Old string but some good stuff. I had the same issue, just not with every shot. I was lucky enough to pick up on the fact that when I clinch or grab with my bow hand broadhead tiped arrow goes right 3-4 inches. Jeff.
X-man is most likely right on the mark. So two suggestions.....
1. Rather than the mess of Vasoline, put a jersey type glove WITHOUT grippers on your bow hand. That way the bow can move around in your hand.
2. If your bow hand is big enough, touch the tip of your thumb to the tip of your pointer finger. Let your other fingers have their natural relaxed curl. This helps fool the brain into thinking you have a grip on your bow and won't drop it. Thereby making it less likely you will grab your bow upon release. Warning, If you have a smaller hand, this may still cause you to torque the bow. Just have to try it and see if it causes your finger or thumb to rest on the side of the grip.
I've just bare shaft tuned my rest so BS and FP arrow hit together. Then I've never had an issue with broadheads not hitting with FP arrows. Basically if my bare shaft was tail right, I moved my rest left and vice versa. I don't know if I'm tuning to my hand torque or if this actually works. But it works for me. I was practicing out to 60 yards with my fixed heads and having great broadhead flight with both 150 grain Magnus Stingers and 125 grain NAP Hellrazors.
Holy cow... six year old thread.
Some issues NEVER change.
Buy a grains scale , bet you that they are more then 15grains diff in weight . that is if they both group as you stated . the tork concept is also a good idea, except for the grouping thing.