Lowering Draw weight on a recurve?
Equipment
I have an old Bear Recurve that my daughter wants to shoot. However, its probably about 10# too heavy for her right now. I would a slightly longer string would lower the poundage, but I'm wondering if it would cause other problems.
However, my knowledge base of recurves is very limited so any help is appreciated.
Darrell,a longer string will not lower the poundage at all.A 50@28 bow,for example, is 50@28 no matter what the brace height is before you draw it.Limbs can be sanded/tillered,to reduce weight,by someone with the experience but the cost of that and a refinish might be more that that bow is worth. You could hang on to it 'til she gets bigger and get her a lighter for now or just sell it to fund a lighter one.The WORST thing you can do is start them out on a bow that's too heavy.Best of luck and hope she sticks with it.
I don't see why a longer string wouldn't lower the weight?
When she hits her anchor the bow limbs will have less deflection. The anchor point remains the same, draw length the same, the bend in the libs would be less I would think?
A longer string won't lower the weight. A longer string means a lower brace height. So the bow starts an inch or so less at brace height but will be the same when she hits full draw. What does matter is the lower brace height will impart more of the limbs' energy into the arrow since the arrow will be on the string for an additional inch or so of travel.
10# is probably too much to reduce in draw weight. Those bows were built with laminations made to hit a specific weight. You can thin the glass and narrow the profile but you're probably better off selling the bow and buying one in her draw weight.
Darrell, buy a samick sage for about $130 new. you can buy other limbs in heavier weights as she grows and gains strength. do not let the price fool you.
Thanks for the info even if it wasn't what I wanted to hear. I'll see if I can do some trading. We have a recurve that is too light for her and another that is too heavy.
Second the Samick sage, I had one for awhile with 25# limbs and a skinny string that shot carbon arrows accurate and fast for such a light bow.
TD, I agree that it seems counterintuitive, but I think the unseen factor is that the string angle created with the longer string requires more draw weight to reach the same amount of flex in the limbs. Therefore, the same draw weight reaches a lower amount of flex.
The same effect is seen when lengthening the string on a compound. The brace height is reduced, and first impression is that the bow would require the same draw weight to break over, but that the breakover would occur later in the draw. Instead, the peak draw weight is increased without touching a limb bolt, due to the reduced angle formed by the string as the draw progresses. I don't know that the effect exactly counteracts the decrease in limb flex in the case of the recurve, but it certainly acts in that direction, and very noticeably.
Messed around with such variations some back in the round-wheel days.
Don't recall the physics terminology that applies, but I suspect it has to do with force vectors.
The Sage is now about $140 but as mentioned the limbs go as light as 25# and go up in 5# increments, they only cost about $75 for a set of them so it won't break the bank. You might try and sell the Bear recurve and take that money toward the Sage. They are a good quality bow for the money. Some have said they shoot a well as some of their custom recurves. DANNY
in two weeks or so most people will have built up some muscles , let her work on it for a while, or buy a new one.
If you buy a Sage, spend another fifteen bucks and get a FF string, one that comes on it is total crap!
Be sure to let her at least draw the bow before you buy it.
A longer string will lower poundage, but your brace height will be out of whack and it probably won't shoot well. It lowers poundage because the limbs won't be drawn as far back at the low brace height as they would be at the higher brace height. That's why adjusting your brace height SLIGHTLY can help with microtuning an arrow in. Has she actually shot the bow yet? She's going to be pulling a lot less than the 28" it's marked poundage is measured at, could be as much as 3# less per inch of draw she's short of the 28". It might work, might not.
By now, she should be shooting 60#s.
I never think to look at the dates!
Consider removing material equally from the sides of the limbs. If you can make the limbs 10% narrower the draw weight should drop 10%. I've done this on two bows with good results. From other forums, 10% seems to be a reasonalbe maximum amount of material to remove, so if that isn't enough weight reduction I would leave th bow alone and look for another bow.
Looking to reduce weight on a Damon Howatt hunter recurve. Looking for a place that will work on bow. Any places would be appreciated.
There are several bowyers and bow “Doctors” on LeatherWall; 2bears does reductions and the guys who’ve had him work on their high-dollar customs have been pleased.
FWIW, I wouldn’t bother reducing a Bear or Howatt unless it had specific sentimental value. Easier to trade for one that’s where you want it from the shop.
And anyone looking for a low-cost starter should consider the Galaxy Black Ember (something like that!) as well.... unless you’re pretty tall... the current version of the Sage comes in an XL version for you long-draw types....
I’d have her try it as a shorter draw equates to less peak poundage.
Thanks GF for the information!
