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Carbon arrow insert glue?
What type of glue works best for carbon arrows? Is there a glue which works good and is removable in the future in case a person would want to install a heavier insert for tuning purposes? Or to shorten shafts just a little?
Low temp hot-melt when and if used properly will hold inserts well enough, and can be removed.
Superglue will hold until a hard impact breaks the bond. It can be removed by using a drill bit as a slide hammer inside the shaft.
24 hour epoxies seem to hold the best, but are not very removable without risking damage. I have removed them before, but it's not a guarantee that no damage will be done.
I've made up my arrows for many years and have tried all adhesives. I seldom have a problem with any of them except when shooting/removing from 3D targets...some of them really grip. Tips have come out occasionally with any of the adhesives. Lately I've used the AAE cyanoacrylate which has powdered rubber mixed with it...supposed to take up the shock. I shoot a lot of 3D and haven't lost a tip yet so time will tell.
I use AAE also but don't ever remove the inserts.
I've found the Impact Tough Gorilla glue, in the clear bottle with a blue cap, to work great. I don't really ever find the need to remove my inserts, though. It's a cheaper option to GT Tip Grip that I can pickup at any local hardware store.
Dakota, I have used the craft type hot glue for many years with great success. It is rubbery so never fails from impact and if you heat the metal insert just until it is hot enough to melt the glue the heat will not damage the epoxy used to build the shaft itself. I use the medium temp glue. It comes in low, medium, and high heat temp versions. Key info, put a field point into an insert and, holding it in some locking pliers, heat the insert just until it melts the glue stick when you touch it. Do NOT heat the glue stick! That causes a weak cold bond. Also do not overheat the tip. When the insert is hot enough, perhaps 20 seconds in one small blue flame on a gas stove burner, Then test it and heat more if necessary and rub the glue stick around the insert for a small deposit of glue around the insert. Then install it in the shaft rotating it as you push it in, release the pliers, wipe the excess glue off and stand the arrow on it's tip to cool. Heat can expand the air in the tube and push the tip out if you lay them down. If you see discoloration of the last inch or so of arrow, sometimes redish, that usually means that you used too much heat and I would be suspect of the integrity of that arrow. You wont have to worry about that if you follow these directions and a judicious use of heat applied to the tip at any time will allow you to remove or re-orient the tip.
Good luck with your endeavor!
I pull all my nocks out when installing inserts using hot-melt. Having the field point in the insert creates just enough air pressure inside to want to push the inserts back out when you let go. If you take the nocks out, the air can't compress. A trick I learned many years ago while making target arrows with glue-in Nibb points.
I respect all the opinions on hot melt glue.....but I can't understand why this would be used to glue an insert into arrow. I remember back in the day when you would use hot melt glue on aluminum arrows and how many tips I would lose when I pulled the arrows out of targets, etc. Same holds true now, especially with carbon arrows burying deeper into Styrofoam 3D targets. I've been with people who had their inserts glued in with hot melt and seen them pull the inserts right out at 3D courses....couldn't even finish shooting because they lost all their tips in the targets.
How about if you hit wood with that same arrow....bye bye head. I've also lost tips when I had a pro shop tell me that I "had to" use slow setting glue to ensure there was some "give" in my insert.....and that the super glues might crack and I'd lose my heads in the target. Well, when a few of my inserts pulled out in targets I pulled the rest out with a pair a pliers and went to this - 30-60 Outdoors Insert Weld Insert Glue
I'm in the school that I want that insert "welded" into my shaft. That glue works awesome. Thanks all and shoot straight.
Okay, but the guy specifically asked about glues to use so he can remove them if needed. Did you not read the original question?
Low temp hot melt will not allow a point to be pulled out of wood when glued in properly, I know from personal experience, twice in the last month. The same is true for rubber deer. I've glued competitors points in on the range after their superior adhesive failed. Do it right, with the right adhesive, and there won't be a problem. I use Stanley Brand S. Because they're low temp, you hold the insert/point with your fingers. If you need pliers it's too hot. Warm the insert, heat the glue.
5 minute epoxy especially when tuning broadheads...To remove I put in a field point half way and heat that...They come out pretty easy!
Newer low temp hot melts don't have the same issues as the ones from 20 years ago. Folks seem to want to want the newest option, but overlook the best.
Thanks guys that's a lot of options, I have 2 dozen new arrows and the idea of installing the insert permanent and then trying to tune the bow just bothers me. I may try the hot melt idea on a few until I'm sure the length is right and tunes good with broadheads, then may switch to something permanent if there is problems with tips coming out. But if hot melt is working good just leave them and do the rest that way.
Easton and Gold Tip-DO NOT USE ANY HOT MELT??
I had the same issue as you. I didn't want to permanently install the inserts Into my fmj arrows before finding the right length and insert weight.
The Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex works really well. I've had a few inserts come partially out with hard hits into targets (only a handful over hundreds of shots). But it was very easy to put the inserts back in.
Have always used hot melt...on ALL brands of carbon shafts.
Hot melt. From my perspective, inserts are a wear part so it is sensible to be able to reverse the bond to replace. The same as I wouldn't weld on brake pads.
Walmart bag for tuning and testing. Bohning "insert iron" for locking them down to the shafts.
ditto on gorilla glue light blue top !!
Insert Iron ..... .. it expands as it dries and is impact resistant ... slow cure, so I can glue, and do spin checks and align the blades to the position I want, I despise the fast set crap...... 4 blades I set up so they are a + ... Viper Tricks I set up so the smaller blades are straight up/down.. 3 blades, I'll align with the vanes (it is just something I do)......I'll first screw on my BH to the insert, insert in arrow and do the first spin check, if there is wobble I'll use the G5 tool to square the arrow again, maybe even try a different insert if needed ....re check, if all is fine I then glue, a few drops and rotate the insert and align as needed, wipe away any excess.... spin check again, if all is then fine, set aside to dry...
Me too....Gorilla glue with te blue top.
I like the AAE also and you can remove the inserts with a little effort. If bateshafting for lenght just cut from nock end unless you are using weight forward shafts. Shawn