sharpening magnus with KME. HELP!!
Equipment
Hello all!
I'm currently in the process of trying to put a sharp edge on my Magnus Stinger 2 blades using the KME sharpener. I know the KME is supposed to be a dummy proof system, but what can I say? I'm quite special. I have actually been able to obtain somewhat decent results with it, just kind of inconsistent.
I have a question about how exactly do you place the head in the jaws to get the best results. I am using the big 150 grainers where the ferrule gets in the way, so I have been removing the blade to do the sharpening process. I have been having a problem with getting a consistent bevel all along the edge of the broadhead. For example I will be getting a lower bevel towards the tip of the broadhead, then a higher bevel towards the back, and even getting a lower bevel again towards the very back of the head. I will even be getting a mismatched bevel on one side of the cutting edge to the other side. This problem should be nullified by the KME keeping it at a consistent angle on both sides at all times. I think the problem has to do with the way I am putting the head in the jaws.
How do you guys do it? If I put the head in the jaws to deep (say right down the center of the blade) I will actually start grinding on the KME jig itself. I have also tried putting it in so it runs down the center of the vent on the opposite side of the blade that I want to sharpen. I have also tried putting it right on the side of where the ferrule would be if the blade were still in it. This is giving me fits! Can anyone tell me where I am going wrong? If you could even post a picture of how a Magnus blade sits in the KME jig for best results I would be most appreciative.
You aren't special, they are super hard to sharpen on a KME! They are too flexible to put any pressure on at ALL! I had my best luck sharpening them with one of there Magnus Accuharp carbide sharpeners and then stropping! When your ready to buy heads again and you want something that sharpens well with a KME, the Cutthroat broadheads from rmsgear were designed around using the KME I think and I know they use a KME to set the grind at the shop before they ship them out. They don't cost that much more and I feel they are worth every cent of difference and have used both.
One other note, if you have the broadhead model, try and find a set of Diamond stones wide enough to do the whole blade at once. I found some super cheap ones on eBay that are 3x10" for $40ish that worked great! Another trick is lots of water, I put the stones on an old towel to work and I have a spray bottle full of water, Windex bottle, and I spray the stones regularly. Then I bought the deluxe KME knife sharpening kit and extra stones to the corse end of the spectrum. I've also recently bought a 1"x30" belt sander and it's the cat's meow for sharpening quick, 400 grit belts and then I bought a leather belt for it on Amazon and can power strop. The power stropping is amazing for finishing up what you've done with the KME and for retouching up your blades in between hunts!
If you call KME, they will explain your particular situation. I agree, the problem is in the attachment into the jaws. But, I can't see what the blade looks like after you removed it from the ferule, so I can't advise.
I have no problem on the KME knife sharpener. Do you have the knife or the broached sharpener?
I use the knife sharpener for Stingers. Key is to find the right angle. Use sharpie to find and set proper angle. Once I find the angle (marker comes off evenly) remember that number and lock it down.
I have been building these sharpeners for over 35 years
I have been building these sharpeners for over 35 years
X-Block, not sure if these are still made but I have a few left from when I was actively selling them.
X-Block, not sure if these are still made but I have a few left from when I was actively selling them.
I have used the sharpeners I build and also the X-Block built by someone else both are good and fast.
When I shot stingers I used the kme broadhead sharper without any issues. The videos on YouTube and Magnus site were useful also. I use it on my black hornet ser razors also. Scary sharp!
I use a KME broadhead sharpener all the time for my Magnus blades. Yes, you have to remove the blade from the ferrule. Then it is no different than sharpening any other broadhead blade. I don't use a lot of force and I seem to get pretty consistent bevels. I use the oil that KME supplies and finish them out on a diamond stone that is wide enough for the broadhead as well. Once done on the stones, I strop them on leather impregnated with years of honing compound. Razor sharp. You do have to address the tip differently by re-positioning the blade in the clamp, due to the tip design on the Magnus Stinger heads. When you re-assemble them, be sure to spin test the heads. Heads from the factory are dialed in to .003 at the tip. I don't have those kinds of measuring tools at my house, but I can tell real quick if the blade is slightly off when I put it on an arrow spinner. If there is any wobble the head won't fly well (no head will actually), so I loosen the screw and adjust to make sure it spins true.
I am not sure why you are having bevel problems. The KME sharpener is pretty straight forward. Lanski sharpeners also work well on the Magnus blades.
I've gotten the old stingers shaving hair effortlessly now! Thanks for the comments, fellas!
The fastest way to put a shaving sharp edge on magnus heads is with a tru-sharp stone/block set up. The last time I bought one was from fsdiscountarchery, I think it was about 10 bucks. These are simple V-blocks with stones attached, and they work.
