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broadhead for alaskan moose
I am booked for fall 2018 moose in Alaska. Shoot a Mathews Ovation at 31" at 68#. Axis 300 with NAP Thunderhead 125 gr. & Scott release. I usually shoot 5" feathers here in WY account very little moisture. Alaska will be different and will be experimenting with several different vanes. Any thoughts on this setup ? Has worked great on elk here in WY. I my also switch broadhead if flight with vanes becomes an issue.
Lots of horsepower there with the 31” draw.
I went with a low profile, 2 1/4” stiff vane in a four fletch configuration. Better rest and cable clearance, with excellent control. I was having some contact issues with the Blasers that I used for several years, but only on my current main hunting bow.
I think I will switch over to four fletch completely by the spring.
I’ve killed two moose with 100grain Wasp Boss broadheads with 2” Blazer vanes out of a 70 lb bow. An Ak/Yukon and a Canada. I think my arrow weighed a little over 400 grains. They worked fine with no issues, but I will be using a 125 grain head for them in the future.
I’d definitely suggest using vanes. Highly likely you will be dealing with moisture of some sort. Otherwise, I think your setup would work fine. Good luck! Moose hunting is a blast.
And the rest of your set up is good to go. Re-fletch and get sighted in.
Shot placement is more important on moose than BH.
I did not have a problem with my feathers and it rained on us every day at some point for 13 days. Spray them with some kind of water proofer. Other than that your set up sounds just fine.
Switch to blazers you wont regret, otherwise your setup will be fine
Moose die quick. I like the iron will heads thou. They are tough and penetrate deep
Thunderheads were the first broadhead I ever shot, no Matter how well tuned my bow was, I couldn’t get them to fly straight!! Lol Your set-up is fine, I’m impressed that you can get them to fly straight!
Ditto on Thunderheads....I couldn't get consistent flight.Moose wheelhouse is the size of a ...well..................wheelhouse.70 pound any bow paired with good flying arrows and sharp blades......you fill in the name and model of it all
I stopped using Thunderheads when the sharpness on their blades went down. Talked to the manufacturer and he said he had not changed a thing....but I had old spare blades and new spare blades and they were quite different. If set up works on Elk it will certainly work on Moose.
I had the same issues with Thunderheads when I switched to carbon shafts. Absolutely loved them when I shot aluminum shafts, but couldn’t make them work with the carbons.
Thunderheads will be fine. I would use Hellrazors.
I did the fletching thing a few years ago, tried about 10 kinds. FlexFletch FFP-360 on my moose arrows. Blazers were at the bottom for me.
I have killed two moose with thunderheads years and one quartering to and one broadside. The broadside actually took longer to die. The quarter to was a young bull taken strictly for meat. Thunderheads will fine but personally would not be my first choice.
Well, if a Thunderhead won't work than you better just take a gun because they're probably in the top 2 of modular heads.
Shot my moose last year with solids. They performed excellent. I would use either solids or iron will.
I have shot 4 Moose, all with 150 grain Magnus I, 4 Blade and all were 1 shot kills with one being a complete pass thru. The other 3 all stopped in the off side shoulder.
I'm with tradmt, the Thunderhead is the best of the best. Started using them in the 80's and still using them today. I would say the top two modular heads are Thunderhead and Muzzy. All other modular heads are patterned after those two.
Shoot what you’re comfortable with. Sounds like a great setup. I used to think water was a big issue with feathers. I haven’t had much of an issue on first shots. It’s when you shoot them a second time when they look like a wet rat. By all means try the vanes, you’ve got 9 months, but if it’s frustrating getting something to shoot well for whatever reason don’t hesitate to go back.
I’d be mostly concerned with moisture. If using feathers do what Shiras did. My only gripe about thunderheads is they will rust, a dab of oil or wax would probably prevent it. Good luck!!
old school 100 grn 4 blade muzzy worked for me 57lbs 29" draw .....1/4 away hard it went completely through out the right shoulder ......if it were me I go with just what you have and been practicing and killing other stuff with itll do its job if you do yours good luck whack a big one MikeC
What you've got will kill them deader than dead. When you start shooting a trad bow you realize how much extra power a compound has and no longer worry about the compound! lol
I'd steer away from feathers. Problems with moisture that require treatments and feather noise if brushed against the feather's spine.
A good sharp broadhead (I like 3 bladed solid VPA in 125 g) shot through the lungs will kill the animal 100% of the time.
Suggest to verify that each hunting arrow shoots correctly with a practice or dull BH that you will be using at the max distance you can shoot accurately.
If you're going to refletch all your arrows, suggest indexing them prior. I marking the stiffest side and align the cock vane with that mark and originate that vane up. That way, all my arrows are the same regarding spine. I had one flyer, discovered the index was off 90 degrees.
Good luck in your training and best of luck on the hunt.
Disagree on the feather comments, all I have ever shot is feathers and never had a single problem with them in any weather. I do have a rain cover I put over them when it is raining and I have also used the feather dry powder on them on some hunts all work great.
Check out the Iron Will heads. They are made out of tool steal and guaranteed for life. I killed a nice bull with them last September.