Summit Treestands
Correct arrow length
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Kevin @ Wisconsin 21-Apr-18
Tonybear61 21-Apr-18
LINK 21-Apr-18
JTV 21-Apr-18
wyobullshooter 21-Apr-18
Trophy8 21-Apr-18
Ermine 21-Apr-18
oldgoat 21-Apr-18
x-man 21-Apr-18
Bou'bound 21-Apr-18
Kevin @ Wisconsin 21-Apr-18
oldgoat 21-Apr-18
Treeline 21-Apr-18
Ironbow 21-Apr-18
Buffalo1 21-Apr-18
Drop tine 22-Apr-18
LINK 23-Apr-18
Ziek 23-Apr-18
Grunt-N-Gobble 23-Apr-18
LINK 23-Apr-18
Shawn 23-Apr-18
21-Apr-18

Kevin @ Wisconsin's embedded Photo
Kevin @ Wisconsin's embedded Photo
I recently purchased some new arrows and have been shooting the full length shafts. So far they have been shooting great and group together.

Do I cut them down a little or leave the full length shafts?

My draw length is 30.5 inches and the 6mm FMJ in the picture is 32 inches.

From: Tonybear61
21-Apr-18
You answered your own question, if flying good leave them alone.

From: LINK
21-Apr-18
Leave them nothing wrong with your arrow weighing 20 grains more. I have this phobia of cutting the arrow short enough the broadhead sets right above my hand. I know it’s not a big deal but I like my arrows about the length yours are past the shelf maybe even a hair longer.

From: JTV
21-Apr-18
check to see what draw weight you have and what arrow spine is recommended for an arrow cut back to within 1-1.5" in front of the rest (total arrow length).. I never leave arrows that long.. I cut all mine to the 1-1.5" in front of the rest..... I have a full 30" draw, and shoot a 28" arrow ... accuracy is superior ... when ever I see an arrow that long, it reminds me of a rookie who dosnt know how to pick the correct arrow/spine ..

21-Apr-18
Agree with the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ theory.

From: Trophy8
21-Apr-18
Throw your BH's on and see what you get. Personally my arrows are cut to he front of riser, that's what works for me.

From: Ermine
21-Apr-18
You want correct spine and the setup that shoots the best. With that said I cut down as short as I can go. Shorter arrows are less affected by wind. But you got to keep your arrow weight you want and the correct spine

From: oldgoat
21-Apr-18
If you leave them like they are and mushroom a tip then you can trim it back and fix it and use that arrow for water shots at a 3d tourney or shoot grouse etc with it.

From: x-man
21-Apr-18
The ONLY thing that matters is "is the spine correct, and how do the broadheads fly?"

Which spine deflection did you buy? What is the draw weight of your bow? It is very possible that you may have to shorten the arrows some just to stiffen them.

From: Bou'bound
21-Apr-18
Cut

21-Apr-18
320 spine 6mm fmj shooting out a 70# Chill X that is maxed out.

From: oldgoat
21-Apr-18
Have you shot broadheads yet?

From: Treeline
21-Apr-18
Cut them shorter to stiffen them and go up in point weight

From: Ironbow
21-Apr-18
If they shoot great, why cut them?

They only reason to cut them if something is wrong or you want to shoot heavier heads.

From: Buffalo1
21-Apr-18
Test them with BH's, then you will know if the spine is stiff enough or is more spine is needed.

From: Drop tine
22-Apr-18
Test a few shorter arrows to see if they are more accurate. A closer grouping means better spine. I like the idea of longer arrows after seeing some pictures of broadheads going through the bow hand, and adding a bit of weight as long as the spine is appropriate. Not sure why having an arrow 1" longer than the rest automatically makes it the best spine.

From: LINK
23-Apr-18
Yes you must cut your 10.6 gpi arrows down 3 inches and add 25 grains on your broadhead. This way your arrow will weigh nearly the exact same but your foc will be perfect. That will make you far more accurate and critters will start falling at your feet. ;)

If they shoot good and the extra 3” doesn’t bother you, why cut them. If it bothers you cut them. Personally an extra couple inches has never bothered me. ;)

From: Ziek
23-Apr-18
"If they shoot great, why cut them?"

Because there's more to your total system than just arrow flight? You can make almost any length arrow shoot perfectly by adjusting spine and/or point weight. For instance, like many, I use a bow quiver. I won't accept arrows that are too long to fit within the confines of the bow. That limits the physical size of the bow I will shoot, and the arrow length. Any advantage of maneuverability of a short bow is totally negated if your arrows are hanging out past the limbs. That may not be an issue for you, but there are good reasons why some choose the equipment they do beyond what may be obvious. In this case, a shorter arrow may have other advantages. Since he already has a long draw length, a shorter arrow would be easier to draw in a confined space, like a blind. If it also results in needing a heavier point, so much the better.

23-Apr-18
IMO....... You could cut those back a few inches, probably back to the middle of the riser where the "X" is and be good. You'll gain some speed and the shafts will be stiffer, assuming you don't change anything else. You could change to a heavier insert (or broadhead) to increase FOC, but be careful, because if you go too heavy then the spine gets weaker.

From: LINK
23-Apr-18
Ohh I missed where he sated he uses a bow quiver or has any other problems with his setup. My apologies. ;)

I agree with grunt. According to the charts you arrow is borderline week on spine anyways. Personally I wouldn’t touch it, if it’s shooting well , but if I did I would stay with the same point weight. If for nothing else I’m sure you have plenty of good broadheads in your desired weight.

I still like the longer arrow. What happens when your cable driven drop away doesn’t come up when drawing and your arrow is 3 inches shorter. I hope your broadheads aren’t sharpened on the trailing edge.

From: Shawn
23-Apr-18
You should cut 3"s off those arrows and shoot a 175 grain VPA out of that set up. I myself hate that much arrow out in front of the rest. If your broad heads hit with your field points no need to really change a thing I just suggested what I would do. Shawn

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