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ok to mix cleth and 24db together?
as title says ok to mix the 2 ? getting ready to mow my clover and spray a few days later
Yep, it has worked just fine for me. Mixed in the tank. Saves time.
What mix for clover as I got a thistle problem?
Has worked great for me when mixing them together
Been mixing them together for years never an issue like one and done Lewis
thx guys want to make sure.....
thx guys want to make sure.....
I'm glad to hear that as I did it a few weeks ago to a clover plot. I haven't seen it since spraying but will this weekend. Now I need rain. It's dry as a popcorn fart in ETexas !
Label say's no but the experienced people above prove you can do it. I would spray first then mow a few days later.
I usually mow first then spray a couple days later.
I usually mow and wait a week before spraying. Never mixing clethidin and 24d but will try it
They now have a chemical called imox that kills both grass and broadleafs in one application. Keystone chemical has it, check it out.
I looked at my plot today. I got a good kill on some weeds, but not others. I think some of them were pretty mature. Seems like it got the smaller ones ok, but not the taller ones. I think the weed in question is mare's tail, but I'm not sure. I find it hard to kill. The grasses were in a minority, but I got a good kill on them. No residue in the tank or problems of that nature when I cleaned it up, and I didn't get to do that until 2.5 hours after spraying. Next time I try that, I will go heavier on the Butyrac.
i saw that imox stuff.....but wow did you loom at the price! i got my stuff from keystone as well and says spray 24db and cleth seperate not sure y
If you add your expenses for both together I think it would pencil out pretty close. Plus for me spraying once is worth a fair amount. Ymmv
how often can i hit my clover with 24db? i frost seeded a section and it has clover but has alot of small white flowering weed ( not sure what it is) seems lime last round of 24db didnt knock it out maybe stunted it a bit but swems to be coming back... i may just have to burn it down with gly and start over .....
Imox is simply generic Raptor at about half the price. Yes, it’s more expensive but a typical spray tank @ 25 gallons needs only 3 or 4 oz. compared to a quart of 2-4DB so by my calculations it’s about the same. Safe for clover, alfalfa and chicory yet kills weeds and grass. DB just kills weeds, you need clethodim to knock the grass back.
I just bought a quart and will try it this weekend on my spring planting.
For you guys spraying, remember that any spray works best early in spring when the weeds first emerge. If they are mature it’s harder to get an effective kill.
i think the issue with mixing the two has to do with the addition of crop oil that is required with the cleth. adding crop oil to the 24db make it more effective and can potentially harm the clover. imox does out required Nitrosol for application (ams+surfactant) which is another added cost. i already have cleth on hand, i need to grab from 24db
ya pat i know ....i wish i had sprayed about 3 weeks earlier... can any of you ID this weed? its all over my clover, im wondering if i should mow it real low and wait a few days and spray .....or burn it down and start over
I have a thistle problem in my clover. Three years ago there was 15-20 thistle plants so I pulled them and mowed 2-3 times. Last year I mowed the clover 4 times thinking I was killing the thistles. I didn't understand thistles growth. Did the research this year after the 15-20 thistles grew into a solid 1/2 of thistles. We had a very wet spring and rained everyday for 7 days. When i got a rain free day the thistles were 30" high. On 5-13-18 I sprayed with Imox and Nitsol. On 5-20-18 the leaves were starting to turn yellow so I bush hogged the plot to 12" high. Just starting to get some new growth so I will spray the 2nd batch. It did look like a almost 100% kill on the grass and misc weeds. I will post a update later in the year on the thistle control.
are you saying it thistle i have?
Something interesting one of my best stands of clover is actually our yard which my wife mows regularly.Not one clover seed has ever been planted in our yard.We don’t weed and seed our yard nor spray for weeds she just keeps it mowed and The clover flourish. I am really going to try this approach on a couple of my clover plots and seed what happens mow mow and mow.Yes we deer feeding in our yard a lot.Lewis
Clover in my yard has just taken off in the last couple years. My farmer who bales my grass hay fields said for some reason he has noticed clover take off in grass fields he bales that also never have had clover seeded in them. He can't explain it.
Can you spray imox on iron clay cow peas for broadleaf Control?
The raptor label claims it’s safe for both field peas and cow peas. I assume that’s also true for winter peas however there is no mention of that.
Always read labels to see what the residual or "carry over" time period is. When one uses herbicides, know what your next crop is to be planted in that area and how the herbicide may affect the subsequent crop.
i bought a quart of the imox (generic raptor). you get more acres from 1 quart of imox than a gallon of butyrac. i have alot of broadleafs in one of my clover fields. i'll post pics of how it does.
anyone have any idea on what kind of weed im dealing with ?
I know that you posted two photos, but I am not getting a good look at it.....could you pull one out of the ground, and put it on a neutral (white) background?
here is the weed im dealing with.... tonight i mowed it down low....like lawn low. gonna give it 3-4 days tben spray it again
Not sure what kind of weed that is but you could take it to your county extention agent or Google weeds in your area, I did it before and think it has weed pics in a pdf file. I like chicory in my plots , imox is good to go on that too.
another pic of the mystery weed.....usually i struggle with rag weed but this stuff is all over this year.
Possibly Wooly cupgrass, but I don’t think that’s what it is.
I replanted my clover fields with Durana this past fall and they look great for the most part. I have clipped them a couple of times, sprayed with clethodim and have plans to spray with 2,4-DB(Butyrac) this weekend. I was unaware until reading this thread that you can use Imox on clover without injury, I have some in my shop that I use on Clearfiled Sunflowers and it works great. My concern is that it apparently has soil activity that limits the interval of replanting with some crops due to the residual effect, and wonder if it might limit the reseeding of the clover and shorten the life of the plot. Does anyone have any experience or information regarding my concern? I believe I will use my 2,4-DB this year unless I'm reassured the expense, time and hard work I've put into the clover fields will not be effected by Imox. Has anyone used it over the course of, say, 3-5 years without any obvious problem?
Not sure but looks similar to chickweed Lewis
Mares tail is very hard to get rid of but it also really isn't that big of deal. Its not a super competitive weed. The Mares tail thrives in poorly drained soil especially of marginal quality.
well good news bad news.... clover is looking alot better since i mowed it low, today i went and hit it again with 24db. bad news is i have 2 acres of real world soy beans i planted that were doing good (4"tall) but now the deer are hammering them and i dont think they will withstand the brows pressure being so young. tomorrow im gonna grab some of the liquid fence deer and tabbit repellant stuff and spray the perimeter to try to keepem off it for a bit.....othewise looks like ill be tilling it under.....uhg
2 acres is not enough to withstand deer browse. Unless you have 10 acres or low deer numbers they will mow down the soybeans about 2-3 weeks after you plant. Electric fencing works as shown in pic on my 1.5 acre plot with real high deer densities. Also I assume all you guys spraying 24db and cleth are also including crop oil and surfactant per instructions. If not you need to be.
jr you do have the option of leaving it alone and let them hammer it and around mid August broadcast wheat and or oats over them then your plot will be good into the winter done it a bunch of times with good results good luck Lewis
well here is my delema.....2 years ago i did 2 acres of real world soy beans , i double row fenced them like in one of pats plots. they did awesome, i removed the fence around 1st of september and the deer avoided it like the plague.....only to destroy them in feb-march long after hunting season. this area is all woods no ag around and very low dpsm (6-8). i chaulked that up to the same idea as invisable dog fence the deer learned and knew after being zapped a few Times. so this year i tried unfenced....as of now i would saw they ate 1/3rd of them. if i can keep them out ill be ok . tonight i hung 24 aluminum pie plates around it on strings and i sprayed the perimeter with some bondide deer/rabbit repellant i got at tractor supply today. i think this will work for a bit but i also think it wont be long before they catch on....
Agreed, it won’t work for long. Electric fence is the only thing I’ve used that works for an extended period of time. I’d suggest taking your fence down in early August vs September 1st. The leaves should still be palatable and attractive to them, yet far enough along that they won’t wipe them out. They should still be used to being able to access your field come bow season. They will quit browsing on them when the leaves start turning.
Another thing I’d recommend is broadcasting some type of cereal grain in the standing beans around September 1st. If you get much moisture, they will sprout and be another attractant in the fall as well as the soybeans.
i had planned on broadcasting radish/ brassica in august.... i could do fence again just last time results were not good
Unfenced soybean plot 2017
Unfenced soybean plot 2017
I was onced criticized for fencing my beans since I was depriving the deer of an incredible summer food source. I thought about it and agreed with the critic. The next season I lost the e-fence and three years later never looked back. Yes, I lose a percentage to browsing but I’m also drawing deer away from neighboring properties including summer bachelor herds. Now, if you can’t get your beans established that’s different, but even if you lose half your plot I think the positives outweigh the negative.
Best solution to this problem is plant bigger, or more plots so you have best of both worlds.
i dont have the acreage you have pat... i only have about 4 acres of plot that abuts thousands of acres on all sides of state lands. the area has little to no pressure during archery season .
Buck coming out of my beans
Buck coming out of my beans
My soybean plot above is only 1.5 acre. I have a good amount of acreage but only a tiny percentage is tillable. Maybe 10 acres out of my 312.
Then you don’t have many deer. My 2 acre plots in KY would never make 6” if I did not have a fence. I know this from experience:). Here they are on my joint vetch waiting for me to take the fence down on my beans
Agree with Mike. This fence quit working and I didn’t realize it for a few weeks. This pic was taken August 22nd. If I don’t fence off my corn & bean plots, the deer decimate them. A couple of them are over 2.5-3 acres. I’m not wanting to provide summer forage for them. There is an ocean of corn and beans around me. My plots are all somewhat secluded and the deer feel safe while feeding in them.
We’re at about 20/sq mile. Not huge, but not low either. I think it’s a regional thing since our deer disperse to yards in the winter then trickle back slowly through the summer. By the time they are all back, my plots are mature enough to sustain browsing pressure.
heck i only have about 6 dpsm in my area.....problem in summer is there is no ag around, just mature forest and deer come from quite aways to it in summer time....