Contributors to this thread:
Drilling in beans
6” or 12” rows? My drill has half the holes blocked, I think I will be better off with 6”..... what do you think?
What is your population setting? Are you planning on spraying? I have zero experience with drills, but have planted in between the rows with my 30” planter (basically 15” rows). It helped some with weed issues but made it a bit more difficult to spray.
What group, variety...group 4? Planting now, Id go 6" around 140,000 population. The later you plant, the more population and wider the row. Planting at July 1, Id be at 12" rows and 200,000 population.
I'm picking up seed today, I haven't used this new to me drill, it's a 620 international. It was last used for beans and we dumped some in and dragged it across the yard to verify everything was working. this is turning into a serious farming operation.
Do both and see which one you like best for future drilling.
Here’s what 30” rows look like 30 days after planting. By maturity you could barely move between the rows. I can’t imagine a 6 or even 12” row on my beans. At that point why not just broadcast?
A lot of guys are drilling beans 7" rows now in my area. They canopy the ground faster and a lot of times you can get away with just one application of herbicide.
Junior, Our farmer does 7" rows as well, for what you stated and also that bean varieties vary greatly from tall ones to bush type etc. I believe they use taller varieties with closer spacing?
I have always broadcasted as a drill is too expensive for me; however, we have good results doing it this way.
Good luck OP.
What works best for me is a hybrid of both 7.5 inch and 15 inch rows. My VanBrundt drill has 12 openings 7.5 inches apart. If the openings are numbered from 1 to 12, I plug holes 3, 4, 9 & 10. Those are the openings that my tractor tires drive on. My experience has been that the tires compact the ground (sandy loam) a few inches as I am driving along drilling the beans.
As such, those rows do not have great germination/survival as many of seeds end up lying on top of the ground. If I plant deeper to get rows 3, 4, 9, & 10 sufficiently covered, then the seed in the other rows are quite deep which affects germination/survival as the seeds use more energy just to emerge.
Also by plugging 3, 4, 9, & 10, I avoid driving over soybean plants while spraying as I have wide rows to drive in. While some say you can drive on small soybeans plants without hurting survival, I have not found that to be true. Almost always all the beans I drive over with the tractor tires die. I was never happy knowing I am going to kill up to 33% of the plants I drill.
The tight rows will help to reach canopy sooner and the wider rows helps me drive down rows spraying without killing a lot of plants. I plant about 65 lbs, to the acre (175,000 seeds). Since I am plugging 4 of the 12 openings, I increase my drill population setting 84 lbs to the acre. Doing so, plants more seed per row, but keeps the seed population at 175,000 per acre. I plant heavier since I know my plants will never reach a heavily podded stage.
This is for an 8 acre plot. Deer population is such that the beans never get over 18" high. In early August, I drill brassicas or radishes into the standing soybeans. The brassica/radish mix starts to come on as the beans begin to dry out and loose attractiveness. This routine has worked well for me.
Good luck and keep us posted what you decided and how it worked.
I planted half 6 and half 12, I thought about Osceolas method when I was planting, probably will do that next time. 6" rows are pretty common in ag fields up here. cover the rows faster
keep us posted on your results...always good to test new ideas!
Depends on the type of soybean, medium, tall, medium bush type. With a bush type you may want wider rows. A narrow medium height bean use narrower rows with increased seed spacing.
Other than variety/group, height/bush coincides with weather, population, nutrients and obviously planting date. I think its always best to split plots with beans. Half early planted, and half late. Early beans 2 weeks before the neighbor's works pulling them to your plot. Since deer tend to lose interest as the plant matures. The later planted (young tender) will help keep them coming back even after the nuts start falling.
Wow!Many thanks.I found it pretty impressive!Will explore further
My beans are looking pretty good. Thankfully the deer have laid off them a bit in favor of the alfalfa.
Since the hay was cut 10 days ago the alfalfa has exploded, it’s nice to see the deer letting the beans grow