Contributors to this thread:
What broadhead are you using for Elk
What broadhead are you useing for Elk.
Iron Will Kill
Iron Will Kill
These ones worked well last year. No reason to change.
Just magnus or Sliks for me
Those iron wills look nice though, hopefully I win some!
Haven't decided. I'm about out of the original Magnus heads that aren't made any more. Probably Zwickey as I have a bunch. Really like the looks of the Cutthroats. Might have to swing by there on my way to the High Country Shoot this afternoon.
I am shooting G5 Montec, Slick Trick Razor Tricks and Magnus Stingers now. Trying to decide.
I'd use a Slicktrick 125gr ViperTrick.... hard to beat their accuracy, sharpness and strength ...
Magnus Buzz Cut,,,,,,,, worked great on pigs so far
G5 Stryker 100 gr. Performed great on multiple bulls.
Iron Will V100's. The way they fly, and the devastation I've seen them cause over a number of deer, elk, bear, and turkey's the last year has been amazing.
Slick trick standard 100gr
Wac'em G5 Montec Slick Trick VPA
Muzzy 125s for the past 33 years. Before that it was a hodgepodge. Now I'm using Iron Will 125.
3 blade muzzy or Magnus stingers. If they are sharp they both work. Lots of great Broadheads.
Slick Trick Standard 100 grain.
Wac 'Ems. 100 gr, 3 blade, deep six. The only deep six broadhead I'll shoot. Unfortunately, I think they stopped making that variant. Can still find them online.
Zwickey Eskimo 125 gr. 2 blade
Been using Shuttle T's for a while, but getting ready to tweak the setup a little bit and will probably end up going with the 175gr Blood Eagles from Valkyrie
Grim Reaper Hades Pro Micro 4 blade. I'm really liking this head.
I have only killed 3 & my son 1. All with 3 blade Rocky Mountains. I've been using some model 3 blade Rocky 40+ years now. Killed 100+ assorted biggame with them..
125 grain Striker mags cuts a big hole
Magnus Stingers, and/or Steel Force this Season.
125gn Nap Killzones or 125gn all steel Vortex if Steve has them ready by September.
magnus black hornet 125gr
I’m with Treeline on using the Cutthroats with trad bows. To me that’s an easy decision, but deciding which bow to take on my first elk hunt is a different story...
100 grain viper tricks for me
Iron Will 100gr Deep Six!!
Wasp Jak Hammers or Jak Knife. 100 gr
INTERESTING FOR SURE. Just last year the VAP BH was the rave. Not even mentioned so far. I will be using the 125 gr vented VAP from the compound bow
Can’t believe how many folks are springing for iron wills! The price tag on them is crazy!
I made the switch to 125 exodus heads last year and was very happy.
Slick Trick 125 Mags. I like that the blades don't rust.
Grim Reaper Fatal Steel 1.5".
I shot 150 gr cutthroats last year. Did an incredible job. Will drop down to 125 gr cutthroats this year. Also shooting with a 50 gr brass insert all on my compound.
Slick Trick Standard 100gr has dropped my three archery elk with ease.
Shot my new broadheads on my new arrows last weekend. 5 for 5 on POI hitting with FP’s. Usually I might have to rotate a nick to get one dialed in.
Slick Trick Viper Tricks 125
Hope to bury a Ramcat into the chest of a big Wyoming bull!
145gr Steelforce Phathead
I shot a bull last year with 125gr. G5 Stryker, and got complete passthrough, blood trail was amazing, I was very impressed. I also shot 2 deer with them with the same results. I've been hunting with traditional archery gear since I was a kid in the 80s. Last 2 years, I just picked up a compound for the first time. Its interesting, what seems to be a sudden resurgence of 2 blade broadheads in the compound world.
Wasp Jak-Hammer select-a-cut 1.5 inch 3 blade on 465 grain Axis 300 camo arrow at 305 fps.
Zwickey Eskimo 125 grain, 4 blade.
Is there twenty dollars difference between the Iron Will vs Magnus vs Steel Force vs VAP vs Cutthroat. I don’t think so and I go through far to many Broadheads to be throwing $40 dollars down range. I remember when I balked at $30 for a three pack.
A good shot with any broad head will do the job. A bad shot with the "best" broad head is still just a bad shot. Use what you please. You can't buy enough range time.
I have one bow set up with Ironwills and the other with 100 grain solids
Magnus Snuffer SS or Stingers
100 gr g5s. I’ve got enough to get me through next 20 years.
Not sure yet. Might be Slick Trick 125 Standards or Vipertricks or 125 Exodus full blade
Interesting timing on this post. I actually went out and shot three broadheads over the weekend to make my final decision. I shot SOLIDs, viper tricks and Magnus Stinger four blade all 100 grains. I was very surprised by my results.. I shot s field tip, then broadhead, for each head at 30-50-60-70 yards. The SOLID is what I have used in years past and it flew as it normally does for me usually 2-3 inches off from my field point even at longer distances, 60 & 70 yards.. the viper trick flew good at 30 & 50 but at 60 I got this weird 'curve ball' effect right before it hit the target, it would be flying like a dart, the right before impact, the arrow would do this crazy drop to the left. Never seen anything like it, but it happened every time beyond 50 yards.. my surprise of the day was the stingers, these flew exactly like my field points every time, when I say exactly, here's what I mean, I would shoot a field point, then shoot the stinger, leaving the field point in the target for reference, at both 30 and 50 yards, I sliced off vanes on my field point arrow.. I was certainly expecting more planing from the stingers because of their length and design, but even at 60 and 70 yards, they were like darts..
CO hunter, I had similar results with the stinger. They flat out fly. And they are deadly. I killed a bull 2 years ago with one. The arrow just kept flying into oblivion.
Since you asked: Iron Will uses A2 steel blades that are cryogenically treated and triple tempered to achieve a high hardness of 60 HRC along with a high impact strength. The high hardness allows us to get an extremely sharp edge that will stay sharp all the way through hide, bone, and tissue for better bleeding, quicker kills, and more penetration, since the force it takes to cut through stays low. We also use higher strength ferrule materials and have a lifetime guarantee. There are many stories of guys shooting multiple animals with one broadhead with no touch up required. Is this worth an extra $20? That is a personal choice, but with all the money, time, and effort put into an elk hunt, it seems like a small price to pay to get the highest performance out of the piece of gear that matters the most when that bull comes into range. A broadhead that costs $10-$13 retail will typically be made of very low cost materials like 420SS blades at 50HRC. There is a world of difference in sharpness and edge retention between this and A2 steel at 60HRC. -Iron Will Lead Engineer
I've shot elk with (in order if memory serves me right starting in 1975) a 6-blade Wasp (junk design...worked to perfection) for my first elk. Continued on to Bear Razorheads, MA3-L's with 1/2 an injector razor blade Pliobonded to each blade, Zwickey 2-blade Delta modded to accept a Bear Razorhead bleeder, and later a heavier gage bleeder from Bighorn, stock 4-blade Zwickey Deltas, and stock 4-blade Zwickey Eskimos.
Also 3-blade NAP Thunderhead 125's, 3-blade Rocky Mt Titanium 100's and Iron Head 125's. Last elk was a Roosevelt shot with an Ulmer Edge 100 gr expandable. Any elk hunting I'd do going forward (Tule) is likely to be with an NAP Spitfire 100.
My point to listing all these heads is they all worked fine on over 35 elk. Don't get hung up about your heads, they will all work....just ensure you use quality heads, they are razor sharp, mounted straight to the shaft, your arrow flight is perfect with your broadheads and you have shot them to ensure you are sighted in with broadheads. Good luck...go kill some elk!
i'm with Treeline 250 grain Cutthroat
Magnus Buzzcut as always.
Don’t get hung up on broadheads. Even a crappy one will work if it’s sharp and you put it in the right spot!
German Kinetics Silver Flame 125 XLs (1 7/8” cutting diameter). Sharp as a scalpel out of the box, tough as a hammer, and they fly awesome.....
I also have used many brands over the years and most if put in the right spot will blow through an elk with ease. Currently using left over Razor and Viper trick 100’s with some Iron Will’s on order.
Bill V, Thanks for the explanation!
I've been using Magnus Snuffers and I have killed several elk with them, nothing wrong with them but I think this year I'm going to hunt with Wac em 125 grain .
Killed a few with the old Wasp 3 blades, then used muzzy for quite a while, last one I used a Rage hypo, they all worked great. Not sure what I’ll use this year.
Funny how it changes over time!! I will shoot a VPA solid like I have for the last 7 or 8 years. I don't think I own one that has not been used on targets or animals. I'll just sharpen em up and go.
Valkyrie for longbow; Magnus Stinger and VPAs for recurve.
I've been looking at Bishop. They look amazing from what research that I have done. Very expensive... Any reviews?
Iron Will all the time now :)
VPA 100 Gr. 3-blade Put many elk in the freezer with these bad boys and don't see any reason to change. Nothing stronger than solid steel...…...No matter the marketing gimmic!
Magnus house here, Stingers or Buzzcuts.
Obsidian at my wallow and close range. Otherwise VPA 160 grain 3-blade glue-on.
I settled on one of the toughest broadheads I've seen. What this head has with stood is amazing and still sharpens up razor sharp. I'm shooting the 125 grain Van Diemans now, and like this head a lot. Flies amazing and is tough!! The Australia's know how to make a great solid broadhead.
125 gr. G5 Strikers. They have worked well for me in the past.
125 grain innerloc's and thunderheads. Don't try to fix what isn't broken
100 grain G5 Strikers. Have been great.
I bought a half dozen of the 100gr iron will and hunted with them in Colorado 2018.
Killed a mule deer ( no faster than than the Muzzy or the cutthroats) My opinion on the iron will broadheads is not a good one. The iron will Broadheads rusted while I was hunting in Colorado by the 3rd day! They would not shave hair after that either. I had to touch every single one of them up every time I came back to camp.
After the hunt was over and I returned home I called and talked with iron will company and they would not refund or offer replacement! I asked how SS could even get rust spots? No comment. Look guys I don’t care to bash anyone, bottom line is all Broadhead a will kill, just make a good shot. You don’t have to spend $35 per Broadhead. Heck if you do you may be disappointed and customer service may not be so well... I still have the Broadheads but will NOT hunt with them. They can not even hold an edge just carrying them around in a quiver!
Interesting.. I've hunted with IWs for roughly 80 days in CO and WY in every weather condition imaginable and never had one rust. Discolored a little during 10 straight days of rain and snow, but it didn't affect the edge.
Not doubting you JC, but if they get dull in your quiver then every other head will too. They are as hard as they come, while still being sharpenable.
Hard to believe but if so you would have been worse off with just about any other head because the IW’s are made with incredibly superior materials.
"I asked how SS could even get rust spots? "
Really? Does any one know what the main component of SS is? Hint, it ain't nickel, chromium, molybdenum, or any other alloying element.
Thunderhead 100,---- yea, I'm old
Than what about the customer service???? I will compare my VPA's killing ability to any head out there just as many will compare theirs, but VPA's customer service is outstanding without bragging!!! Shawn
This year I’ll be shooting my elk with the Black Hornet 4-blade.
I used the sevr mechanical broadhead last year on my bull. It did its job but it was the first and last time I'll ever use anything that requires a rubberband. I kept breaking them putting them back in the quiver or bumping them into something. I'll just stick to my spitfires for now.
JC, stainless steel does rust. That’s why stainless guns are all getting coated in the high end market to make them more rust resistant. It’s a common misconception though.
But if you’re losing your edge on iron wills in your quiver, I’m not exactly sure what’s going on. I’m not an iron will fanboy, but they WILL hold an edge better than 95% of the heads out there. It’s simple, as their steel is incredibly hard. I could be scared of one snapping but not holding an edge
The wife and I will both be shooting northern Broadheads this year been testing them a bit through the winter and been pretty happy with them comparing to our stingers and Buzzcuts we’ve been shooting.
JC, my experience is the edge holding capacity of the IW is amazing. I’ve been shooting the Buff 250s into a foam 3D target for 2 months (100s of shots) and they are still very sharp. In fact it’s still as sharp as some I have purchased new in the past. I’m shooting 1000 grain arrows at 212 FPS so they are driving deep into the foam each time. Probably twice as much distance as a normal set up so they are seeing a lot of friction. I know broadheads can dull from dust and moisture. But I would guess most other brands would be equally or more dulled by the same conditions.
I hunted with 150 grain Magnus Stinger 4 blade last year in CO. Didn't get to unleash one, but I was close. They did the job on a big doe day after Thanksgiving though.
I can see the complaint about an Iron Will rusting. Had it happen to me on a moose hunt. If you touch it up it's fine. It almost wipes off. No severe damage whatsoever. Now I know to oil it next time. The only complaint there is that the materials they use that are better than other heads is more prone to rusting than cheap heads. I do think they should just educate the consumer more with a leaflet in the package or something. It's not a big deal though. But complaining about the edge retention is crazy. They hold an edge better than an other head I've tried and I make it a point to try almost everything. The edge retention is second to none, I find it very doubtful that it could dull in the quiver. They are the only head I've ever shot that shaves AFTER several practise shots.
better steel is always going to need some oil,,,,
I believe there is a world of info in this post for the young bow hunter, or those just starting in the elk hunting game. Most are experienced elk hunters, with various degree of success. And in the bow hunting world we all make up our mind, what broad head works for us. Last fall was my 42 year in in the outfitting game, needless to say in that time I think I have seen just about every thing that can go wrong in the world of broad heads. What I can say is there have never been a better selection of heads available for the modern elk hunter. Basically there are 5 shot angles in the world of elk hunting, strait on, front quartering, broad side, rear quartering ,and the strait away rear shot. Now regardless of what angle the shot was taken, many times the arrow hits at another angle. If your on the hunt of a life time, or waited years to draw , select a head that can make the trip from every angle. I have seen Dozens and dozens of shots over the years, were the head hit at a bad angle but was able to get the job done, were others were less adequate . The old Zwickey is hard to beat ,Iron Will. Cutthroat ,VAP, are all high on my list, if your shooting one of the modern small shafts .166. 204 I have seen tome great things from the land down under, Kayuga Pilot Cut, Vandieman , and Oz cut heads. Make your choices wisely !
“The straight away rear shot” that sounds like a thread title on its own :) :) :)
Still using strickland helix. Still killing animals.
Would love to see Iron Wills made with D-2 56/58 hrc much less susceptible to rust.
Magnus 125grn with a 100- 75grn woody weight.
Ramcat 100 grain.....again
Saw YouTube on Exodus shooting into 55gal metal drums and none broke. Is that a good test?
If you’re hunting metal drums, you’re good to go. ;-)
I prefer Spitfires; used a slick trick last year. It was OK but will probably use the Spitfires again.
Probably ACE standards 145 grain
Qad exodus, best ive used
Iron Will blades are A2 tool steel, not stainless steel. A2 has less chromium than stainless steels. The benefit is that it has far superior mechanical properties when both high hardness (edge sharpness & edge retention) and high impact strength are needed. We did extensive corrosion testing to industry standards in a certified laboratory. A2 performed similar to 420SS (the lower cost steel over 90% of broadhead blades use) in the number of days before damaging corrosion (pitting) occurred, but surface spots do show up sooner. After five days in a wet quiver, I've found these spots to be just at the surface and can be easily polished out with no damage to the base metal and no effect to the edge sharpness. We put a light coat of food grade (oderless) mineral oil on the blades before shipping. This can be re-applied with use to prevent any rust spots. JC, I don't see any email or voicemail correspondence with you. Did you talk to someone in customer service or tech support? We generally don't replace broadheads if they can easily be touched up, so this is probably what they recommended. "Iron Will blades won't hold an edge just sitting in the quiver" This is not possible from an engineering stand point. A2 Steel at 60 HRC has the best edge retention of any broadhead blade made to my knowledge. I agree that we should do a better job of educating people on blade care. We are about to come out with a blade care kit including a diemaker stone to polish out scratches, small nicks, or rust spots and a blade oil pen to easily recoat the blades. I have broadheads in my quiver that are several years old and have taken multiple animals. As with many fine tools, these broadheads can last you a very long time with a little care. JC, send me a PM if interested and I'll get you a blade care kit.
Danbow, I really like D2 for a knife blade, but I think the impact strength is too low for broadhead blades and they would likely break on heavy bone impact. See attached chart.
Rexpid Nuri 100 gr. ! Slice and dice!
Go back and forth between Viper Tricks and QAD Exodus. Currently on Exodus.
Bill thats why i would lower the rockwell it would help another steel that would be intesting is DC53. Not nocking A2 used it alot when started the T@D trade back in 72. I agree blades shouldnt be rusting just staining.
I have had good luck with Slick Trick 100 Standards.