Blazers vs Heat vanes
Contributors to this thread:Equipment
From: Bou'bound
24-Jun-18
Good info. Any side by side photos
From: PAbowhunter1064
24-Jun-18
Good info, JTV. I agree, that Heat vanes aren't meant to steer large fixed blades. I've found that they work better, have less contact, and less bristle wear going through whisker biscuits....and I think they are quieter too. I will say, they do steer Rages right into cages quite well. Thanks for the write up.
From: wyobullshooter
24-Jun-18
Been using Blazers since they came out. Never had a reason to look elsewhere.
From: Ambush
24-Jun-18
The vane I use now is also .41" tall but a bit shorter than the Heat. I went with four vanes to make up for the lower profile. No problem steering the Slick Tricks. I was concerned that three vanes wouldn't do it and looks like your experiment verifies that.
From: wildwilderness
24-Jun-18
I have had the same results. Blazer do work well with fixed BHs. With the heat on my injexions I have broken nocks grouping at 50 yards with field points but can’t get fixed broadheads to fly well. Good Mechs work fine so this is my long range windy set up.
From: joehunter8301
25-Jun-18
I’m shooting 4 blazers. Only vane I think is comparable is the AAE max hunter. I was having a few issues with 3 blazers steering fixed heads. Switched to 4 and tightened em right up. I’ve played with the heats a little. They are too stiff for my liking and not big enough. It comes down to surface area. The more vane surface the better steering. Not necessarily the shape of the fletch. Of course things like clearance come into play etc but with all the comparing I’ve done and analyzed I still say the 4 fletch blazer is the best for fixed head accuracy assuming all else is equal.
From: ki-ke
25-Jun-18
I love Blazers but believe I am done with them. I've twice over the years had problems with adhesion. Def not a prep or install issue, but an issue with the activation component on the vanes where I had great adhesion to the shaft, but the bond failed on the vane. Not cool when you're at 10K in Colorado or negotiating an alder thicket in Alaska.
I've got about 7 million Blazers in yellow and white...........
Will look at the Heat vanes. Any other recommendations for dependable Blazer alternates?
From: Russell
25-Jun-18
You might consider Flex-Fletch Silent Knight 200 or 300's.
To reduce wind drift, I'm shooting small diameter arrows with four vanes.
From: ELKMAN
25-Jun-18
Agreed ^^^ ___ The flex fletch SK-300s are the best we've tested
From: smarba
25-Jun-18
What jig are you using for the helical JTV?
From: Frank Sanders
25-Jun-18
Holy helical.... Good info, thx. I've been using Blazers for years, they've done well but are loud. Just got some Flex Fletch 200, so I'll see what they do
From: fred hill
25-Jun-18
I did the same test last month with 4 fletch Blazers vs. 4 fletch Heat. Same conclusion. Heat's couldn't handle a Simmons 4 blade Landshark, 160gr. Rocky Mnt 4 blade Supreme 1.5"x1.5", or Zwickey Delta 4 blade. They almost missed my small broadhead box target at 20 yards. This is an extreme test though, they are fine with mechanicals and 3 blade fixed heads.
From: IdyllwildArcher
25-Jun-18
The helical is great on those, but that's a loud arrow.
From: caribou77
25-Jun-18
Another alternative is the flex fletch FLP 300. I was having trouble with blazers clearance issues on my last bow (and adhesion issues) found the flp and never looked back. 4 300s have no trouble with slick tricks. I started using 4 400s cause I like how the look.
From: joehunter8301
26-Jun-18
Curious if you rotate nocks when tuning...?
From: cvan1971man
29-Mar-22
Or... it could be that your bow is not tuned!
From: 12yards
29-Mar-22
I like Blazers as well. I was having adhesion issues with them when I first started using them. But since I started sanding the base of the vane and using a wrap, I don't have a problem. Make sure glue is fresh also. Still like a 4" feather but have stuck with Blazers now for several years.
From: Cheesehead Mike
29-Mar-22
Cheesehead Mike's Link
I was having adhesion issues with Blazers in the past too but since I've switched to Zing Kling with the primer and glue the issue is 100% cured. It's amazing how firmly they are attached now.
From: boly
03-Apr-22
I have an interesting issue. I used blazers with a Bitz right helical and Magnus Snuffer SS and had excellent results. I switched to Heat vanes at urging from my son and experienced good results until my new RX7. I shoot 28.5" draw, 65 lbs. 300 spine arrows. Field tip accuracy is great but i always test my broadheads prior to hunts and shooting them getting ready for the turkey hunt has me FRUSTRATED! The broadhead tipped arrow hits about 2.5" low not matter what I do with the rest. I desperation I tried my 340's with Blazers and almost got the results I want. I fletche an arrow with Blazers usin my Arizona True helical and the Bitz with right helical and less offset. The best accuracy I have is with the slight offset helical off the Bitz and Blazers, almost perfect. Any thought's/ideas? I'm still confused. Thanks
From: boly
10-Apr-22
bump
From: Shawn
11-Apr-22
If you cannot get big broadheads to fly well with either of those vanes than it is not the vanes. You have to have a tuned bow and if you cannot shoot a perfect hole through paper at 10-12 ft than you need to tune your bow or have it tuned. Shawn
From: boly
11-Apr-22
The bow was tuned as you described at my pro shop. The broadheads fly good but just hit low. Any other ideas?
From: Basil
12-Apr-22
Count me among the Blazer crew having adhesion issues. Do like the way the control fixed blade broadheads though. Shawn contact/timing issues on a drop away rest could be the culprit. Blazers are very stiff and unforgiving to contact. Time to bust out some red lipstick & check for contact.
From: Cheesehead Mike
12-Apr-22
Basil, try the Zing Kling that I posted above. It completely eliminated my adhesion issues.
boly, I don't even paper tune anymore and if you do it's just a starting point. If your broadheads are impacting low (assuming no fletching contact) it probably means that your arrow is slightly nock high as it leaves your bow and the broadhead blades continue to steer it in that direction whereas the field points have no "steerage". I suggest raising your rest or lowering your nock point on your string very slightly until your field point and broadhead groups come together. Then adjust your sight to bring the groups back into the bullseye. That's the method I use and my fixed blade broadheads and field points group together out to 100 yards plus.
From: boly
12-Apr-22
I that but I'm going to do it again very carefully I think. That has to be the problem. I also think I'm switching back to Blazers and fletch them with my Arizona mini with true helical. I love the way they look and I might be imagining this but they don't seem to hiss in flight.
From: Cheesehead Mike
13-Apr-22
I fletch my Blazers with quite a bit of helical. I've never noticed any sound unless I have a rip in one of them.
