How many guys do it? I've been reading a lot about it lately and to my understanding, it's basically making adjustments to your rest to get broadheads to fly like feild points.. that seems odd to me, because once you make adjustments to your rest, then your feild points won't fly like your broadheads, so your actually not in tune anymore..
Center and square your bow, then shoot through paper, yoke tune to achieve a bullet hole, then try the broadheads, they should on and not require any more tuning. If you don't have static yokes sell bow and buy one that has!
When your broadheads fly just like your field points then you have tuned your bow. If your field points fly like your field points or, if your broadheads fly like your broadheads then you haven't accomplished anything.
I do like carcus and can't remember the last time I had to make any adjustments to have FP/BH same POI. If you do have to adjust, move the rest to chase your field point with your broadhead. They will eventually come together, then adjust your sight.
I never had an issue. I never had a bh that did not fly, like my field points. I have shot Magnus, and slicks, and muzzy, and ram cats etc, did not seem to matter. I shoot a Hoyt Carbon Spyder, take it to archery shop, the guy is a tune nut........ Once he is done with it, I just shoot it..........................
He even is particular, on the distance of how wide my loop is for my release. anyway, I never saw this to be a problem. when I shot a Matthews, it was the same not an issue.
I shoot a QAD drop away rest and a 3 pin sight, from Fuse. as far as arrows, I hunt with fmjs', but I can buy carbon express from wal mart, for 3 d and have no issues
I shot a Mathews MQ1 for 18 years and was always able to very easily tune the bow by making slight adjustments to the rest and get field points and fixed blade broadheads to impact the same from 10 to 70 yards. Yes, the broadheads always moved more than the field points until the groups came together and then I just adjusted the sight to bring the group into the bulls eye. It was very easy and I never failed. I also tuned a few other bows this way.
I believed that the broadheads and field points would always come together eventually and it is always possible to get broadheads and field points to group together if you just had some patience and did some simple tuning. I vehemently disagreed with those who said that it is impossible to get fixed blade broadheads and field points to group together.
That is until 2016 when I bought a Mathews Halon. I have worked with that bow for 2 years and have never been able to get fixed blade broadheads (Slick Trick standard and magnum, Wasp Boss, Shuttle T) and field points to group together. I can keep chasing my field points until I run out of adjustment and they never come together. I do most of my own tuning but the shop where I bought it switched the top-hats on the bottom cam in an attempt to help but I got the feeling that I was a rarity trying to get my field points and broadheads to group together. It seems that most people just screw on a Rage and go hunting.
I was finally able to get my broadheads and field points to group within about 2" of each other at 40 yards and I gave up and adjusted my sight to bring my broadheads into the bullseye.
Don't get me wrong, the Halon shoots amazing and I practice regularly out to 120 yards but tuning broadheads with it makes me want to pull my hair out...
I plan to mess with it a little more this summer and maybe switch the top-hats on the upper cam since based on research I've done most guys who have switched top-hats switched the uppers.
How many do it ?? .... 'prolly not enough ... Unless I have same POI with my FP's and BH's I wont hunt with the bow ... when I'm done I have same POI at 50 yds ... I shoot both fixed(main head Vipertrick) and Mechs/ Steelheads(XL's)... however I also have Mags and Standards ready should I want to use them.. all have same POI ...
After doing a basic set up/ centershot, loop height/etc. , I start with a French tune indoors/9 yds to get things going, then go outside on a windless day and walk back tune ... I can then fine tune centershot and horizontal adjustments ...some shoot bare shafts, I dont... some paper tuen, that is just a starting point ... once I get my walkback tune done, then I shoot BH's.. most of the times, they are right there with FP's, if not, then I'll BH tune making even more adjustments in very very small increments to the rest ...there are times when it may be needed to shim cams or with yoke, to twist a yoke ... when all is done, FP's/BH's will be same POI ... then and only then are you ready to hunt ....
Some of you are to young to remember but we use to do the same thing with cable guard that you could adjust the tension on as you all are doing with yolks. It was very effective. Square the bow shoot it though paper and if you did not get a bullet hole adjustment tension on cable guard till you did . Some of my best shooting bows were tuned this way . I suspect if the bows without yolks would go back to to this cable guard system it would be easier to tune them instead of having to shim them .
But if you have $1000 into your setup and you've done all of that and can't get it closer than 2" at 40 yards you might give up and adjust your sight. I didn't like doing it but I didn't have much choice and the bull and buck I shot with it didn't seem to care...
“I didn't like doing it but I didn't have much choice and the bull and buck I shot with it didn't seem to care...”
From my experience with well flying broadheads that the arrow is fly truer so after Broadhead tune target points just group better. I just broadhead tunes a young guys bow and called and told me that amazingly his target were grouping much tighter at distance.
Can't believe how many guys don't bare shaft tune and adjust tip weight to get arrows spined correctly. Having to move sights or arrow rests is just putting a bandaid on the issue. Why not take the time and tune? Why move the sight and rest from centerline? Guess it's just easier...
If your bow is tuned and you use a quality broadhead they should fly the same. If there is a slight difference but your broadheads are grouping where you are shaving vanes and nocks.....adjust your rest to center your broadheads. Are you hunting paper or wild game?
"once you make adjustments to your rest, then your feild points won't fly like your broadheads, so your actually not in tune anymore.. "
Nope. Your FP were never in "tune" in the first place. FP lie, they don't really much care how they come off the bow as with no "wings" up front "steering" them the fletching quickly takes over and straighten things out. Broadheads tell the truth how they are coming off the bow. The FP group is simply the control group, as without them you really can't tell exactly how the FBBH are coming off the bow. Coming off in a manor that comes closest to the "perfect" flight of the FP.
If a person is thinking they were "tuned" before (paper, bare shaft, whatever...) and think somehow they "de-tuned" it..... then go back and shoot that paper again..... you will still have that "perfect" tune. I have NEVER seen a rig start ripping paper after broadhead tuning when it was bullet holes prior to that. Never.
"Can't believe how many guys don't bare shaft tune and adjust tip weight to get arrows spined correctly. Having to move sights or arrow rests is just putting a bandaid on the issue. Why not take the time and tune? Why move the sight and rest from centerline? Guess it's just easier... "
I never could understand why people tune with bare shafts. I am most concerned with how my arrows perform with fletching. There is more than one way to achieve a tune and no method is better than the other if you reach the same end point.
“Nope. Your FP were never in "tune" in the first place. FP lie, they don't really much care how they come off the bow as with no "wings" up front "steering" them the fletching quickly takes over and straighten things out. Broadheads tell the truth how they are coming off the bow”
There are definitely different ways to end up "tuned". I only use paper if it's twenty below zero and I've done some major changes, like a string change. Otherwise it's first field points shot with fletched and bare shafts. Then broad heads and bare shafts. Then fletched with broad heads and field points so I can be sighted in for practice and hunting.
Has anyone ever straight fletched a few of their shafts then tuned with a two blade? First with the blades horizontal for up/down then vertical for left/right?
I believe the OP has "sighted in" and "tuned" grouped together as one achievement.
COHOYTHUNTER: Please take the time to learn how to tune your bow so it shoots both field points and fixed broadheads to the same point of impact. It is indeed possible...but even if you can only get the two groups within a couple inches, that's better than what "most" bowhunters currently shoot. You will achieve better arrow flight, which translates into a more efficient setup...offering much better penetration than what you are used to.
I start with getting my bare shaft and my fletched to hit like this at 20 yards. Then I start broadhead tuning. Rarely do I need to make any adjustments. Once everything is good i sight it in and set my tape and go kill some critters!
French fallowed by walk back then adjusted arrow rest to bring BH's and FP's together This is at 40 yards on a windless day when I was having an exceptional day of shooting well. This is with my all time favorite broadhead a Wasp Boss SST 100 grain 3 blade. Bow is a 2014 Darton DS 3714