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Installed a new string and cable on my Mathews z7, bare shaft tuned at 20 feet until I got perfect holes. Fletched shafts with blazers and paper tuned again making slight adjustment for low right tear. Went to site in and at 25 yds noticed slight pinwheeling in arrow flight, at 35 it was worse and at 50 it was really noticeable. What should I do next.
Check for fletching contact.
Stalk to within 7 yards And you’re good to go.
Shoot your bare shafts with fletched arrows at 20 and tune to bring them together. If you have a block style target, you can also tune to make sure they are both entering the target parallel.
Scrap the Mathews and buy a Bowtech! :)
Hoyt Defiant 34 is the cure gents ...
Has to be fletching contact if bareshafts we're good. What rest?
I have found visual "tuning" to be very poor. Your eyes follow the brighter cock fletch spinning downrange and the optical illusion is of "pinwheeling". FWIW.... you will not get greater "pinwheeling" or planing downrange unless maybe a broadhead is misaligned. The farther downrange the greater stabilizing effect the fletching has. It is the launch that is most critical to flight, The fletching cures that in short order. With FBBH any damage has already been done before the fletching stabilizes things. More/bigger fletching with more helical will stabilize FASTER. Thus better control with FBBH.
Shoot a couple of broadheads for group effect. Then shoot some FP and compare the groups. Adjust rest to chase the FP if they do not group together. Once they do group together you are as tuned as tuned can be. In broadhead tuning you can trust.....
What your eyes see in flight..... good luck.
If it "seems" to get worse the farther you shoot, then it's just an optical illusion. Unless you fletched the arrows wrong.
Agreed that it is an optical illusion. Do you shoot with both eyes open, one eye closed or 1 eye closed and then you open at the shot. Both eyes open and opening 1 at the shot can both lead to this illusion as your non dominant eye pics up the arrow in flight. Took me a long time to learn it's my eyes and not the tune.
Fletch a shaft with all Three of the same color vanes ...use a color you can see well...white or pink ect and see what it looks like.
I had same thing and think it was vane contact. Refletched with feathers and issue improved greatly. Could’ve also been an optical illusion but mostly fletching contact
Have had similar problem on my Bowtech. Bought new strings/cables from Bowtech through an authorized dealer pro shop to keep my warranty (a nuisance of its own). Shop installed the strings/cables and was installing a new limb driven Trophy Taker which it turned out couldn't adjust far enough out for center shot (notoriusly wide riser on older bowtechs). Since I was on my way out scouting/camping and it was closing time on Fri, (They would get to it til Mon and I lived 3hrs out of town) I just took the bow to fix it myself and switched the rest back to my older one. Ended up spending the entire wkd figuring out the mess the pro shop left. A to A was longer than spec, had to twist the string to get back to appropriate distance. (Fortunately I had measured everything with old string and had an old bow magazine article with detailed measurements for my bow too.) Cams were not synched (and this was before they added timing marks) so I had to also play with both cables and twist/untwist repeatedly (plus a few shots in between to "settle" the cables). Note it took me forever to figure out these issues and to adjust everything to get as close to original settings and cam sync as possible. (Still not as good as initial factory precision of old string, went from rattling arrows at 40yds and 3" group at 80yds to 4" groups at 40yds and 6-8" ones at 80 $100 one not the current cheaper one I used then) or other fast dropaway might have solved the issue. The limb driver type definitely does; I can index vanes in any position with out fletching contact on the rest. Summary: like other said it could be fletching contact and I would add that you need to recheck all your cables/string settings and timing too (even before the fletching contact checks).
New strings take some work, best to get them close then shoot a 100 arrows or so then twist her back into factory spec
Its been my experience that being bare shaft tuned at 7 yards is no where near adequate. That is merely a starting point. After getting your shafts to line up at 7 yards, then back up to 20 yards and get them lined up. Then back up to 30 yards and fine tune it some more. Then back up to 40 yards, etc... The farther back you go, the finer your adjustments will become.
Tuned at 7 yards may mean you are within 1/16" of perfect. While being tuned at 40 yards may mean you have narrowed it down to being within 1/128" of perfect. Honestly, its hard to make the adjustments at over 40 yards. The arrow rest movement is so fine that just loosening the set screw and re-tightening it may be all the adjustment you need.....
My experience has been, if I bare shaft tune out to 30 or 40 yards, then my broadheads will hit with my field points with no further adjustments needed.
I rarely do any bare shaft tuning, walk back tuning will get you what you need and it's much simpler
"Its been my experience that being bare shaft tuned at 7 yards is no where near adequate."
"My experience has been, if I bare shaft tune out to 30 or 40 yards, then my broadheads will hit with my field points with no further adjustments needed. "