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Drifting right as I go back

As I move farther away from the target, my arrows generally impact more to the right, sometimes as much as 5 inches right at 60, but sometimes closer to the bullseye. I am a left handed firer shooting a 70# Mathews Drenalin LD with a 27.5 inch draw and 28.5 inch VAP Elite .166 arrows with the 95 grain steel insert and 100 grain field points. I have a bullet hole with a fletched arrow at about 5 feet. I know almost nothing about bow tuning (yoke manipulation, etc). What should I do?

Are you paying attention to your level on your sight? If you are canting your bow you will notice the point of impact will change more the further from the target you are.

Check to make sure your pins are plumb with your string. You may have to adjust your sights axis. Like Mathewsman said, you’re canting your bow.

Your center shot is off. Move your rest ever so slightly to the left.

YouTube 'Walk Back Tuning' and it will help you. Good starting point.

60 yards is a long ways, if your bow is tuned it should hit center at 60 same as 20 IF your bow is level, no hand torque ect. The fact that its not consistent leads me to believe its the shooter or possibly the arrow.

As previously stated, canting your bow would be first check. Second would be checking my peep alignment with my sight housing. Walk back tune would be next .

I'm a lefty and if my bubble isn't level I also impact to the right. Also, like suggested do the walk back tuning.

P. S. Things do not magically occur at 60 yards but instead they show up at a given distance.

Hawkeye has it right. Need to walk back tune. Centershot being off just a tiny bit gets magnified at longer distance.

It could be any of the things these guys listed. OR as simple as moving your sight ever so slightly. A tiny adjustment will move your 60 and you won't even notice it at 20.

"Hawkeye has it right. Need to walk back tune. Centershot being off just a tiny bit gets magnified at longer distance." If by chance canting was his problem then he would be really screwed by changing sights and rest tension.

If canting is the issue he first needs to make sure his second axis is adjusted properly. I'd try walk back tune first as easier than tweaking your form at this point. If Wal back is ok THEN you can check 2 nd axis and ensure your level with each shot. I bet it's your rest.

You either have some tail left, or your natural cant is getting you after you level your bow, or it's the fact that your still shooting a slim limb bow. There is A LOT of lean in that system...

He says sometimes as much as 5" and sometimes close to the bull....... probably a form issue that walk back tuning wont solve. He absolutely should walk back tune and it may shrink things up considerably but I would be willing to bet it's form.

Canting and sight picture are easy checks that you can correct without turning a screw.

I agree with grubby. If he was consistently getting the same spacing then I would suspect tuning problem. Lot of people have form problems as they move further and further away from target. It's a mind thing...I've had to deal with it myself. I get over it by starting my shooting sessions shooting longer distances and then shooting shorter distances at the end of my session (to make me feel better..haha)...JMO

What spine arrow are you shooting? Is this with just field tips or field tips and fixed blade broadheads? Have you shot fixed blade broadheads and compared their point of impact to field tips? Lots of good advice so far, if you can try and shoot some broadheads and field tips and if they are impacting the same point then it's probably a sight adjustment or canting the bow or form as mentioned. If they aren't impacting the same point then you have a tuning issue. For me, shooting broadheads was the benchmark to point me where I needed to go especially if I had good paper tears etc.

He said it isn't always to the right, just sometimes. That means he is likely doing something different such as torquing the riser, collapsing, etc. If it were something with his bow it should be consistent.

Did some searching on the internet regarding walk back tuning and french tuning. Will give it a go tomorrow. Thank you for all the advice - really appreciate the help.

Shot today at 3 yards on a bullseye target. Incidentally, my 40 yard pin turned out to be my 3 yard pin and the shot was dead center of the bull. Moving back to 50 yards, I shot a 3 arrow group that was just a few inches right of center, about the size of a tennis ball. Is this little distance off worthy of a rest adjustment? Also, today's shooting was done on a bullseye target and not my usual 3-D deer target, so I had a definitive point of aim/reference and as such, I am certain that my right drift is about 2-3 inches at 50 yards.

RD, give your rest just a fuzz of left adjustment and shoot another group. You’re on the right track.

You want those arrows falling in the middle of your vertical line.

LISTEN to those that are advising yo to check simple things before you start torquing on screws attached to you rest.

If you can repeat the group to the right, I would do as JW suggests and bump rest left 1/32". Just a touch. Worse case you move it back. I'd definitely try it if was my setup. If not consistent then I'd call it good and work on form etc.

Pick one of the following: 1). adjust sight to get things dead on at 50 yds. At 20 you might be left 1" max. (or split the difference and live with an inch right at 50 yds and 1/2" left at 20). (simple but not perfect answer) 2). Adjust sight vertical axis if possible or shim sight to correct for the a potential sight lean issue. (might square things away easily) 3). Tune as noted above. (pick your method and go to work, but know where you started so you can go back if necessary.) 4). I've shot a Mathews Drenalin and it has a "tricky" wooden grip that required a bit different hand placement for me. Once I mastered it, I really liked the bow and shot a lot of game with mine. My hand placement on the grip was further out on the thumb than my other bows. Takes a bit of time for this to be automatic, but worth trying if this is your hunting bow for the year.

Good luck!!

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