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Why Can't I get Two Blade heads to Fly?

For the life of me, though I want to, I cannot get two blade broadheads to not wobble. I have shot vipertricks, magnus stingers, magnus buzzcuts, and others, but the arrows are not flying right. My problem is that I have this bow paper tuned, and it's shooting darts with my field points, and all the three blade heads I'm shooting (Exodus, Wac Em XL's) are flying almost field point perfect. I guess I'll just shoot the three blades, but certainly like the COC two blades better. No big deal.

2 blades are finicky, sell them and buy more Exodus

If you're shooting them out of a compound, the high velocity can make them a real challenge and probably not worth the trouble. Even with my trad gear it can take some work and rotating the head, even on carbon shafts.

Why do you think you need 2 blade heads?

What he said. Both the fixed are superior to all the 2 blades you're shooting if not all 2 blades in general.

otcWill - What do you mean "superior to all the 2 blades"?

I had a similar issue previously.. after I squared the shafts and spin tested and lined up blades to vanes, it fixed it.. lining up blades to vanes is probably not necessary, but i am OCD about that.. but squaring the shafts is necessary, I found that about 90% of shafts weren't 100% square after being cut. I square tip end and nock end

From my experience, if a stinger doesn't fly right something is up. I would say some more tuning is in need but if 3 blades are flying well that shouldn't be the case.

There is a possibility you got some fakes. You might want to contact Mike Sohm at Magnus.

Stingers are not finiky in the least from my experience. I decided to shoot stingers for antelope this year. Last night I screwed one on for the first time in 2 years. Put the 18-1 at 40 yards and hit 1” high.

I would guess it’s hand torque. Last month after shooting regularly out to 100 yards with fixed heads my heads developed a noticeable wobble. No reason at all. It was hand torque. Never had an issue with it before. After I corrected it I was right back where I wanted to be.

Make sure the blades are spinning true...

That set screw doesn’t always align the blades perfectly

Stingers fly like bullets out of my rig as well, but I'm shooting heavy arrows.

I usually tune them so the blade is vertical with the string, I've heard differing opinions on that.

When you spin-test them, how do they look?

Exodus heads for one I've heard Wac ems are similar are quite a forgiving three blade. Try shooting a Muzzy 100 or a Thunderhead and see if it's still a 3 blade issue. That's one of the weirdest issues I've heard of. Hard to imagine a Wac em flying perfect and a Vipertrick corkscrewing on the same arrow.

Bare shaft tune the arrow and you'll get arrows to shoot two bladed heads if they match the tip weight of the bare shaft. Just tune the arrow to the bow. Shoot a stick bow for a while and you'll learn to bare shaft tune.

I have some 150 grain Magnus Stinger 4 blades that don't spin perfect but they still fly good. Go figure. I noticed exactly what Pyrannah said, the main blade isn't held perfectly in place by the set screw. My 100 grainers spin great.

Never had a problem with Magnus Stingers

If the bow is tuned, the arrow is spined properly, and your shooting form is half way decent, then there is no reason that they won't fly well.

DEC.... He's that guy...

Never had an issue. In fact, I find single blade heads the easiest to tune.

Stingers and Buzzcuts fly like darts for me.

Lol at the guys saying it's because of the 2 blade heads. It's either tuning issue or an insert/outsert arrow alignment issue. Had one bloke whinge on FB that he hated single bevels as he couldn't get my heads to shoot. I rang him and explained a few things and that i personally spin check every head before they go out. Rang him back a few days later and he had tuned his bow properly, then they shot great.

Strickland Helix broadheads hit right with my fieldpoints, no additional tuning was needed.

No problems with the two blades here either, I do square my shafts and try to keep my bow tuned.

You bow isn't tuned or the shaft head alignment isn't on. Zwickeys fly well, my hunting buddy uses him on his high speed modern Mathhews bow. FOC

You bow isn't tuned or the shaft head alignment isn't on. Zwickeys fly well, my hunting buddy uses him on his high speed modern Mathhews bow. FOC

They will shoot straight. i shoot a German kinetics two blade that is 2" wide. if that will shoot - anything will will shoot.....

as others said, your tuning is just a little off.

Guess I'll stick with what fly's good.

Are your two blades solid or vented?

I am assuming you field points and your 2 blade heads weight the same. Is there any wobble in you arrows after you put the broadheads on the shaft? Best way I have found is to match the shaft and the broadhead without vanes or fletches on. I shoot aluminum and use hot melt but you can do the same thing with carbon and epoxy. with no vanes or feathers on the shaft put your insert in with the glue on then screw your broadhead on spin it on your finger, if you feel any wobble keep twisting the insert using the broadhead and rechecking for wobble. When you feel none, set the shaft with the broadhead attached off to the side and let the epoxy dry if shooting carbon. Keep doing that till you have how ever many you want made up. Then number the shaft to the broadhead that are attached, broadhead one, shaft one, broadhead two, shaft two, and so on. That way you always put the broadhead back on the same shaft you got it to align with if you take them off. As an example if you put broadhead three on shaft one you may get wobble, where 3 on 3 spins true. By doing this without vanes or feather on the shaft you will be able to feel ANY wobble that needs corrected. Because with vanes or feathers on the shaft they can hide some wobble when doing this. Then when you fletch the arrow they will shoot true. Just something to think about. DANNY

thanks for all he info fromall, linecutter that's a great plan.

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