Mathews Inc.
Question about Beman carbons
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
DMTJAGER 19-Aug-18
WV Mountaineer 19-Aug-18
DMTJAGER 19-Aug-18
Tonybear61 19-Aug-18
bad karma 20-Aug-18
Lee 20-Aug-18
12yards 20-Aug-18
Russ Koon 20-Aug-18
camoguy 20-Aug-18
Buck Watcher 20-Aug-18
GLP 20-Aug-18
WapitiBob 20-Aug-18
DMTJAGER 22-Aug-18
From: DMTJAGER
19-Aug-18
I have multiple shoulder issues that over the last 4-5 years have necessitated that I reduce my bows max draw weight first from 68lbs down to 63lbs and now down to 52lbs. I can still pull 63lbs reasonably easy, but I can not remain at full draw anywhere as long as is often required when a buck decides to make things interesting. Like most bow hunters I over research most archery purchases, and new arrows are no exception. Based on what I have read, much to my surprise, how consistent the spine is from arrow to arrow in any given set of dozen I buy is the most important factor in how consistently accurate the arrows will be ESPECIALLY since I shoot fixed blade broad heads. I fletch my own arrows and I much prefer Beman Bow Hunter carbon shafts. I was wondering if there is any solid data and not just opinions out there as to the arrow to arrow spine consistency of Beman carbon arrows, or any other made in USA carbon arrows? Lastly it's worth mentioning #1- that my archery is completely centered around hunting and my accuracy goals are focused on keeping all of my broad heads in a deer's heart and or lungs out to 40 and if I'm as good as I was last season, hopefully 50 yards and not cutting X's. I'm a good archery shot, but shots beyond 40 and MAYBE with a lot of practice, once again 50 yards are not within my present skills as an archer. No#2 my budget for a dozen arrows is $100 maximum. Thanks for the information, Art.

19-Aug-18
No real data other then they shoot where I aim with broad heads or field points. From 20 to 80 yards. That's the real science I go by. I buy them factory fletched, cut them to 27 inches, screw on my broad heads and field points and go shoot them. I'd suggest you do the same since last year with Bemans seemed to do you well.

From: DMTJAGER
19-Aug-18
WVM, Thanks for the thoughtful common sense reply. I was thinking the same thing and once again I feel I am "over thinking it". Although I didn't spend "hours" trying to find hard test data concerning carbon arrow spine consistency, my searching turned up not enough data to be of any real help. Unless someone posts information to the contrary, I will order the same arrows as I have in the past, save for them being 400 spine, VS 340 spine as I've gone down 10lbs in draw weight and no longer need that stiff an arrow. I'm down to my last 8 arrows and my rule is having at least a dozen and half on hand prior to bow season.

From: Tonybear61
19-Aug-18
Beman ICS 400s worked great in my old Bear Code compound set at 53#. My son is shooting it now, still work fine.

From: bad karma
20-Aug-18
I don't know of any bad carbons.

From: Lee
20-Aug-18
I just did a bunch of research on spine as I wasn’t getting consistent Broadhead flight from arrow to arrow - I saw some as straight as .001 and others up to .006. Of course you’ll pay for the extra straightness! Look up the spine question thread and I have a chart in there with straightness and prices on the arrows I’m looking at - it’s under equipment and tuning and pretty recent. Bemans are a pretty good shaft, though.

Lee

From: 12yards
20-Aug-18
FYI, Cabelas Stalker Extreme arrows are Beman ICS Hunters, .003 straight and they have served me very well. Very reasonably priced too. I have similar shoulder issues as you. Can draw over 60 pounds, but have my bows turned down to low 50's now. I still shoot my same 340 shafts but have 125 and 150 grain heads. They shoot very good. I think the heavier weight arrow is good when going down in draw weight.

From: Russ Koon
20-Aug-18
My results are the same as 12 yards' above.

Have shot ICS Bemans for many years now, mostly 340's, and some 400's for a while when first reducing poundage. Went back to 340's with 125 gr heads, as I could find no advantage with the 400's except about 2" less drop at 40 yards, and I preferred the stiffer and heavier 340's for their durability and slightly better momentum downrange.

The spine difference in carbons shot with modern compounds is way overthought! Back in the day, shooting aluminums and recurves with tabs and gloves, spine matching was a major concern. The last few decades, with center-shot plus risers and carbons with less flexing and quicker recovery from any initial flex at the shot, it's pretty insignificant except to be sure you have enough spine to safely shoot the arrow. I've shot my 340's out of my bows through all stages of a recovery from a stroke from 29# up to 63# with all the same gear (rest, tabs, etc.) and had to adjust only very slightly for lateral change of impact, throughout the range of supposed spine requirements. Had to make some vertical sight pin adjustments of course, but it was sort of surprising how small they needed to be under 40 yards.

I haven't tried them all, but have experimented with several other brands just out of curiosity when I was chasing 3D scores, and found no better groups than with my 340 Beman Hunters.

I tend to buy the bare shafts and fletch my own, mostly because I'm a recent convert to releases and the factory fletching jobs are now usually too far back on the shafts for a finger shooter, and I like the ability to replace a fletch that gets chewed up without trying to locate a competent shop.

I'm also working my way back up to my previous shooting weight, or as close as some aging parts will allow. Recently had a practice session where I took a couple more shots than I should have and had a temporary muscle strain. Took two turns out of each limb and resumed shooting in a couple days, and it sure felt good to draw with so little effort and lock in for a good long hold on target again! I'll go back to bumping up the draw again soon, but I think the smooth comfortable draw and hold is going to be the most important factor in adding more draw weight or just becoming more comfortable with where I am now. I was shooting a 48# recurve when I started bowhunting 56 years ago, and I doubt the deer have become much tougher since.

From: camoguy
20-Aug-18
Depends on how much you are willing to spend for how much finiteness you want.

You can get pre-fletched Beman ICS Bowhunter 400s all day long for $6-$7 each and they will work just fine. They have a stated spine of +/-.003.

I overspend "a bit" and use Carbon Express Maxima Red 350s which cost me about $14 a pop, but I know they have a spine tolerance of +/-.0025 and weight +/- 1 grain of each other. I shoot 72# with my bow and I know that I have groups of less than 1 inch at 25 yards. I had not had groups that were that consistently tight until I switched to Maxima Reds, so the extra expense is worth it to me.

From: Buck Watcher
20-Aug-18
If you are that concerned about consistency, save your money and get Axis Match Grade. They will be my next arrows. But, I bet I will still use ACC's.

From: GLP
20-Aug-18
Beman ICS arrows are a very good carbons. I used to use them but changed to victory vforce. Really a very similar arrow but I like the insert better. It is also made in USA. Can’t go wrong with either. Greg

From: WapitiBob
20-Aug-18
You can see the dynamic spine inconsistencies by bare shafting thru paper and turning the nock. Only you will know if you can see the difference when shooting at a target or game. The people I know with big cardboard checks and shooting all carbon use hi end Black Eagle or hi end carbon Express. I would not put a Beeman in that category but they are certainly good enough for hunting.

From: DMTJAGER
22-Aug-18
REALLY SUCKS Cabela's stopped selling their Stalker Extreme carbons in bare shaft configuration. You got .003" Straightness factor Beman carbons for $63 a dozen. I ordered 2 dozen of the hunter classic. My AZ EZ fletch, Locktight super control gel, and Flex-Fletch vanes eagerly await their arrival. Thanks to all for sharing their experience and for the advice. Forgot to add will take the tip and cut an equal amount of both ends to get my final 29" arrow length.

  • Sitka Gear