Magnus stinger sharpening angle?
Equipment
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Using my Lansky I can make either the 25 or 30 degree angle hair popping sharp. It seems 30 degree would be more durable???? Which angle is better?
If I could get the 30 degree angle sharp enough That's what I'd use.
Both EASILY shave hair. The 25 degree wants to slice into my finger if I drag it across with zero pressure. The 30 doesn’t feel quite as “sharp” with that test. Both were stropped to mirror finish.
I always wonder how quickly a Broadhead dulls...as soon as it cuts the hair? Cuts through the hide? When it hits a rib bone? I’d prefer the most durable blade angle I can get but I know they come closer to 20 degrees from the factory. Maybe there’s a reason?
The reason my guess is because it so easily cuts.
Most people do not understand the differences in how sharpening angles feel. Meaning a 30 degree angle may shave your arm but, it doesn't feel as sharp as a 20 or 25 degree angle that shaves hair just as easily. I also know that steel quality and finish treatment is more important in edge retention then angle. But, in mass produced heads like this, quality is a compromise with cost, use, etc... However, all things equal, the 30 degree angle is going to be stronger. Is that needed? No. But, neither are $500 backpacks, compound bows, or carbon arrows.
Our stinger and stinger buzzcut Broadheads have a 19 degree angle also if for some reason you mess up on sharpening just send the broadhead to us and we will replace with a new one. Thanks
Mike they don’t come as sharp as I can get them with a Lansky and strop. The heads I’m sharpening are new out of the package. So I guess my question is...would a 20/25/30 degree sharpening angle be the most durable? If they’ll shave hair at 30, is there an advantage in coming from the factory at 19?
The stingers I get out of the package are hair popping sharp. Generally have not needed to be honed until after going through an animal.
Isn't it funny how everyone has a different opinion on sharp?
The other interesting thing is to look at some of these sharpened edges in a microscope. For example, some diamond stones can actually chip the edge of some steels edge making it worse....but if only stropped one way-backward they are actually sharper. All dependent of the stone/diamond used and the steel...some of the super steels are tricky.
I go just a tad more angle on my Buzzcuts, with light pressure and fine stones....it does make them sharper.
A higher bevel might make sense on some heads....but IMO not on a the longer tapered design 2 blade heads. The Mechanical advantage of the tapered design puts less pressure on the bevel.
The short wide fixed heads would benefit from a 30 deg bevel....but of course they make all of those replaceable blade heads without that consideration.
Sometimes a jagged edge will feel sharper but I’ve never had a factory head be as sharp as a head that I’ve sharpened and stropped. Yes they come sharp from the factory, but not stupid sharp. I guess I could shoot a 20 degree angle into a target 10 times vs a 30 degree and see which one is sharper at the end to see if one holds an edge better. Sounds like a lot of work. Lol.
Even tho this guide is for knives, it can used for BHs also
Under 10 Degree Angles
The lowest angles are reserved for edges that are typically cutting softer materials. In this case, the edges are not subject to abuse so the lower angle can be maintained without damage or edge failure. The lowest angles that we typically see are on straight edge razors. These are sharpened to an angle which is roughly 7 to 8 degrees (although the back of the blade is used as a guide so knowing the angle isn’t important and it is not adjustable). A straight razor has a very delicate edge that is very easy to damage. In proper usage, a straight razor would never see the type of use that would damage the edge.
10 to 17 Degrees Angles
A sharpening angle of 10 to 17 degrees is still quite low for most knives. With a total angle of 20 to 34 degrees, this is still a very fine edge. This edge is typically too weak for any knife that might be used in any type of chopping motion. Also consider that harder steels are also more susceptible to impact damage because they are more brittle. If your knife is used for cutting soft items or slicing meats, this lower angle can hold up and provide a very smooth cutting action.
17 to 22 Degree Angles
A 17 to 20 degree angle covers most kitchen knives. Some knives (typically Japanese manufacturers) will sharpen their knives to roughly 17 degrees. Most western knives are roughly 20 degrees. It is our experience that kitchen knives sharpened to 15 to 20 degrees cut very well and are still durable. These angles are still not highly durable as a total angle under 40 degrees will not respond well to rougher treatment in harder materials.
22 to 30 Degree Angles
In this range, the knife edges are considerably more durable. A pocket knife or a hunting knife will inevitably see abuse not seen by knives meant primarily for slicing or chopping softer materials. While the edge may not ultimately cut as well (but you may not notice a difference) it will be considerably more durable.
Over 30 Degrees Angles
Any edged tool or knife that is sharpened past 30 degrees will be very durable. Its cutting ability will be noticeably reduced. This durability has an advantage because more force can be used to make the cut. While the majority of knives won’t benefit from this sharpening angle, an edged tool like a machete, cleaver or axe must be durable as the typical cutting action of these tools would damage other edges.
Brad you and I are on the same page I think. I read the same thing which got my thinking in that direction. The problem is it’s hard to get a razor edge with higher angles usually. Like most things, maybe I’m overthinking this...
the steeper the angle the sharper it will be for slicing. However it thins the edge more. I run them thru a rada wheelie they do great and will get them shaving sharp
I stick with the 20 degree angle on mine. I try to mimick whatever is in the design whether it be a broadhead, knife and even a lawnmower blade. IMO, I think people tend to overthink broad head sharpening. It becomes so much of an obsession to get "scary shaving sharp" that for some they are never satisfied. Yes, sharp is important, but I think of those old timers sitting down on a rock in the field with their files.
Yeah, in real life, a BH design works in concert with the blade bevel.
So using a Magnus stinger and Slick Trick mag as an example, the blade angle of the stinger puts less pressure on the blade bevel- mechanical advantage of the longer design acts like a lever.
The slick trick mag with its wider shallower design puts more of the arrows pressure on the actual bevel compressing and contacting the outer hide putting that edge in direct contact with hair and hide.
When shooting thin skinned whitetails....none of this^ matters much. But when you get into heavier animals with thick hides...or animals like hogs and elk that wallow....I've seen it affect the sharpness of those very thin replaceable blade bevels.
I have been building and selling Broadhead sharpeners for close to 30 years and most have been built at 18 degrees but some as high as 23 degrees for certain heads that are narrower to keep from digging into the ferral. These are double file sharpeners and the only thing we have found that will improve the edge we get off the files is to back strop them on leather with jewler's polishing compound. Have never had any issue with edge retention at these angles.
Think of your lawnmower blade....which do you want a thin super sharp fragile edge or a sharp more durable edge. A animal doesn`t care if you can shave cat hair with it....a broadhead is a "tool" not a personal grooming aid.
Lawn mower blade vs BH, interesting comparison. I use 20 degrees on my Lansky for sharpening all my BHs and it’s worked great for many years.
So what are the advatages between a sharp wide bevel knife and a less sharp knife of a narrower bevel (17-22 degrees), if on the wide bevel you are having to use more pressure to get it to cut even when sharp? A narrower angle (17-22 degrees) cuts more easily and yes can seem to become less sharp quicker, but is easier to use a steel on to touch up for edge roll, which causes what most call a "dull" knife and still be sharper than a wide bevel. Something that is truly dull has a rounded edge. On a deer their hair has been, from what I have dealt with, is what can really dull and edge. An knife edge running parallel with the hair will not dull as fast as the same edge cutting perpendicular to the hair (usually there is dirt and crud in the hair that removes an edge, plus it being hollow and coarse). A knife we can control how it cuts in relation with the hair direction, on a broadhead entering an animal we do not have that control. The broadhead we want to "slice" through the lung, heart, liver tissue causing maximum bleeding, not just be pushed. Those organs are wet tissue and a narrower bevel will cut/slice that medium to a getter level than a wider bevel because it will have more, for lack of a better description, bite. The broadhead moves through the tissue with tissue starting at the point and then sliding up over the rear of the broadhead edge with the stretching tissue adding pressure to the cutting edge. The narrower bevel (17-22 degrees) should create less pressure (if sharp) and the rear of the broadhead because it should be slicing through tissue sooner and creating less drag on the wider rear. Where a wider bevel would create more drag because the tissue wouldn't start slicing till farther along the broadhead edge because it takes more pressure to begin with to get it to cut, also the wet tissue make it harder for with wider bevel to begin to bite into it. DANNY