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Magnus stingers won't shave
So I bought some Magnus stingers and everybody said that they where super sharp then I got them and they seemed kinda dull. Then I asked y'all how to know if they were sharp and everybody said to check and see if they shaved arm hair, so I tried and I could get one blade out of 6 to shave. I tried sharpening but that didn't work(probably user error). I know that they have a return policy and I could get some more or should I try and sharpen them even more
From what I've heard it seems like either I got a fluke or I just don't know what I'm doing because I am new to bow hunting. Still don't think it's a bad company
Just curious, what are you using to sharpen them?
I think that you are splitting hairs Bassmaster. I’ve shot numerous stingers straight out of the package and got pass through and I only shoot a 55lb bow.
At this point man, if you don't know what you are doing, you may have very likely dulled them even more or, otherwise dulled a head that was plenty sharp. That is not a knock on you but, shaving arm hair requires the blade to be at he precise angle, correct pressure, and extreme sharpness. You may not have had/have all three of these variables correct or you may have. At this point, if I were you, I'd call magnus, be straight with them and see what they would do. Because they were plenty sharp enough to hunt when you got them. And, without knowing how to sharpen, you may have ruined that now.
I shoot Stingers. I think they're great heads. I still hone and strop every one.
I'm sure there are some videos on sharpening and stropping broadheads out there on YouTube. Watch some. Buy some Herb's Yellowstone Honing Butter. Spend some Zen time with your broadheads. You will achieve scary sharp.
Thanks, obviously I am new to bow hunting and I'm just trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks for all the input
There are people that are skilled at sharpening....then there are some that are not. Those that are just need a file, stone and a strop. They can sharpen everything from knives to axe heads to chisels. To suggest to some to "sharpen" without knowing their capability is reckless. For most....leave the heads ALONE....they are sharp enough. This "shaving hair" stuff is getting out of control. At this point WV is spot on.
Just my opinion but they are just about impossible to get the hair shaving sharp.
Ive used an accu edge (recommended), lansky sharpening kit, and even an old leather belt to hone it.
Regardless if the have some light burrs Ive killed plenty of deer with them.
Only way to learn, Franklin, is to spend some time doing. It's a skill worth acquiring.
My advice for a beginner is to get either a lansky, gatco, or KME sharpener. All of these will allow you to adjust the angle of your bevel and it's pretty simple to get a hair popping edge on a broadhead or knife. There are quite a few good YouTube videos you can watch as well that will take you through the sharpening steps. Good luck!
I use the kme broadhead sharpener. Works for me.
Rada sharpener is your best fried! light pressure
Rada sharpener is your best friend! light pressure
I've had like one pack out of several that weren't ready to go sharp, a leather Strop had em ready to go in no time. If you are sharpening challenged, I recommend getting a sharpening system of some type! The KME Knife sharpening system is probably the easiest, biggest thing to remember sharpening broadheads, especially broadheads that have replaceable blades, don't press hard, they are usually flexible and if they flex while sharpening you will never get the same flex twice and won't ever get them sharp enough to hunt, let the abrasives do all the work, you're just there to guide the head through the process!
See....this is exactly what talking about. Everybody recommending sharpening devices when the simple answer is DON`T play with new broadheads, they are more than sharp enough and will kill whatever animal you are hunting. Practicing sharpening on a brand new set of broadheads and ruining the edge is NOT "a skill worth aquiring"....it`s insanity.
That is so not true all the time Franklin and with some brands it's absolutely not true all the time!
The point is to acquire the skill to make things sharp. Not to ruin the edge.
It doesn't take that long to learn how to sharpen knives, axe heads, chisels, broadheads, etc...
So, I'll continue to respectfully disagree with you Franklin.
Have a great season.
Most of the time with new blades,just use a old leather belt to strop.When made some new blades will have a burr.
Where did you get your heads? There are counterfeit stingers on eBay. Just an FYI.
Buy a quality sharpening system Iike the KME and watch some videos and you will easily be able to sharpen them. I’ve always found stingers to sharpen very easily into a hair popping edge on my KME
I usually shoot all my heads into a sand pit before hunting with them. It's good to do whatever needed to make sure you are hunting with sharp heads but start today learning how to put an edge on. No shame in not being able to, it's something that takes a little practice.
Returning broadheads that aren't sharp enough is like returning a truck because it ran out of gas :^)
The recommendation to strop is a good idea it may be the edge is slightly rolled (making it feel less sharp) and it will true up the edge. If that doesn't work, I will also back up the recomendation for the RADA Knife Sharpener. There is sharp then there is SHARP. I have sharpen things for years and do a really good job at it. Most people that I have sharpen items for say they are to sharp. I've tried other pull through sharpeners and found them more like modified knife steels. When I heard about the RADA the first time. I Googled it , watched the video where the guy sharpenes the Simmons Broadhead. Thought hmmmmm, for the price of them off of Amazon thought I would try it. I got it tried it. I have said this statement before and will repeat it again, "My wife can even sharpen a knife with one of these.", because she did. This sharpener WORKS as advertised. It can also act like a steel if you use VERY light pressure pulling between the harden washers. Acouple of things nice about this sharpener: 1) It maintains a consistant edge angle on both sides of the blade (that is important having something sharp) as long as you keep the item being sharpen vertical, when pulling it through the washers. 2) The washers rotate freely. Advantage to that you are not using the same spoto n the washers time after time when sharpening, allowing the sharpening ability of the shapener to last a long time. 3) It easily packable because of its size, which is an aid being in the field. Need to touch up a knife or broadhead especially on an extended hunting trip, couple of pulls you are good to go. This does not replace stone shapening, "especially" if you want to change an edge's bevel angle. If you do not have any sharpening skills, like my wife which has none, this can put on a shaving sharp edge on a knife or broadhead, without a lot of effort. If you have great sharpening skills, but don't have the time, or are some where you can't, this is a great item to have. DANNY
You need to learn how to sharpen broadheads . Very few COC broadheads are ethically sharp enough to hunt with. Lots of utube videos on sharpening. It takes practice, but it's worth the effort.
I have used Magnus Stingers but did not think they were sharp enough out of the box. My Lansky fixed that. Great BH but you may need to sharpen them.
I used a stone and oil and touched up with a leather strop. My Stingers were sharp out of the package, now they are crazy sharp, so sharp that if I think about touching the blade, my finger starts to bleed
My Stingers are sharp, but I use a sharpie, KME, and a leather block. They become insanely sharp.
This is literally different strokes for different folks. Over the years, I have used just about every kind of sharpener. I shoot Stingers and have found them to be sharp out of the package. But the cheap $10.00 Rada sharpener really works. You can take out of the package Stingers (which are pretty sharp) and with a half dozen or so light strokes through the Rada, they are the real deal. You can strop a little afterward but I see no real improvement. If I have older broadheads that become dull I will still use the KME to bring the edge back. It is also a fine product.
Try wetting your arm before trying to shave it.
Just because a head is advertised as being sharp enough to hunt right of the package does not make it so. Several times I have bought such heads and had to put a better edge on them before I was satisfied they were sharp enough to use. One of the packages was the Magnus stinger which I bought for a young friend to use. Not sharp enough to pop hair off my arm. I used a leather strop with honing compound and after about 20 passes on each side I was popping hair off my arm. Take the time to learn how to sharpen and maintain an edge on your heads. They will need to be touched up several times during the season as they will dull a bit each time you take them out of your quiver and then place them back inside the protective foam.
I think they are great heads. But I have always sharpened mine on a Lansky, before hunting with them. I had no problem getting them shaving sharp.
I shoot my Stingers dozens of times before hunting. Then 10 to 40 strokes with a $10 Accu-Sharp and they easily shave hair on my arm. I have been shooting Stinger 2-blades exclusively for many years and they are great, and easy to get sharp. (And I do have a large water stone and am a proficient chef...I know how to get an edge. Accu-Sharp is a great tool for someone looking to get a Stinger hunting-sharp.)