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Ok guys, this not an archery equipment topic, however it is related to my base camp for archery season and with two weeks of hunting coming up, I'm hoping a bowsiter out there is an AC/HVAC guy that can help me fix myself..
Here's the deal, the heater in my camper turns on when I click the switch over on the thermostat.. however, when the temp drops it won't turn back on, but if I flip the switch on the thermostat (turn on to off to on) it kicks back on.. so basically I have to manually turn it on when the temperature drops which sucks at 2am.. initially I thought the thermostat swas bad, so I replaced it, that was not the fix. Any thoughts are welcome, I'm just trying to save the hassle of taking it in
My best recommendation is contact the manufacturer if possible
If the blower comes on, but the furnace doesn't ignite check the sail switch. It is a micro switch that senses airflow and will not allow ignition if it's stuck closed. If the furnace does nothing it may be the high limit switch, which is an overheat safety.
Try a good cleaning of the internals with compressed air and make sure the intake and exhaust are not blocked. Spider webs and rodent nests are the main causes of blockage.
Toothpick, thank you.. when the furnace is on, heat does come out.. it just does not turn on by itself once the temp drops
That is more than likely the high limit switch on the main ignition board. It is a safety measure to prevent the furnace from burning down the camper.
Try and blow out the intake and exhaust with air, if you don't have an air compressor you can use a shop vac in reverse order even a leaf blower.
If that doesn't work you will need to do some troubleshooting with a voltmeter and a wiring diagram. Or just replace the main ignition board if it isn't too costly. Sometimes the cost of the board is less than what you would pay to take it in for diagnostics.
What is the model of the furnace, and what age is it?
It's a suburban furnace, don't know exact model.. it's a 2016
Make sure you have good battery connections, no corrosion, looseness, etc. If you drop below 9.5 volt dc furnace will shut down until reset. If that is not the problem then there are several issues including some listed above that will cause ignition lockout. Have you observed furnace shut off at temp? Attempted to restart? Possibly unit was turned on at bedtime, you fall asleep and wake up to no heat/operation and think it shut off once and didn't attempt restart?
When I flip the switch, it ignites just fine and gets to temp and shuts off. It does not attempt to re-start or ignite when temps drop unless I flip the switch off and back on again
Dang, sounds like a tricky one. Could be sail switch sticking, limit switch opening, control board relay sticking. Very hard to say without being there to see it. Check for the obvious, any airflow obstructions, etc. Try calling manufacturer and let them know symptoms, they may be able to solve issue rapidly, if it has been an ongoing issue with there units. Good Luck
How soon are you attempting to turn it back on? Some furnaces require time to "clear" before they'll fire up again...I assume a safety mechanism to clear any potential combustible vapors, or something along those lines.
Assuming it is lighting correctly initially as you have stated it is going to be the limit switch, the sail switch, the circuit board, the thermostat on the wall (which you have already replaced), or the control (most likely in the return air of the air conditioner). The only way to know for sure is to put a meter on the lines and see where the electricity is stopping.
In essence what you are doing when you turn it off, and then on again is resetting the system. You want to check the system once it has turned off and after it should have relit. Do not turn the thermostat off, check for power on the blue - line from the furnace to the control, and work back from there.