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I’m having an issue getting a good flight with broadheads. I would appreciate some much needed help. I shoot a Triax 29” dl @ 64lbs with Easton FMJ’s with nockturnal’s and a 125 grain head. I have good arrow flight with field points but when I put on a fixed blade broad head I’m constantly high and left. Per my shop the bow is tuned well. Checked with a paper tune and I have a good hole. I tried both 340 and 400 spine and still have poor flight (fish tails). The best flight I got was with a 100 grain head and a 50 grain insert but still doesn’t seem to fly like a bullet. I’m pretty sure my form is ok.
Tuning compounds for good fixed-blade BH's is an art. Some bows tune easy, especially with static yokes.
Suggest studying the interview Pat conducted on this subject.
Other will surly chime-in that have experience with your bow.
Hey bud I have never had a fix blade fly like I wanted I have just found the most deadly broadhead the (SWAT) check it out it is awesome. Aim low
Flight and they group I wish I could help you, but I’m not that accomplished at BH tuning. I usually go to my pro shop and have them help me get tuned. Basically they get my bow paper tuned with field points and BHs have followed. And I shoot fixed heads exclusively. I’ve had good success with Magnus Stingers, Exodous, Slick Tricks and my current broad head, Iron Will. I read what you said about your form. That’s usually the issue when I have problems. Good luck.
What have you done so far? Paper? Walkback? Bareshaft? YouTube any 3 of those to get you started.
I’ve papertuned and walk back tuned.
Here's I tune my BowTech:
First I make sure the nock are not too tight. Snug, but not snap in.
Then I set the arrow level with the burger hole and centershot using special tools. Tie in top and bottom nock sets. Then add D-loop. Using a draw board, check to make sure the arrow nocks are not pinched at full draw.
Then using field points, shoot at 20 yards until each arrow can hit precisely my aiming point.
Then shoot a fixed blade Broadhead and see where it hits in relations to the field point.
If the Broadhead hits high, I move my rest down slightly maybe 1/16 of an inch. Make vertical adjustments first.
Next after I shoot the Broadhead and field point at two different spots after each time I make adjustments. Once vertical adjustments are corrected then lateral is corrected using static yolk if your bow has them. If they don't, move the rest in or out to correct for Broadhead impact. For example, if the broadheads are hitting left of the field points, move your rest slightly to the right.
That is considering you have no vane interference, the arrows spin true, you have good form. You don't have knocked pinch, the bow is properly tuned and arrows are probably spined.
I don't waste my time paper tuning anymore. Nor do I drive to the bow shop to let them screw my bow up and pay them good money to do it.
If you build your own arrows, use a spine indicator tester and mark the stiffest side of the arrow. Then align the cock vane with that mark. Orientate that vane up.
Do you have someone else that can shoot your bow? Could be hand torque. Try some different hand positions. My prime centergy will start sending some ugly arrows down range if I get sloppy with my grip. Peel the fletching off a shaft and see what they do at 20 yards, both impact and direction into target.
Just to many things could be the problem to find the answer on the internet. You ned an experienced person to have the bow and arrows it there hands. Depending what you put up front and he length of your arrow either arrow could work but I would lean towards the 340's. I shoot a Halon 32 at 60# arrow is a 340 GT Hunter Pro 28 1/2" with 125 head. They shoot a fixed head fine. I did have my bow set up by an experienced mechanic from Lancaster Archery and only needed minor rest adjustments to get it right. I rarely paper tune but do shoot bare shafts out to 40 yards and make sure they impact with my fletched arrows. Getting a fixed BH to impact is not an easy task at distance. Most shooters would benefit by shooting a low profile Mechanical.
I've had to adjust the top hats to bareshaft tune a couple triaxs this year. It can be a finicky bow with the ATA and brace height.
Strip the fletching off one of your arrows or clip the fletching with scissors. Then shoot a group at 20 yards and attach the pic like you see below. If the shop tuned it it could be way off for "your grip and release." Attach a pic like this and we can go from there.
Also don't shoot broadheads with the bareshaft..just fieldpoints!! Then we will better know what to do with the broadheads.
Walkback tuning is my favorite fool proof way. It's amazing at how a very slight adjustment on the rest can make a big difference. I needed to move mine less than the width of a single hatch mark.
I walkbacked with FP's, screwed on a fixed blade and made sure it spun perfectly true. They flew as true as I could shoot. At long range they seemed to drift slightly but there was a little breeze. Either way the bow is stacking them in the center at most hunting ranges.
if your broadheads are consistently high and left a small move of the rest down and right to bring them together would be my course of action.
The other day I helped rattling junkie tune his bow, bullet hole through the paper but slicktricks and muzzy impact left so we tried a Exodus, dead on
Damn good shooting Skipmaster!
if you shoot a bullet hole with a bare shaft at 40" through paper then your bow should shoot anything.
i would almost bet 100% its your grip creating torque
Both of my bows (same model) have a Van Handle Death Grip installed.
Eliminates grip problems.
Well I took the bow to another shop. The tech couldn’t get my FMJ’s to tune. He was stumped. So I tried couple other brands of arrows and they flew perfectly. Weird. So it’s tuned arrows are flying good now I hope I can get rid of the arrows I bought for nothing. Thanks for all the help.
Good to hear your tuned and ready.
Something similar happens to me every year,Bow will be shooting great all summer and when I put on a BH something goes wrong. This year my broadheads seemed to be kicking to the right. After much frustration I found where they were barely impacting my cable strings and that was enough to start the arrow off course. It didn't change where my FP hit but BH drifter further right at longer distances.