Sitka Mountain Gear
Weird... Arrow Shaft Selection
Whitetail Deer
Contributors to this thread:
Rutnrod1995 21-Sep-18
Boreal 21-Sep-18
Rutnrod1995 21-Sep-18
smarba 21-Sep-18
Pyrannah 21-Sep-18
Pyrannah 21-Sep-18
BowhuntKS 21-Sep-18
GF 21-Sep-18
mattandersen 21-Sep-18
Rutnrod1995 21-Sep-18
BowhuntKS 21-Sep-18
Trophy8 21-Sep-18
JTV 21-Sep-18
BowhuntKS 21-Sep-18
CSAL 21-Sep-18
WV Mountaineer 21-Sep-18
TD 22-Sep-18
JTV 22-Sep-18
Cheesehead Mike 24-Sep-18
MDcrazyman 28-Sep-18
From: Rutnrod1995
21-Sep-18
Ok, so I'll keep it short and sweet, I shoot a Halon 32 at 67 lbs and 30.5 draw length. I have .300 spined FMJ arrows with a 100 grain broadhead, I shaved the shaft down to the bear minimum to increase spine and my broadheads still hit 6 inches to a foot right of field point at 50 yards. Am I still underspined? I feel like I could perhaps go to a stiffer spine, but it's getting up there! What are your guys thoughts? Do FMJ's even come in anything thicker?

From: Boreal
21-Sep-18
Sounds like a rest problem.

From: Rutnrod1995
21-Sep-18
I should have elaborated I suppose. I have a drop away and have spent all summer tuning. I just cannot get the broadhead and field point to break that 6"-12" gap.

From: smarba
21-Sep-18
Rest adjustment or fletching clearance issue. Does field point shoot bullet holes thru paper at 3-6 yards?

From: Pyrannah
21-Sep-18
Bow torque? That seems to be a very common problem

From: Pyrannah
21-Sep-18
My buddy got his bowtech to tune with .340s at 31”dL and 75#

I don’t understand how it works but it does for him

From: BowhuntKS
21-Sep-18
Adjust your rest to the left to hit your fieid point holes. I'm betting it makes no difference to your fieid point point of impact. At least that's how I've fixed your described problem.

From: GF
21-Sep-18
I've only corrected that kind of a problem one time on one bow, but that's what I did and it worked like a charm. Started close and walked it back.

Seems to me that if the arrow goes where it's supposed to under the most demanding conditions (BH) then in the least demanding conditions (FP), they should just drop right into the same place.

Simplistic of me, but I wonder how many guys who use mechanicals "because they fly like field points" would be better off trying to get FPs to fly like broadheads instead of the other way around???

From: mattandersen
21-Sep-18
May not make your bow "tuned" better but 4" feather fletching will help. It helped me shoot fixed blades better with field points.

From: Rutnrod1995
21-Sep-18
I shoot Shuttle-T's. I have messed with the rest, I've gotten a finger guard to train my hands to not torque, I have a great follow through (in my opinion) Which is why I'm so stumped. I got my BH's hitting where I want for season, but I feel like I could definitely do more. I even tried chasing the BH with the FP. Which got me to within' 6 inches, but like I said, I just cannot bridge that gap....

ADD: I was shooting terrific bullet holes. My shop actually kept the bullet hole for comparison. He was extremely impressed.

From: BowhuntKS
21-Sep-18
Move the broadheads to the field point holes. Very, very, small move. It works.

From: Trophy8
21-Sep-18
How tall are you? Where do you anchor? What happens at 30yds? Sounds more like an issue with the Indian and not the bow.

From: JTV
21-Sep-18
Bullet holes dont mean crap .. they really dont, I do a french tune indoors the walk back tune to finalize everything (on a CALM day, and when I'm fresh and rested) .... I hate paper tuning, I really do... it only gives a brief glimpse of what is going on.... I have done the french and walk back, then a small tweek with the rest with the fixed heads, and the FP's and BH's were perfect at 50 yds... went back to the paper, and BOOM, there was a tear .... I adjusted to get rid of it, and the FP's/BH's were apart... WTF... redid my french tune and walk back, got both hitting same POI again and never went back to paper ( that was years back) ... Ive seen others chase the tear, and it about drove 'em crazy ...... some will bare shaft tune with or without paper, I dont........ I do a basic set up and then go straight to the french tune/walk back and then BH tune or even shimming the cams if needed, which I did on my Ally not long back .... sometimes all it take is a twist or two of the cables, or moving the shims.... but for me, I dont go near the paper ...

From: BowhuntKS
21-Sep-18
Yea I agree, paper gets you close but it doesn't mean much if your for and bh's are not hitting the same spot. Of course bhs need to be set up correctly on the shaft but that's another issue. If bhs are flying true moving their point of impact to the for point of impact gets you where you want to be. I like the rest of the grey beards on here have dealt with most of the tuning issues out there. But you are correct, if it is operator error, put the bow up and come back tomorrow when you're in the right state of mind.

From: CSAL
21-Sep-18
You may need to swap your top hats. I shoot a triax but the halon series has the same system. They are shims that allow you to move the cams back and forth. You should set your centershot to 13/16 and use the top hats to remove any lateral tear. There are some videos and stuff put there about it

21-Sep-18
Make sure you have no string stretch, cam lean, etc......

From: TD
22-Sep-18
It's not spine, you're plenty stiff. About 2/3 of the easton tuning guide needs to be torn out and thrown away, it's for trad bows, not compound. If rest adjustments aren't doing it start all over from scratch. Set everything to factory specs. I like the paper to make sure I'm set up fairly close, then go to broadhead tuning. Shoot a "group" of broadheads, then of FPs. move the rest toward the FP group (chase the FPs) like 64th, 32nd or so. I like to move vertical until groups are equal height (always seems easiest) then horizontal. Don't touch the sights, you arn't shooting to hit a spot. Folks screw that up all the time. Both groups will move but the broadhead group should move more. When they come together you're tuned, then sight in.

If they WON'T come together then the chase as to why comes in. A bit of lipstick on fletching to see if you have contact somewhere, rest, cables, etc. Have someone else shoot it. Those bows are hard on form mistakes (too long of draw is one.) See if it makes a difference. Lastly you may have to switch out "top hats" to get better cam alignment. Look it up online, there are lots of yourubes and info. My buddies triax we had to do that, almost had to order the kit as the stock hats almost were not enough. IMO their system sucks, yokes are just so much easier to tune and you don't need to order any extra kits. But it is what it is. Good luck.

From: JTV
22-Sep-18
While Ive shot a Binary cam bow for many years, when and if I ever get a new bow (I say if 'cause the Ally is still so damn good), it will be a bow with yokes .. The back up bow has top yokes (Single Cam) it was very easy to tune and get same POI with FP's/BH's ..

24-Sep-18
I have a Halon 6 that I fought with for 2 years trying to get the FP and BH groups to come together. I got mine closer than yours but not perfect. It was very frustrating because I've tuned several bows and never failed to bring groups together by adjusting the rest, nock point, etc. I finally got satisfactory results by switching the tophats on the upper cam. I suggest that is your problem too. Also, my Halon is very sensitive to hand torque and it shows up much more with broadheads.

From: MDcrazyman
28-Sep-18
I actually went the other way, I shoot a 400 inch FMJ and that brought mine together. I have a lighted nock that stiffens the arrow up more but it helped tremendously. Sometimes it just likes what it likes.

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