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Arrow build: 4 fletch arrows.
Good evening bowsite, I am looking to build my first set of arrows. For years I have shot Gold tip 5575 340 hunter xt with a variety of vanes. They have flown well and proven very durable, however, my last dozen aren't steering my broadheads very well. Generally my QAD exodus fly just like my field points, not this time. I figured it was time to get some arrow building tools and make my own arrows. I have read and YouTubed a great deal about the process. Now I have to decide which components to use. I plan to use the arrows for everything in North America from Turkey to Brown Bear. Getting my arrows to shoot like field points with broadheads is a must for me. My arrows tend to last me quite a while, so I plan to invest in my components. I'm considering Easton FMJ 300 or Victory RIP 204 Elite. These are two completely different arrows I realize. For vanes I'd be looking for shorter vanes that weigh around 4.5 grains, such as Flex Fletch FFP 2.25 or Blaser X2. I like an arrow 450+ grains, but 600ish would be nice. I'm curious to hear about anyone's experience with 4 fletch. Which components did you use?feather vanes? weights of components? your results and recommendations? helical degrees of vanes? tip inserts? FOC thoughts?
Shooting four fletch vanes may change the FOC of your arrow. This can be adjusted by adding weight up front but just be aware of this.
I switched to four fletch last year. I'll never go back to 3 fletch. I use AAE 2.3 plastifletch max on VAP elites.. 480 grain total arrow weight 17% FOC.
I ripped four vanes off two dozen arrows and refletched them with three 360 vanes.
I shoot 4 blazer vanes on an Easton Epic 340 at 28". I put just a slight offset on them and shoot a Ramcat out of my Elite Synergy. They fly like darts for me!
Depends on your setup
But I like that you can use more smaller vanes that equal the steerage of 3 big vanes
The smaller vanes provide better clearance with the sight as well as better clearance for shooting around vegetation and they are quieter than high profile vanes
If three aren't doing the job with the same setup you had that did work before, I would imagine something changed on your bow, nothing wrong with four Fletch, but if your bow isn't tuned, it probably won't fix the problem!
I switched to 4 heat vanes from standard Blazers, to see if there would be less wind drift. I also like that I can knock the arrow either way. Only draw back has been the cost of 1 extra vane and time to fletch.
I am using AAE max vanes with 4 vanes with a bit of helical on a black Eagle Deep Impact shaft. Total arrow weight is about 550 grains. I am shooting a 175 gr solid VPA 3 Blade with a 100 gr insert. Shoots like a dart and hits hard. First year shooting it and so far it has performed great on deer.
Oldgoat, I completely agree. Bow recently tuned, newer strings/cables, paper tearing perfect. Old mismatch arrows still flying good, just don't have a quiver full. Newest dozen built by someone else, they fly a little different, especially with broadheads. Just figured it was time to build my own. And yes, on my 2013 prime Defy, the cable is pretty close. More clearance would be nice. 28 inch draw, with 29 inch arrows (I like my broadheads away from my fingers). I'd like to keep shooting my 125gr QAD Exodus and not play the broadheads trial game again. . . That's why I'm considering a 4-Fletch, to steer larger fixed blade heads, now and in the future. I'm curious to see what's worked for other folks. Including going back to 3 Fletch. Thanks for your comments!
I have shot exodus 125 gr with three 4 inch fletch and they flew great.
I missed a buck tonight, from the ground at 45 yards. I shoot 4 fletch Fusions, 2.5 inch and love them.... I can tell you I buried a Wasp SST 125 grain head, into a ironwood tree, and the blades are still intact, of course, its not coming out,,,, impressive head
My 4 fletch are easy to nock, on the run, and fly better in the wind, in my opinion
I went to four-fletch (with Bohning Blazer vanes) a decade ago and wouldn't go back. 475 grain total arrow weight. I especially like being able to nock the arrow without having to look down and check the cock vane direction. As others have said, however, you might need to add more weight up front to restore FOC.
I switched to four Fusion X-II vanes a couple of years ago. I shot three Blazers for years but on one bow I was getting occasional vane to cable contact. It was a hand torque, but if I had the odd problem on targets, then I was definitely worried about it on animals. 2.1" size. The Fusions are 2.1" long, .43" high and weigh 5.8 grains. I use a fairly a moderate helical because the vanes are quite stiff. I'm also using an antique Bitz for a 105 X 75 degree configuration. As a bonus, I get better rest clearance, and of course, you can't put a four fletch on upside down.
If you use the Fusions, you have to get the black base vanes. Apparently earlier ones had adhesion problems.
Don’t throw out gold tips you’re shooting too weak of spine imo. You should be shooting 300. You can play with the weights pretty good with those arrows by adding weights inside the shafts. Gold tips have a lot of options to choose from with weights, shaft diameter and they are tough as hell. If you’re having flight issues it’s not the shaft it’s spine weakness and I typically tune each individual arrow with a fixed head to get them all dialed in. As far as fletching 4 blazers is an excellent setup but most will due just fine. It’s not fletching design it’s more of surface area that steers fixed heads. The more fletch you have the better you’ll be. Blazers can be loud and smaller profile vanes give better clearance. Vane durability and how easy they are to attach to the arrow are why I like blazers. You get above 500 grains you will lose trajectory and your pin gap will get larger. Just a thought on that.
Just curious whether you wheelie-guys ever try bare-shaft tuning? Seems like it should go dirt-simple.
And if I can get dead-center shooting out to 25 yards using fingers and shooting off the shelf, it seems like a release and a drop-away would be just like CHEATING.
Use 4 if you like; I’m striving for none required, and then I’ll fletch them up with whatever appeals to my eye, knowing that I’m into Overkill with it.
GF- yep I bareshaft tune always! Perfect arrow flight is what I strive for. However I still need vanes to control the broadhead and also to help with those unforgiving shots I might make in the field.
Here is a pic of a bareshaft and 3 fletched. Shot at 56 yards.
Ermine that is impressive, heck I'm doing good to shoot groups like that at 30 yards with fletched arrows!
i shoot 4 fletch blazers with 175 grain - 1 7/8" cut fixed.
they fly light darts.....
Olebuck, do you know what your FOC is? Just out of curiosity. Obviously it's only one parameter to arrow flight
sharp stick slinger.
i don't know exatcly - but its heavy on the end...... i've never measured it.
i shoot gold tip expedition hunter .300 Spine.
I use a 2" sleeve of aluminum shaft over the front of the arrow for a footer. (24 grains) a normal weight aluminum insert.
Total arrow weight is 515 grains.
Finally finding time for my arrow build. Seems that I can achieve the specs that I'd like with. Easton Axis 300 Pro Series (Match grade) Shafts cut 27.5" with 75gr HIT brass inserts and 5gr BAR. 125gr broadheads. 4 fletch AAE Plastifletch 23 (2.3" x 0.38", 4.6gr). According to Gold Tips FOC calculator, it should have FOC 15.0% and total weight of 526gr.
Question: These are "5mm" arrows, which I understand is "micro" diameter. Besides maybe needing to raise drop away rest very slightly, is there any other factors I should be considering? Of course my quiver might not grip the arrows as well...
Any help here much appreciated. Thanks
I'm with Oldgoat on this one, your fletching is not the problem.
This is my set up 4 inch 4 fletch I can shoot any tip as long as its 125 gr and it flys the same field tip or broadhead. I use a rip cord rest