Mathews Inc.
Beman ICS Bowhunter Shafts
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
DarrinG 07-Feb-19
Big haus 07-Feb-19
JTV 07-Feb-19
Ambush 07-Feb-19
DarrinG 07-Feb-19
WV Mountaineer 07-Feb-19
Ambush 07-Feb-19
lv2bohunt 07-Feb-19
Nick Muche 07-Feb-19
JTV 07-Feb-19
Tonybear61 07-Feb-19
DarrinG 07-Feb-19
JTV 08-Feb-19
Owl 08-Feb-19
EmbryOklahoma 08-Feb-19
PAbowhunter1064 08-Feb-19
Glunker 08-Feb-19
12yards 08-Feb-19
x-man 08-Feb-19
DarrinG 08-Feb-19
SBH 08-Feb-19
x-man 08-Feb-19
DarrinG 08-Feb-19
David A. 08-Feb-19
DarrinG 15-Feb-19
Matt 15-Feb-19
JTV 15-Feb-19
From: DarrinG
07-Feb-19
Hard to teach an old dog new tricks....Ive been an aluminum arrow shooter for 30 plus years. I'm not one for a lot of change, and I still plan on shooting XX75's from my recurve. However, I am finally giving carbon a chance with my old '04 Bowtech Patriot single cam. I'm currently shooting XX75 2314 Camo Hunters w/ 100g Muzzy 3 blade. Draw length 28.5", 60#. The price point of the Beman ICS Bowhunter shafts are temping to at least give them an honest try. Thoughts on the Beman ICS Bowhunter shafts? And what spine would you recommend with my setup? Thanks in advance!

From: Big haus
07-Feb-19
I use xx80s

From: JTV
07-Feb-19
340 series with the 100 gr tip with those Bemans ...... .... My Alligiance is 64 lbs and I'm using 340 GT XT's .... 400's might work, they would be a tad lighter

From: Ambush
07-Feb-19
I shot the Hunters for quite a few years. Very good value for the money and they are tough. When I shot them, I checked for run out and static spine and always put the stiff side up. I still have a few around.

You didn’t say what weight your intended broadhead is, but you can likely use 400’s unless you start adding big weight up front. Then go with 340’s

From: DarrinG
07-Feb-19
100 grain heads.

07-Feb-19
Great shafts. I really like mine and by the time I foot them, they are around 450 grains. I shoot the 340's out of a 27 inch draw, 70 pound Missions ballistic 2.0. I've got one shaft that I've shot 4 deer with. I recently made a mental note to try and make sure I use only it from now on until it breaks or, I lose it. Expect a couple dozen more out of it at least.

From: Ambush
07-Feb-19
If your shafts are 28” or less the 400’s will be plenty for a 100 gr head. Get the 340’s if you want to leave them longer or want to try a heavier head. Under spine’d is never good.

You are shooting a release, I assume?

From: lv2bohunt
07-Feb-19
I have been shooting Beman ICS Hunter 400 for about 10 years. I shoot 63# draw weight, 28.5” arrow with 100 grain point. I have also killed my last 3 deer with the same arrow. They are a great arrow.

From: Nick Muche
07-Feb-19
I’ve killed over a dozen deer with the Beman ICS hunter shafts. Not a bad option for close range whitetail shots. Haven’t used them in years but I’d guess they are still just fine.

From: JTV
07-Feb-19
If I wasnt such a huge Goldtip fan (20yrs), I'd be shooting the ICS Hunters, as said, they are a good shaft ..... Hey, Ralph and Vicky shoot 'em ;0)

From: Tonybear61
07-Feb-19
Beman IC 400s with a tube inside adding 3 or 5 grains per inch. Goldtips work great in my recurves too.

From: DarrinG
07-Feb-19
Yes, I shoot a release with my Bowtech.

I see some of you referencing the "ICS Hunter" shafts. Is that the same shaft as the "ICS Bowhunter" shaft?

From: JTV
08-Feb-19
The "Hunter" Classic is .003 straightness ..... the "BowHunter" is .006 in straightness .... personally,I buy my GT XT's which are .003 and cut from both ends to get my 28" length .... doing that gets rid of any 'runout' in the ends of the shafts and thus a much straighter shaft.... I trust no one but myself to make up my arrows .. you can either cut with or without a nock in them, if it has the nock in, measure from the bottom of the U of the nock to the opposite end of the shaft for correct length, ..... if my GT's dont have the nock in, they are 27 3/4" ... 28" with the nock in, so they are a 28" arrow to be correct .... .. since I cut from both ends to get my length... I'll square the rear then cut the front, then square the front cut the rear, resquare the rear and insert the nock ... final cut makes my arrows without the nock 27 3/4" (28" with nock)... I am very anal when it comes to how I make up my arrows, fletching and gluing inserts in ....

From: Owl
08-Feb-19
The Beman ICS Bowhunter is a great shaft. Your set-up (sort of) splits the 340/400 range but I would start with the 340 as other have suggested.

08-Feb-19
I shoot 500s out of my #53 lb recurve. I like them. Have killed over 1/2 dozen deer and several hogs with them. Very convenient for me to order a dozen already fletched and cut to length from 3rivers. All I do is add weight up front and sharpen broadheads. I think you'll like them!

08-Feb-19

PAbowhunter1064's embedded Photo
PAbowhunter1064's embedded Photo
Best shaft for the money....and the best part, made right here in the good ol' USA!! I agree with the others....go with the 340's and you'll be a happy fella! Good luck!

From: Glunker
08-Feb-19
I had a similar set up but with 125 gr heads. Had great broadhead flight.

From: 12yards
08-Feb-19
I shoot Beman ICS Hunters and Gold Tip XT Hunters. Both are .003 shafts and both are very durable and more accurate than I am. The Cabelas Stalker Extremes are Beman ICS Hunters rebranded and i have a bunch of those too. I shot 400s out of my 60#, 29" draw Hoyts but switched to 340s for my Elites as they seem to perform better with a stiffer shaft. All arrows were cut to 28". I even used 125 grain Steelhead mechanicals with the 400s for a while with no problems. Probably better with 100 grain heads though. Good luck!

From: x-man
08-Feb-19
The Bowhunter shafts are just fine. Cut an inch off the nock end first, then cut to length and they will be just as straight as the Hunter shafts. Using a release means you don't have to worry about being over-spined. If you want a light shaft buy the 400's(borderline under-spined), if you want a heavier shaft buy the 340's if you want an even heavier shaft buy the 300's. If your tune and your form are both good, all three shaft spines will fly well out of your setup.

From: DarrinG
08-Feb-19
Thanks gentlemen, I took the plunge and ordered 1/2 doz Beman Bowhunter 340's. I'll get`em fletched and give`em a whirl and if they do well, I'll order more.

From: SBH
08-Feb-19
I've had no issues with them either. Great arrow for the money as far as I can tell.

From: x-man
08-Feb-19
These were by far my biggest sellers at my shop, even though I tried to push the Carbon Tech arrows.

Just make sure you clean and etch the Beman shafts prior to building. The clear finish on them can make fletch adhesion poor if you don't etch the finish first.

From: DarrinG
08-Feb-19
Thanks for the advice. After using aluminum and building my own for 30 plus years, switching to carbon (or at least giving them an honest try) is a new learning curve.

When you say "etch" the surface, do you mean scrub the area to fletch with something like a scotch brite pad?

Next question....will hot-melt (ferrl-tite) work with installing inserts? I like to align my broadheads with my vanes (fixed blade BH shooter here), and a little heat on the shaft will soften hot melt just enough to rotate inserts to align with fletching. Is this advisable with carbon or can someone enlighten me on another technique?

Thanks in advance.

From: David A.
08-Feb-19
Yes use non metallic Scotch pad. . Don’t apply heat to shaft end, apply to a field point to lossen insert; but it is best to rotate broadhead while hot melt still moveable; be quick!

From: DarrinG
15-Feb-19
Thanks for all the good advice. I got in my 1/2 dozen Beman ICS Bowhunter 340 shafts and fletched`em up and gave them a test run. I must say they shoot as well as the much more expensive CE shafts I have. For 1/2 the price of the CE Maximas I have, these Beman Bowhunter shafts seem excellent and should make a great hunting arrow. Thanks again.

From: Matt
15-Feb-19
If memory serves ferrl-tite has a higher melting temp than low temp hot melt, which is what most recommend in terms of a reversible insert adhesive for carbon arrows. Use heat very judiciously with carbons. I use a tea candle and roll the shaft ~3/4" above the flame. Low and slow.

From: JTV
15-Feb-19
I use Insert Iron by Bohning, it is a slow cure expanding glue and will be stronger than any of the hot melts and less chance of having the insert pull of of the shaft .. a few drops is all it takes, rotate the insert as you put it in ...wipe off excess... I always put my Slicks in the insert as I glue them so I can align the blades to the vanes and do spin checks, I have always done this.... the slow cure Insert Iron allows me the time to do so .... about a 8 hour dry time ... BTW, I use a .25 cal. bronze bore brush to rough up the inside of the shaft, and wipe it out with a Qtip dipped in Denatured Alcohol, then I glue

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