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can anyone give me some ideas on how to space the seeds and the rows? Im thinking 4 inches on the seeds and 15 inches on the rows.
Mine are spaced 2 inches apart on 30 inch rows. Even with wider spacing the plants will spread to cover gaps. It’s best if you can get consistent spacing. With 15 inch rows the beans will canopy quicker. That will help with weed control and moisture conservation
On small 1/4 to 1 acre plots we broadcast on worked soil and then drag or cullipack. We spread 60lbs per acre on early plots (first weeks of may) and increase up to 80/90lbs on later (june)....this works good on first tilled ground to keep weeds down...we have also drilled 7" rows that also have advantages or 15" rows for canopy...worst thing here is jiggers...you get grass you will have jiggers and deer get them just like we do and will avoid the plot
Inquire as to the bean variety. Some grow tall, some are more bush type, this makes a difference on spacing. GL.
Not totally understanding your inquiry. Are you wanting to know how to go about planting them in rows? Are you planting by hand, a planter, or broadcaster? If broadcasting, I’d say junior’s rate would be about right. I’d try to get them covered somehow about 1”-2” deep as well, if possible. Not sure about the jiggers, though. They must be like chiggers, only smaller maybe? ;-)
t-roy, I'm planting them with a single row planter, walk behind, little more than half acre. my seed plate says 3.6 inches seed spacing and I'm figuring 15 inch rows. not worried about deer over browsing, I live in the true upstate NY in the Adirondacks. I do have plenty of deer but not to the point of devouring all the crop before it matures. I have an acre of nice clover they like.
At that spacing you are around 120,000 seeds per acre....you should be good to go if you plant no wider than 15"..if we plant later june 15th id bump it to 150,000.... Yes, its chiggers ;) Habitat for Wildlife is right on variety, especially if you want to maximize bean yield. If your just looking for early season browse variety isnt as important. Your just wanting a good even stand that will canopy as fast as possible so you dont spend a ton of money on herbicide. Assuming you planting RR?
The beans are forage soybeans and not RR, the field I'm planting is pretty weed free. did well last year with cowpeas in it.
Forage beans? Broadcast and be done with it.
How big of a plot are you doing? Are you talking about using something like this, crowny??!!! If so, my hat’s off to You! I’m with Frank, on just broadcasting and be done with it, especially if they’re just forage beans. I’d just seed them a tad heavy to ensure good coverage and canopy.
I would be shocked if deer don’t devour before beans reach 6”. I think you will find that to be the case for a 1/2 acre with even moderate density of deer. Fencing is generally the only option for soybeans.
t'roy yes that's what I use, its a lot of work but I have harvested a big buck the last three years planting my plots with it. I am not to sure about the broadcasting, never did it that way with the peas and corn. as for mike-TN I planted beans couple years ago at 30 inches apart and the deer didn't really hit them till they turned yellow, harvested a big nine outta the plot. there is lots of other readily available food for them during the summer.
Good deal. That seems almost direct opposite of my experience where they hit them hard in July and Aug once I take the fence down. I usually let them get waist high before removing the fence. The deer will strip every leaf and pod in 4-5 weeks. And the field is surrounded by clover so there is plenty of other food. This is eagle seed beans. In regards to planting I will till, broadcast and drag or use a woods planter seeder. Either has worked great
Your clover by July/August is not nearly as palatable as in the Spring and Fall, at least that has been my experience.
If there are other crops close by, I have had smaller bean plots, 2-3 acres, do fine. You are right in that they hit them hard, but enough beans make it that the deer keep coming back and so when I broadcast rye grain in over the beans as they begin to yellow, the deer have been "trained" if you will that the field produces food.
It doesn't work every where, but maybe something worth considering.
Habitat for Wildlife, I will definitely try the grain when the beans yellow as well as mixing in some turnips. I plant 1/2 acre of autumn buffet in august and they really hit it hard after the first frost. I may try to broadcast the beans, I have about 25-30 lbs. of them but I'm a little nervous about not covering them enough to germinate.
Thanks for all the info everyone. if this works out good this year I will buy real world RR soybeans next year. some of my friends plant the forage soybeans from blue seal and have good luck, not many places to buy stuff like that around here without the high cost of shipping from online purchases.
We stopped planting soybeans;the deer eat them as fast as they come up.Local farmers lost 80% of hundreds of acres.Walk behind planter is a waste of time(I have one),that is a garden tool not a food plot tool.
These were planted 16 days ago. Broadcasted, covered by ATV pulling a 8'X4' drag harrow, timed right before some good rains.
Habitat for Wildlife, I am going to try the broadcast, my buddy has a drag I can borrow to go over them after. How much did you fertilize? thanks again.
This is slightly more than .75 acres and I broadcasted 500 lbs of triple 13 before tilling.
Best bet is to get a soil test.
Chicken manure isn't practical with the amount of equipment involved. Either way, it sure will grow a bean! If you pile it in a field, they will come back and eat the dirt long after the pile is gone!
Habitat for Wildlife, I did a little experiment, I did half the field in 15 inch rows then broadcasted the rest and dragged that part to see what does better, lots of rain here so I had to get it done, another few days of rain on its way.
Keep us posted crowny. Thanks.
Wow 500 lbs is a lot of fertilizer I use 150 lbs triple 13 super rainbow and it works great. I also get a soil test and that is what it recommends. Good luck Lewis
An awful lot I agree. Let's see if the beans keep up with the grazing. The potassium and phosphorus will remain in the soil so it will be there when I plant the rye clover mix into the beans this Fall.
Mine are on 30” rows and spaced approximately 7 plants per foot.
I went with Liberty Link beans this year, to try and get handle on the pigweed/waterhemp weed issues that were getting very difficult to control here. I put down a pre emergent (Enlite) then sprayed the Liberty a few weeks ago. I was extremely pleased with the results of the pre emergent. In fact, I really thought about not even spraying the Liberty when I did, due to extremely minimal weed issues in my standing beans, save for the rye that didn’t get killed when I tilled the field in the spring, before planting. I’m just now starting to see some broadleaf weeds and some grasses as well. I’m gonna spray Liberty this afternoon. It’s supposed to get into the low 90s and light winds, which is ideal for this herbicide. From what I’ve read and been told by my ag guy, Liberty can be kind of finicky. Ideally, it needs to be roughly at least 75 degrees out, dry, and a minimum of 4 hrs of good, warm temps for it to work the best. They also recommend a higher rate of water coverage per acre. I’m spraying 15 gal/acre.
They look outstanding!
What size drill you using? That was not no-till?
I bought a JD 7000 6 row planter a couple of years ago. I had been wanting to get a decent one forever, but I’m a tightwad, so I kept my eyes open for a good deal on one. Took me 3 years, but finally pulled the trigger on this one. Fixed a few little minor things on it, and it works great now. It’s not a no till unit, but I could put some no till coulters on it.
The dead weeds that you can see sticking up in the beans pic, is the rye that didn’t get killed when I initially worked the ground up before planting.
This is the rig that I used before I bought the JD planter. An old International planter that I used for probably 8-10 years. I bought it from a farmer that converted it from a 4 row 38” planter into a 6 row 30” one. He did a great job and would have put MacGyver to shame.
How many acres of beans Troy, how many acres in total food plots, not agriculture.
Looks good sir!
I also went with Liberty beans this year because if water hemp and ragweed issues last year.
Very pleased with the results (very similar to T-Roy’s) thus far. Although I will incorporate the pre emergent next year
I will spray one more time with Liberty the second or third week of July and then overseed like crazy with brassicas in August
Final step in the Bowhunters Buffet will be to overseed winter rye and oats the first week of September.
(I am in west central MN)
Do you have a picture? Kind of curious how dense your beans are. Will the brassica have enough sunlight? The rye gets seeded when the beans are turning, but was wandering about the brassica. Thanks!
I went with liberty beans and corn last year. My advice is don’t let the weeds get more than 3-5 inches before spraying. Also, 2 spraying a few weeks apart may be necessary. That water hemp is hard to control. I hope the fields get dry enough to spray this week. 9.5 inches of rain over the past 2 weeks has all local crops looking sad in southeast Illinois
OK guys, I got equipment/plot envy!
It works so keep doing what you are doing!
Here's the beans from above.
Frank....I’ve only got about 4 acres in beans this year (in 3 different plots) I have about 15-16 acres total of plots, varying from clover, corn, beans, buckwheat (which is a new one for me this year), brassicas, cereal grains and winter peas.
BOHUNTER09.....that’s what my farmer buddy told me as well, about not letting the weeds get too tall. I’ll most likely, spray the beans again before they canopy. We’ve been wet here as well, but nearly as bad as some places, thankfully. There’s places that the farmers probably won’t get anything planted this year.
Rod......That is one IMPRESSIVE atv disc!! I started off with a little atv disc, a 4’ drag harrow and this cultipacker. I’m very fortunate in that I live right in the heart of ag country. The farming equipment keeps getting bigger and bigger all the time, so the smaller stuff that is perfect for food plots can be bought at farm sales and consignment auctions around here pretty cheap sometimes, almost scrap iron prices oftentimes.
Mark.....you’d better get those fences up!
Thanks Troy. One half of an old drag set and I took the plasma cutter to it last fall and now is an ultra modern notched disc.
I tried broadcasting peas two years ago and nothing came of them.
Here’s my most sophisticated piece of equipment. An old PTO driven tiller that I added an engine, tires and tongue for pulling.
Now THAT’S impressive!! Red Green would be proud of ya! I especially like the flagging tape so you’re OSHA compliant! ;>}
Here is a pic from last year of brassicas, overseeded into beans in early August (MN) This was on 30" rows. I sprayed Gly about 10 days prior to get any weeds/grasses knocked out before the following steps.
Ideally, fertilize with about 100 lbs of 46-0-0 and 150lbs of 19-19-19 right before a rain, BEFORE canopy. Then, right after the rain, overseed the brassicas AND drive a four wheeler down the bean rows getting good seed to soil contact.
This system works very well but you have to do it well before canopy so enough sunlight gets to the seeds/soil.
Hope this helps
Last year, I did this on 12 acres. In light of our very high deer densities, I needed a way to "double the tonnage per acre" to provide enough food beyond the end of the season (12/31/18).
It took me about 1 1/2 days but the deer absolutely love it as it gives them ultimate variety...especially after the winter rye and oats are broadcast in early September.
The winter rye grows down to 34 degrees so it stays green late into the year and is the first thing to green up in the spring (about 3 weeks before the alfalfa greens ups).
Soybeans look great.
I have been looking for quite awhile and I would love to have one like yours, especially with the fertilizer boxes.
Here in Nebraska, I could get a 4 row planter in working order for $2,500 to a really good one for $4,000. I would be a buyer at half that price so I probably will be waiting awhile.
How big a tractor do you use to pull the 6 row? I have a 45 hp with front wheel assist.
Osceola, your 45 hp will handle a 6 row just fine. My 40 hp does a 4 row easily
Osceola....I use either my 4020 or my 2010 JD, which is approximately a 40hp. Like BOHUNTER09 stated, your tractor would have no issues at all. You’re about right in the ballpark on your planter prices, but, occasionally I’ll see one cheaper than that. I picked up my 6 row on Craig’slist for $2,400, then put another $400-$500 into it. Like I said, I watched and looked for about 3 years before I bought mine. I got lucky, too!
Mark..... Looks like a smorgasbord for sure! Last year, I tried to broadcast some brassicas into my beans, but the broadleaf herbicide I had sprayed had too much residual in the soil, so they never grew. I’m hoping to get some growth out of them this year, though! I probably won’t be able to drive through them with my atv, but, hopefully there will be enough moisture to get some of them to sprout.
I was able to get my liberty beans and corn sprayed yesterday. Sunny today so I should get good action
Thanks Mark! You guys with drills and planters obviously can be more creative. Broadcasting beans I don't think I would get enough sunlight to plant brassica in July. But I like to learn, so thank you again! And, your plots look great!
I suspect you are correct about broadcast beans and limited sunlight. In that case, I would till a strip of the beans and plant brassicas....a thought.