Mathews Inc.
Diamond hone
Contributors to this thread:
Scoot 03-Jun-19
ohiohunter 03-Jun-19
GhostBird 03-Jun-19
Scoot 03-Jun-19
TD 03-Jun-19
Ucsdryder 03-Jun-19
Bou'bound 04-Jun-19
ohiohunter 04-Jun-19
From: Scoot
I've got my dad's old diamond hone that im using to sharpen VPAs. I've used it before for broadheads, but mostly for sharpening knives and it's worked great. However, I couldn't get a decent edge on the VPAs for anything last night. I'm confused! Do diamond hones wear out? It honestly looks as good as new. Thoughts?

From: ohiohunter
Do you use oil on it? The oil will help keep the pores from getting clogged.

From: GhostBird
I don't think they wear out (???). Try very light strokes for the final edge. I follow up with an Arkansas Stone after the diamond hone and then strop on leather, but you should be able to get a good edge with just the diamond hone. Try light strokes to finish the edge.

From: Scoot
Thanks guys. Ohiohunter, I actually use a little bit of water with it. With all of my other wet stones I use oil, but the instructions for the diamond hone said to use a little water.

Ghostbird, I start with what I would call medium-light strokes and finish with light strokes. After that it's a strop. I didn't bother with the strop last night since it wasn't even close to sharp enough to bother. It's worked before, but the edges seem duller than heck after this time. I have no doubt it's operator error, just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong or different. Dunno...

From: TD
3 blade heads? Light strokes x2. Most folks don't go light enough from what I have seen. By light I mean basically just the weight of the head on the surface and your hand just moves the head.

Yes, just water for diamond stones. Wash it first with a light soap and water and maybe a 3-m pad, rinse, dry it well if you're going to store it. Most folks will feel the difference a clean diamond stone makes right away. A few drops of water now and then when sharpening, wiping with a fine cloth in between.

A sharpie marker and a magnifying glass can help you tell if you are sharpening "to the edge". If you aren't going all the way to the very edge on both sides you aren't going to get it sharp as you want. If you find you haven't taken it to the edge yet you need to remove a lot of material to get there. Use a coarser grit to "shape" the edge. I woudn't even start on the finer grits until I had flat shiny metal all the way to the edge. A waste of time trying to shape an edge with finer grits.

I use a big ol 11" stone for these and lots of room to stroke em..... IMO a VERY light circular motion works best on the 3 blade heads, catching two blade sides at a time from multiple angles. Count your stokes before rotating sides. Try to imagine only the weight of the blade on the stone for pressure.

Diamond tools don't so much "wear" out as the diamonds can be chipped and damaged with pressure, impact and heat. On most diamond tools such as concrete/stone cutting wheels the "matrix" or the material the diamonds are impregnated in is what wears and exposes new undamaged diamonds. Matching the "matrix" to the material being cut is important for those tools under power, heat, abrasion and stress. IMO a diamond stone used correctly by hand would likely last a lifetime.... or 3....

From: Ucsdryder
I used to shoot Montecs and quit for that reason. I could never get them sharp enough.

From: Bou'bound
04-Jun-19 throwing a sledge hammer through it

From: ohiohunter
I'd opt for a flint bh over a piece of pot metal montec!

  • Sitka Gear