Initial setup had me tearing left (9 o'clock) with both bare shaft and fletched arrow (and pretty significantly). As cam lean was adjusted, the tear lessened with both but turned counter-clockwise. I got the bare shaft to a perfect bullet hole, but the fletched shaft is now tearing just a tad towards 7 o'clock.
What's my next step? Usually I adjust my rest from here, I just want to get you guy's opinions before I start messing with it more.
If I adjust my rest and get BHs and FPs hitting in the same spot I suppose it doesn't matter? Should I keep checking the bare shaft through paper or just move on? Am I to the point where I can just adjust my rest and get the fletched arrow shooting properly through paper or what would you guys do?
Thanks in advance,
Ike
I also figured that if I had fletching contact with the rest, that I'd be tearing up, not down.
I'm not that far off - my tear is now less than an inch. I'm thinking my next step is to raise my rest a tad. What do you think?
If you can get the bare shaft to group with the fletched field tips at 30, virtually any broadhead of similar weight will stack right in there too.
Shooting form is as critical to tuning as bow adjustments, IMO.
Matt
You can force field-tipped and broadhead-tipped arrows to group together at 40, but they *may* still have the same erratic flight characteristics. When a bare-shaft groups the same as either one of those at 30-plus, then you know your bow is tuned.
Matt
My BHs were hitting right of FPs if I remember correctly so I moved my rest incrementally right and it helped, but I went all the way and FPs and BHs never got together.
I went back to zero and started moving it left and BHs and FPs are now hitting together, but hitting impacting the target at different ranges and I think (need to shoot a bit more) that the farther I get from the target, my BHs are hitting farther and farther to the right.
Suggestions?
Suggest making changes to the yolk to move the broadheads in the direction of the fields points.
For example, broadheads hit right of the field points, add twist to the left yokes or remove from the right.
If you have a draw board k would time the rest to come up with about .75" of draw left.
*Edit-. I see it is a new rest too.
What rest were you using before?
But anyways, I put it back to centershot and adjusted the yolks like Russell said and FPs and unvented BHs are now impacting identically out to 45 yards.
Thanks so much everyone. Thanks Russell.
Ike
Here's the PM I sent Ike a week or so ago.
Here's some pointers I'd like to offer:
Make sure your QAD cord is tied in between 4.5 - 5" below the rest. (per OEM voice tech spt guidance).
Use a Spott Hogg Laser tool to initially set your cam lean. Bowtech has pictures where the bench setup for each model bow. This really helped me. Also, Bowtech has some fairly new Youtube instructional videos (Dogg).
My basic set-up tuning consists of: 1) Verify string and cables are correct length. 2) Rough set timing. Cables close I can get to between the two dots. 3) Rough set cam lean. Use laser alignment tool. 4) Fine tune cam timing so stops hit the same. (ok I have been informed to have top cam touch stop 1/16-1/32" prior to bottom stop).
Adjust rest so arrow is centered on burger hole, level, and center shot centered.
Tie-in nock sets (top and bottom the same number of knots), then add D-loop.
Make sure you don't have nock pinch (nocks not too tight). Nocks hold the arrow when bow is held with arrow vertical, but arrow doesn't hold the bow. (trad setup, ref Byron Nelson)
I currently don't papertune. Just shoot field points at 20 yds and adjust sights. Then BH tune for same impact. Move out in 10 yard increments to max distance you are accurate.
Index each arrow with the stiffest side all facing up when building my arrows.
Hope this helps a bit.
