AAE pro max vane guys.....
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
We've been messing with the max stealth vanes. The area in which we live it's tricky to get aae stuff quickly, so I began research on adhering. We always run wraps. Clean wraps with rubbing alcohol. We use a bitzenburger jig.
Clean the vanes with a q tip soaked in acetone. Be sure to really clean the base of the vane. We used gorilla Super glue with the blue top and ran a bead in the middle of the v (base of the fletch) We made sure the fletch contacted the arrow thoroughly and held it for 60 seconds before removing jig. After 24 hours u won't b able to pull them off. If u have access... the aae wipes, primer pen and glue, and follow their procedure it too will work. We've had excellent success with the method I explained. Good luck 2 u.
Here is the finished product
Here is the finished product
I shoot the max stealth with wraps. Use the primer pen and AAE glue. Never once had a fletching come loose. I shoot FMJs and it’s easy to take a razor blade and scrape off the wraps and have a perfect bare shaft. I tried a lot of different vanes with 3 or 4 fletch combos. 3 max stealth shot the best for me, providing the tightest groups at long range and in the wind.
I used their glue and pen on a bohning wrap and they are welded on! You could literally pull on them with a plier and the wrap would tear before the vane would let go. I shot through a bag target with mine and they stayed on lol. One thing to consider with the small fletch is your setup needs to be tuned well. The better your bow shoots a bare shaft the less your vanes will have to work to straighten the arrow. Bigger vanes will always shoot better on an setup that’s not tuned well. Or if you should torque your bow in the heat of the moment. I’ve heard some top shooters can get a bare shaft to hit at 80 yards with perfect setup. I’ve found bareshaft tuning to 30-40 yards is sufficient for these small vanes with a helical 4 fletch.
The primer pen is key. I use the primer pen and super glue gel and they are stuck on real wel
Follow the instructions and you will not have any issue
When I went to a lower profile four fletch a couple years ago, I did quite a bit of searching on various vanes. Some were eliminated just because I didn't want to have to jump hoops and buy proprietary glues and cleaners just to get them to stick. One that got punted was the AAE's simply because of the experience's posted above. And some of the vanes were simply too low of a profile.
I ended up with the Duravane Fusion-XII (black base) . I sand and clean my Axis shafts with 99.9% alcohol and the vane bases also. I usually use old fashioned Fletchtite Platinum glue on a Bitz jig and never have a vane come off. I have used super glues, but find that in about a year some are easy to pull off.
And I don't use wraps. One more step and when one vane gets damaged, you pretty much have to replace them all, because you have to cut the wrap and replace it.
I use the AAE Max Stealths also. The primer pen and making sure you don't put to much glue and they stay on. There also very quiet.
A lot of money wrapped up in getting the vanes to stick. It’s actually genius. Of course they can get them to stick with super glue gel like blazers do, but why would you do that when you can charge someone for a primer pin and then your proprietary glue! Genius! I’ll stick to my 2.99 super glue and 15 dollar per 100 blazers.
I’m shooting Pro Max 4 fletch and I don’t use any of that stuff. Vanes stick fine.
LIGHTLY sand end of shaft with fine grit paper to get that shine off. Clean shaft and base of vane with acetone. Glue with Saunders NPV. Beyond that, I really haven’t seen this set up be more accurate. It does create more drag, because at longer distances 3 fletch will impact higher but groups are just as tight with 3 fletch as 4 fletch.