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Tail hi - lo Fix?
Read in Bowhunter Magazine something I had not heard before. You can adjust tail high or tail low flight (while paper tuning) simply by adjusting limb bolts.
For tail high you loosen the upper OR tighten the lower bolt
For tail low tighten the upper or loosen the lower
That would sure be easier than moving d-loop or even making rest height adjustments.
Have others out there used this approach successfully in the past. Are there any unintended consequences of doing it this way.
By tiller tuning your just moving the nock height. While it’s easy to adjust nock height and travel with a turn of the limb both there are some negatives to it. First enough tiller off set will mess with your grip, from high to low depending on your tiler adjustment. It will also play havoc if you get any cable stretch at all. As now you not only have to readjust the cable you will have to reset your tiller back to zero. Further more many nock high or low tears with some cams are coming from Cam Timing. A tiller adjustment will do squat to adjust this. In short this a half ass way to adjust your nock height and travel. They must be running out of things to write about.
There are way better options for making the adjustment especially with modern rests and bows, both have plenty of room on both the shelf and the rest.
Set your rest with the center of the shaft in the center of the burger hole, tie your nock set 1/16 high. Tie your loop. Then adjust your rest up or down depending on the tear your get and the correction you need.
Thanks so much. No wonder I never heard of this as a preferable approach
A clear, concise explanation from a knowledgeable source.....thanks Trial.
Thank Falcon but that addresses point of impact adjustments and not how the arrow impacts that point. Different issues.
So question… When you run out of ability to adjust your rest to the right because the Brodhead blades will hit your riser but your broadheads are hitting left 2 inches, I’m assuming your adjustments should shift to yolk tuning? Is that correct?
It does sound a lot like jacking up a corner on the foundation of your house to get one picture to hang level....
So when you guys paper-tune... how do you know that your arrow is still straight and level ten yards farther down-range???
Guess I’m glad that bare-shafting is working out for me....
Justin, I will never move my rest that much off the center shot. I will always either Shim, yoke tune and or adjust the load on the cables before I move my arrow rest off the center shot. When I do at last move my rest it will be a very small increment....at the very most 1/8 ...in small increments up till that point.
If you need to move it more that then you have underlying issue that needs to be corrected before any rest adjustments.
"So when you guys paper-tune... how do you know that your arrow is still straight and level ten yards farther down-range???"
You shoot paper at multiple distances if you use paper as a tuning method.
At least 8 out of 10 tech articles I read in magazines are either not complete, or not correct at all. It's a shame it has come to that but it has. There are still good tech writers but, if you don't "know" then you can't tell which are good and which are not.
"Tiller tuning" works pretty good on an older single cam bow (as long as the cable length is correct). and... Before we had bow press' at home, it was the poor-mans way to compensate for one cable being longer than the other on a 2-cam bow. "It" can still be beneficial if one of your limbs is weaker than the other slightly (pretty advanced tuning here though). The writer of this article must either an old-school 2-cammer, or he heard about this from an old 2-cammer. Back in the days of FastFlight strings, when your tail started moving up or down, we would just adjust with the limb bolts (almost a weekly occurrence during league shooting). Now days we have quality strings that do not creep like that anymore. Take the time now to set it correct to begin with and it should stay that way throughout an entire season.
Stick n sting, So question… When you run out of ability to adjust your rest to the right because the Brodhead blades will hit your riser but your broadheads are hitting left 2 inches, I’m assuming your adjustments should shift to yolk tuning? Is that correct? If you move your rest to the right for broadheads impacting left, you'll be chasing your tail forever. Broadheads to left indicates a tail right condition at launch, so move the rest to the left or twist up the right yoke(s).
Here yah go. Gillingham knows his stuff. https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=tightropetb&p=Broadhead+tuning%2F+Gillingham#id=1&vid=8a22f1e7483b02303b278dc09fb6bb01&action=click