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Finished a drop point hunter
Finished this knife for a hunter just down the road from me. Made the grip quite large and left a little square as he is about 6’6” with huge hands. I was please with how it came out. The blade is Elmax stainless at 61.5-62rc and is about .010 thick behind cutting edge. Used stabilized walnut for handles and orange Cerakote on back of blade for highlights. Anyhow... thanks for looking and all be safe in the new year.
I love those type blade designs and that’s a damn fine looking knife RJ ! I’m not familiar with that steel, how easy is it to sharpen ?
You are certainly gifted with creative talent man
Good luck, Robb
That's a beautiful knife, nice work! I love those blacktails you got - seeing them brings back a lot of memories.
Outstanding. Very envious of your talent!
That's really a nice looking knife. Great talent and skill you have there.
Question. Are you grinding your own blades, and do you work with any other steels than Elmax?
Great looking knife. You are talented.
You pound that out or was it a blank you finished? You put what in for the red lines Plastic or fiberglass?
Beautiful work! What is “stabilized” walnut? Does that mean it’s been seasoned or something completely different?
Means they vacum bagged it and introduced resin in the vacum to harden the wood.
There are other methods to stabilize wood.
This commin when using soft, compromised or soakted wooda in bows or knives.
Beautiful knife! Something like that I would be proud to hand down to my kids.
Beautiful work! Curious approx how many hours does that take to make?
Sorry guys. Been working on knives. Will get everything answered. Is my second job... making knives that is. *How hard to sharpen? Is not that bad considering. Most difficulty sharpening is because the blade thickness behind the edge is too thick. For example this is .010 and the steel in this is tough enough to take that. Some knive you buy can be 0.20 or 0.030 and requires twice the material to remove making though to sharpen. Also quality steel/ heat treat will allow that fine apex to sharpen better.
GG- I do grind my own blades. I buy the steel in bars (will attach pics) and cut/grind em out. I do all my own heat treating also and currently have good heat treats I have tested for: Elmax (to run over RC 61.5), A2, W2, O1, S35VN, CPM3v and 1095.
HH- I don’t pound them out (forge the), I buy steel in bars and make my blades from that. Right now I value my elbows and unless I want to make Damascus I probably won’t start forging. The colored highlights in the handles are a type of glass board Called G10 or fR4.
T-Roy Stabilized is the wood has had all the moisture removed (heated to evaporate out) and placed under vacuum while submerged in a very thin resin to pull out all air and replace with a clear resin. Then is cooked to harden. That way the wood can not take up moisture and swell/crack or move over time.
That knife probably took me 20-30 hours to make. Most of that is in the hand work and sanding the blade perfect. I am not good enough on a grinder to get perfect on machine so do all my finish sanding by hand. Also prefer the lengthwise lines versus perpendicular of machine.
Thank you so very much for all the kind remarks. This is a hobby I started this time last year as I was complaining about my knives I own and wife told me to make a better one. So I started at it. Been at it 11 months so far and every waking moment not working my day job is spent making knives, testing heat treats and learning to art. Thank you guys so much for the compliments it is humbling and will share some more of my blades I work on.
Here is a W2 blade I sanded out and etched yesterday.