Grip and consistency
Equipment
You have a link to that video? Videos will no longer load in the threads on my computer.
Thanks
Can you slap a Shrewd on there and call it good? Could only imagine it would be worse from a treestand while hunting? Also, I used a bent cable rod on my Elite to help with torque and that did help.
Ditch the paper and go straight to bareshaft tuning.
Sounds like some spine tuning is in order.
Here’s a simple, inexpensive, yet extremely effective, option. Check out the “True Shot Coach Training Aid” by Neet. It basically forces you into a proper grip regardless of what bow you shoot. After a few sessions with it, I’ve been able to maintain a proper grip several years later. Amazon offers them for $19.99, and Lancaster Archery has them for $16.99.
Impact vs fletched at 20 to start is what you need. You don't have to bother with paper. Load equivalent weight plastic trimmer wire into the nock of the bareshaft.
For a tail right you moved the LTR to the left? I thought you would add tension by moving it to the right??? Or am I thinking wrong?
Jeff,
That kinda sucks you had to change to an unorthodox grip to get a decent tune. The Ritual was one of the bows I was considering testing for my new purchase this year. Now, I'm not so sure.
Matt
I hear you. I've always put the tips of my index and middle finger lightly on the leading edge of the riser. Thumb and other 2 fingers not touching at all. I don't think I'd like the grip shown in the video.
Back when I part-timed in a bow shop to earn their sponsorship in 3D tournaments, setting up and helping guys tune their bows was all I did. The most common form-related tuning problem I saw was guys trying to shoot too much draw length. It caused them to shoot with a fully extended bow arm, instead of with a slight bend at the elbow. That would cause their follow-thru to swing left (right-handed shooter), instead of straight forward as it should. No amount of tuning would correct for that.
Matt
Yeah the first time I sent a VPA 150 non vented downrange I nearly had to duck.
I had a similar issue with my Elite. After broadhead tuning my rest was out of centershot which I am fine with as I am getting perfect holes in bareshaft paper tune. My Elite liked weaker spined arrows, luckily I have every arrow known to man...lol
Ooooph...that brings back memories of when I'd a get a new bow every year thru sponsors. I'd tinker with my setup all winter, spring, and right up to hunting season. Finally I realized the peace-of-mind of finding a setup that works, and sticking with it. That's why I'm still shooting my old Drenalin. Every year, a few weeks before hunting season, I pull the ol' girl out to check the tune out to 30 yards with a bare shaft. I haven't had to change a thing on that bow for years. Not even the string set.
Good luck with your new bow Jeff. The more I read about the new models, the more convinced I become that the technology really hasn't changed all that much.
Matt
Matt,
I hear ya about new bows. I bought a 2018 Hoyt Hyperforce in April of '18. Nice bow, draws nice, quiet, quick, not too heavy. And an absolute *****r *****r to keep tuned.
That said, this season I took out my 2000 Mathews FeatherMax. In the 20 seasons I've had it, the strings have been replaced 4X, and I use to shoot it alot. Still have the same NAP1000 shoot thru rest. Still shoots Stingers & Tricks with my field tips out to fifty yards. She's just a stone cold quick quiet killing bitch!! Lol. I'd like to say I drew blood with it this year, but it was not to be. Love that bow almost as I love my LX.
I’ve owned four Elite bows and used a Shrewd grip on all of them. Probably too beefy for some but I like them.
Yeah you're pretty much just going to get a good workout and maybe some frustration trying to tune with the inconsistent grip. You may get her close but close sometimes doesn't cut it "out there".
If it was my bow; I'd add the grip, put rest back into recommend offset, start with the 340s at 20 bareshaft vs fletched. I'd go from there whether more or less spine, shimming, limb flipping, cable offsets, etc.
I honestly think the grip is half the battle with a new bow and either you adapt to it or put on a known grip which may require only minimal wrist angle changes.
I switched to this grip method several years ago regardless of bow I shoot. Works well for me.
I've been preaching and teaching that grip shown in the video for years.
Once mastered, you won't need to consciously tuck those fingers. They will just naturally lay limp. The key to a good grip is not using ANY muscles from the elbow down. Bone on bone only.
You're going to put a grip on there whether you like it or not. Do it.
Hey just kidding. Good luck and I hope it works out!
