Since I got my new Elite Ritual 33, Ive been struggling in tuning with right tears, even after doing a indoor 'French Tune' .... so I began to research this, and it seems Elites with some shooters are very touchy in grip pressure/position, etc. .. Ive been using the same grip Ive used for 30+ years and would get a tear right in paper as Ive tried to tune the bow ...... shimming would be usually be one fix, moving the rest out of centershot may also work, I dont like doing either and the bow already has the smallest spacer to the right side moving the cams to the right ....so after reading article after article/thread on this, many agree that the grip on Elite Ritual 30's, 33's and 35's is critical to some .... so I found this vid and here are the results in the paper .... it may also help with other brands and shooters who are having the same issues ..... good luck ....
RT, that will be my next attempt ... I did try bare shaft last weekend (20 yds) and my BS was 6+ inches left and tail angled right (same as the bad tear) ... I grew frustrated and quit shooting for the day ... then found this vid ... .... I'm gonna try paper and bare shaft in a bit indoors....
Here’s a simple, inexpensive, yet extremely effective, option. Check out the “True Shot Coach Training Aid” by Neet. It basically forces you into a proper grip regardless of what bow you shoot. After a few sessions with it, I’ve been able to maintain a proper grip several years later. Amazon offers them for $19.99, and Lancaster Archery has them for $16.99.
here is the results of the bare shaft .. the high rips were form errors ... it was a small rip tail left .. I tweeked the roller guard (LTR) a smidgen to the left, and got the results I wanted ..... center shot is still 13/16, arrow level (90 degree) ... never had to touch the rest ... now to put in thousands of shots with the correct grip so it becomes second nature and ingrained in my subconscience ;0) .... a long way to go till next season and shooting FP's and BH's ... I'm content .... for now .... ;0)
Yea, I moved the LTR to the right for the tail right I was getting with fletched, but the bare shafts was a tad tail left after that move ... fletched can mask minor flight issues even though they looked good and I may have over corrected a smidgen to the right.... so I tweeked it a smidgen left and got the bullet holes with bares shafts .... my problem was my grip and a little fine tuning..... you cant hide flaws in form or with the bow set up with bare shafts.. I'm learning that
GG, there are some who wont have the problems I did, every shooter is different as are bows ..... before you purchase, shoot it and find out, you wont know till you do ..... I am really please as to how smooth it is, how it holds and how accurate it is .... many years back I shot with the style of grip that is shown in the vid... it not that foreign to me and I actually like it .... the bow seems to react better with it .......
I hear you. I've always put the tips of my index and middle finger lightly on the leading edge of the riser. Thumb and other 2 fingers not touching at all. I don't think I'd like the grip shown in the video.
Back when I part-timed in a bow shop to earn their sponsorship in 3D tournaments, setting up and helping guys tune their bows was all I did. The most common form-related tuning problem I saw was guys trying to shoot too much draw length. It caused them to shoot with a fully extended bow arm, instead of with a slight bend at the elbow. That would cause their follow-thru to swing left (right-handed shooter), instead of straight forward as it should. No amount of tuning would correct for that.
my next 'test' will be to try the 300's (been shooting the Velocity XT 340's with a 50 gr insert/100 gr tips-BH's (150 grs up front).. .. I have the 20 gr. GT FACT weights and tool coming from Lancaster to try in the 300's ( which I have 10), It will lower my FOC a tad ( not much) but I want to try a stiffer shaft for crap and giggles ... the 300 is actually the recommended shaft with 150 grs up front, with the 20 gr FACT weights, I'll be 132 grs up front with the stiffer shaft ... hell, its winter, time to try different things ... ;0)
I had a similar issue with my Elite. After broadhead tuning my rest was out of centershot which I am fine with as I am getting perfect holes in bareshaft paper tune. My Elite liked weaker spined arrows, luckily I have every arrow known to man...lol
Ooooph...that brings back memories of when I'd a get a new bow every year thru sponsors. I'd tinker with my setup all winter, spring, and right up to hunting season. Finally I realized the peace-of-mind of finding a setup that works, and sticking with it. That's why I'm still shooting my old Drenalin. Every year, a few weeks before hunting season, I pull the ol' girl out to check the tune out to 30 yards with a bare shaft. I haven't had to change a thing on that bow for years. Not even the string set.
Good luck with your new bow Jeff. The more I read about the new models, the more convinced I become that the technology really hasn't changed all that much.
yea, I have 400's, 340's and 300 in the GT Velocity XT series so I can play with different spines .... the 340's are good, will the 300's be better at my 65lbs/30" draw and 132 grs up front ?? ... the 400's would be weak I think ....only shooting will tell .....
I hear ya about new bows. I bought a 2018 Hoyt Hyperforce in April of '18. Nice bow, draws nice, quiet, quick, not too heavy. And an absolute *****r *****r to keep tuned.
That said, this season I took out my 2000 Mathews FeatherMax. In the 20 seasons I've had it, the strings have been replaced 4X, and I use to shoot it alot. Still have the same NAP1000 shoot thru rest. Still shoots Stingers & Tricks with my field tips out to fifty yards. She's just a stone cold quick quiet killing bitch!! Lol. I'd like to say I drew blood with it this year, but it was not to be. Love that bow almost as I love my LX.
Yeah you're pretty much just going to get a good workout and maybe some frustration trying to tune with the inconsistent grip. You may get her close but close sometimes doesn't cut it "out there".
If it was my bow; I'd add the grip, put rest back into recommend offset, start with the 340s at 20 bareshaft vs fletched. I'd go from there whether more or less spine, shimming, limb flipping, cable offsets, etc.
I honestly think the grip is half the battle with a new bow and either you adapt to it or put on a known grip which may require only minimal wrist angle changes.
RT, from my above post .. " I tweeked the roller guard (LTR) a smidgen to the left, and got the results I wanted ..... center shot is still 13/16, arrow level (90 degree) ... never had to touch the rest " .. the rest is STILL at the 13/16" centershot which is the recommended centershot by Elite ...it was really a simple fix, just going back to grip style I used years ago ... that is a very repeatable and comfortable style of grip on the bow, and as I shoot I find it very accurate with the Ritual 33 ....