I expect--One turn of the bolts usually increases/decrease the poundage by 2.5- 3 pounds. Your bow is 60-70 pound range. And it might be already set at 60#, lower limits, per the previous owner.
May I suggest getting a new string that is one inch shorter (55"). This will pre-load the limb and remove the "first inch" of the draw cycle. Effectively lowering the peak weight by about 6-8#. This will also shorten the draw length but, not an issue. Draw modules are easily adjusted.
All of the ones I have reduced the draw weight on have been originally set with the limbs cranked all the way down to maximum draw weight at the factory, and the limbs were bottomed out in the limb pockets and could not be increased in draw weight over the original setting, except one PSE from back in the very early days of cam bows. Looking at the pic above of the limbs position in the pocket, it sure appears to be well off the maximum already. Do both limbs appear to have that much room under the limb for tightening?
I improvised a draw weight scale by tossing rope over a tree limb and hanging a five-gallon bucket from the string and filling it with gravel until it pulled through the breakover, then weighing the bucket of gravel on the bathroom scales. Five gallons of water only weighs forty pounds so you need something heavier if using that handy size bucket . It's slow and a bit of work just to find out, but when you don't have access to a bow scale it's an accurate substitute method.
Of all the bows I've cranked down, only found one that couldn't be cranked all the way down to the point where I could actually disassemble it completely without using a press. I suspect the "Kids, don't try this at home!!" manufacturers warning are primarily for the benefit of the local pro shops who prefer to have you come in for their $ervice.
The ones I have taken apart like that have not been dramatic at all, just got looser until they came apart. It IS a very good idea to take pictures as you go if you disassemble one, as some things that look like they'd be completely simple to put back together aren't as simple as they looked when you're doing it.
When you think about it, unless there was some good reason for shorter ones, the limb bolts that are long enough to start without the limbs being in a press would be by far the easiest way to assemble the bow when it was made, so most are likely to be long enough to disassemble to the point of relaxing all tension without exploding into a bunch of flying parts.
But, this is free info from a non-professional amateur bow mechanic and one who admittedly has not worked on your make and model, so use your own judgment.
Oh, if you do take it all the way down to disassemble it, be sure to take a couple of pics of the way the string goes around the cams and anchors to them. It can be surprisingly easy to do that wrong and even have it look right until it's all back together and it draws very wrong.
It's not like taking your laptop or your cell phone apart. There's no magic stuff in there and the worst you can do is manage somehow to screw up a $25 bow, but it will likely survive and so will you, and you'll feel more confident about the next adjustment that needs to be made to it.
For $25, move it on to someone who can handle it. Take it from a guy who has had 2 shoulder surgeries, there are plenty of bad consequences to having too much bow besides it coming apart trying to get it to a weight you can shoot it. A 50# bow will kill most anything you are likely to go after, and you'll be able to do it comfortably and enjoy shooting the bow.
TMBB
